The head definitely must be removed in order to remove or install the engine mount. During my rebuild I forgot to install the mount, and I tried everything in the world to get that mount in there...no dice.

 

I just did this swap (donor 02 Taurus 3.0 DOHC) into a 2001 Tribute. I didn't have to pull any heads off the motors to get the Tribute(Escape) pass side motor mount that attaches in-between the heads onto the Ford donor block. I swapped the mount from the bad Tribute motor to the good (donor Ford) motor while they both were on my garage floor.

DH

 

2001 Escape xlt 4wd with 161,000 miles, engine blew and needs to be replaced.

Planning on doing the work myself with a mechanic friend. He started talking to a guy he works with and he has 2001 taurus 3.0l with transmission sitting in his shop covered for the last 10 years with only 30,000 miles. Said he kinda forgot about it. It was given to him from a fairly new taurus owner who didnt have insurance and totaled it. Asking $600 for both the motor and tranny.

Based on what ive read I have lucked out not only with the low mileage used motor but the price too.

about to start this project with someone experienced. He seems confident, i just need more reassurance this swap is going to work. i understand they are the exact same motors but a mount needs to be swapped. I really don't want to pull any heads off.

Do the wire harnesses match up? or do i need to grab it off the blown motor?

Any other advice or things to be prepared for going into it?

 

If you have read all the posts, which I would suggest you do, you get two different stories on the passenger side motor mount. It may be the mount varies with vintage, and some or one may be R&R w/o removing the head. I cannot say.
The front cover has to be switched, as the CKP position varies from about 10:00 o'clock to about 4:00 o'clock. The water pump moved from the front cover to the rear of the forward exhaust cam over time also. The AXOD or AXOD-E in the Taurus won't work unless you do a lot of finagling. I would doubt the mounts would match and bet the axles won't fit either. Cooling and linkage would be an additional problem along with finding a computer to run the dang thing. Good luck with that.
The wiring from the donor vehicle {Taurus} will not work, and maybe even the sensors would have to be swapped. IOW, you likely can't unplug the assembly line connector for the engine and plug the same connector on the new vehicle. Each sensor will have to be checked & wired up individually. I would suggest complete movement of sensors from the Escape to the replacement engine. I think the intake manifold up would have to be swapped also to work with throttle linkage and injector harness and COP wiring. Bare 3.0 block, w/o intake or exhaust, front cover swap, and then put it all back together with the recipient vehicle bits & pieces.
Others who have done the job will likely add more detail.
tom

 

I recently finished taking an engine from an 02' Taurus 3.0 and installing it into an 01' Mazda Tribute. I had no issues with the upper motor mount and didn't need to take the head(s) off. The Taurus doesn't use an upper mount like the Escape/Tributes do but the holes are in the block for the mount bolts on both Taurus and Escape blocks (the engines have the same block and head numbers.)

The P/S pump, alternator, and the motor mounts need to be swapped from your original Escape engine to the donor Taurus one. I also swapped the upper/lower intake, injectors, EGR tube/valve as well. I'm sure there may be other stuff as well.

The one point you need to address is make SURE you label the wiring to the coil-on-plugs!! When I was disconnecting the wiring from the original engine in my Tribute I laid the wiring aside and when I hooked everything back up you assume that the front 3 coil-on-plug wiring lays a certain way and that's the way they fit and attach to the coil on plugs.. Not true! It's as if Ford makes the middle front cylinder coil on plug harness too short. Anyhow, label them first otherwise you may mixup the front left and middle coil on plugs and get a bad misfire! I had to look at factory wiring diagrams to see which coil on plug harness went where. I've heard of others doing this as well so I didn't feel so bad. (not!!)

DH

P.S. I was able to remove/install the engine/trans assembly out the top. It IS tight but once you remove the radiator-A/C condenser, front bumper assembly, etc. it will come out and go back in. Ideally you're supposed to drop the engine out the bottom by dropping the subframe with everything still attached but I don't have a hoist yet and had to improvise.

Good luck!!

 

Just did the swap and didn't have to remove the head. Now that it's in it won't start. Need some help. Had fuel and spark but cranks but nothing. ANY help will be greatly appreciated. I need to get this thing going ASAP. Thanks in advance. BTW - 02 Taurs engine in a 01 Escape.

 

If you swapped the crank position sensor to the Escape position in the front cover, you needed to also move the toothed signal wheel to the other installation point. The holes in the wheel for mounting allow for two positions so the same part can be used in both models. At least that is what I understand.
tom

 

Thanks Tom! All that was done correctly. We think we have found the issue and will try tonight. Apparently there can be an issue with the security system. I found this online. The person who is actually doing this for me is a mechanic. He doesn't have the key fob to active/de-activate the PATS so I'm taking it over tonight and hopefully she fires up. I haven't seen anything about this issue with the swap but ours does have the security system. I'll post what we find out. Thanks again!

 

Vehicle is a 2001 Escape 4WD with a Duratec 3.0 on which the bottom end let go inexplicably. Lots of metal in the pan but still had oil pressure. Bad rod noise and screeching. Toast in any event.

Donor was a low mile 2001 Sable Duratec 3.0 from a reliable local salvage yard.

Swap took a while (about 15 hours by myself with no lift) but was not too hard. Here are some things to consider.

1. You will need to swap all of the following:

Upper intake
EGR
Timing chain cover and crank and cam sensors
Both exhaust manifolds
Oil pan
Oil pickup tube
Dipstick and tube
Crank signal wheel
Crank pulley

Of particular note:

I COULD NOT get the passenger engine mount out without removing the head on the old motor. No big deal if you're scrapping it. You CAN get the passenger mount back in on the new motor by grinding a little off the back passenger end of the mount and a tiny bit off the rear head by the valley. You can see where if you try and sneak it in. With a little work with a grinder, it just barely fit, but it DID fit.

Motor and trans assembly is much easier to remove from beneath than above. I did it without a lift by jacking up the front of the car on jackstands. Bottom of bumper needs to be 26 inches off the ground to allow sliding the motor out. I used an engine hoist to lower and raise the engine down through the engine bay.

If you do it this way, you do not need to remove the radiator or a AC condenser core. Note that it is very tight an takes some wiggling but I was able to do it myself. You may need to remove the water pump tensioner to get needed clearance. I did. Note also that the block and trans are pretty light permitting the use of ratchet straps to lift the motor. Makes positioning it much easier.

You do not need to break loose any of the ball joints to pull the axles. Just the two bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut. By turning the wheels to the left or right, you have enough room to pull each side axle.

Compared to a RWD swap, it's a pain in the neck. Compared to a FWD swap, it's about average.

As with all computer controlled cars, pay very close attention to all sensor leads and label EVERYTHING.

For me, it fired right up, ran fine and no check engine light.

For those of you thinking about this swap, it's not that hard, but you need to be patient and careful.

Thanks to all who posted to this thread. Your information was most helpful.

Steve2ManyBoats

 

Hey guys all this info has been very helpful to read.

Wanted to ask a question or two. My girlfriend currently forgot to check her oil and ran the 2006 tribute dry..... so as we all know replacement is now in order.

Will this work for the 2006 as well.... finding a 3.0 from a matching year taurus? Or does anyone have any insight to what could be done besides purchasing a escape motor for 1500 bucks.

I am mechanically inclined and have done engine swap a before.... however mostly on chevy and hot rods.... newer age mazda trips me up a little so just trying to get all the information I can if it's worth me to tackle or pay someone for their time.

Any info is much appreciated

 

Hello everyone I did this swap as well have a 03 Ford Escape I swap the motor with a 03 Ford Taurus engine both 3.0 duratec I did change the timing chain cover and I had the motor mount customized to fit without removing the heads I used my fuel rails and all the escape pulleys and oil pan and oil pump all the wiring is the escapes I have fuel and spark and as mentioned before it just cranks and won't start did I mess up the timing somehow I did put the sprocket from the escape in like it was said to do but I didn't mess with any timing so wondering if my timing is completely off or something of that kind any help will be considered right now my truck has been down for 3 months for this rebuild just so it won't start

 

Does it crank as if it has compression? If so, then you would likely want to check ignition timing.
I would squirt some fuel into the intake via a vacuum line, and crank to see if it is fuel or spark that is 'off'.
You have spark, so the computer knows 'where' the crankshaft is, and should create spark at the individual COP based on cam timing
Read here for caveats about timing stuff:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2005...the-ford-3-0l/
I did note in the Escape section: 'Be certain the exciter crank ring is indexed for this application.' in the section on "Front Covers"
The crank and cam sensors are where I would be looking.
tom