Hello guys/girls. I'v just installed a edlebrock intake 2171 non-egr and a edelbrock 1406 carb on my 351m. I'm having trouble finding info in the forums about the vacuum ports on the carb. Which of the two ports on the front of the carburator do I use and where do I hook/route them too?? Any help/info would be greatly appreciated.

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Simply use the Edelbrock carburator manual, easily found in the www ....
.... or here : http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1402.pdf

If you`re not familar with reading manuals : the port on the co-driver´s side (at a bit higher level) is timed vacuum and routes to the distributor when equipped with vacuum advance. the port on the driver´s side (lower level) is full vacuum, just block it. Good luck !

 

Thanks walkee, i finally found my answer over the weekend and this is how i hooked it up. I got it started yesterday, and now tring to tune the carb. I found the edelbrock owners manuel and looked at. Still reading and tring to figure everthing out. It idles ok I guess, maybe a little rough. But when I hit the gas (WOT) from idle speed I get a bad bog that almost kills the engine. I took it down the road and noticed it had no power at all. The exhaust dosnt sound right. By the way it is dualed out 2.5 in. pipes. It sounds like a dualed out V6 or something. With the engine off I checked to see if my accelerator pump was working. I hit the throttle linkage and see nothing in the carb, not a stream of gas no where. So does this mean my accelerator is bad or do i have something hooked up or not hooked up right? Thanks again

 

Well, sounds like a lack of fuel when pushing the pedal. Is this a new carburator ? Did the engine ran fine with the former carb ?

The 1406 has a electric choke. Be sure to hook a * + * wire from the black cylindric cover on the co-driver´s side of the carb to a ignition controlled source (15). If not, the engine always runs on "cold" condition what leads to excessive fuel consumption and bad throttle response. After doing this get the engine fully warm and check the two idle mixture screws. Turn them in completely and then back off 3 rotations, start adjusting from there.

Maybe open the carb cover and look for dirt in the bowls, check the needles for damages.

Lookin´at your pics the accelerator linkage is at it´s place. Hard to tell, maybe the rubber inside the acc. housing is damaged.

I see no EGR stuff on your engine. Be sure to have the ignition adapted to this fact. All this checks will cost you no money just some man power.

 

"sounds like a v6", sounds like timing issues to me, are you sure every spark plug is getting electricity? check every cable, the spark plugs and if everything checks your timing could be excessively retarded.

 

This is a used but in very good condition carb. The motor run like a top before I installed the intake and carb. The intake is non-egr also. I don't have the electric choke hooked up yet. Would it be ok to hook it to the alternator? No damage to the needles. Accelerator linkage is in second hole from the top. Also, when you say adapt the ignition to the non-egr, do you mean the timing?
Yesterday when i took it up the road I noticed it felt it had no compression coming back over a small hill. Before I could come over the hill in 3rd (manuel transmission) and the motor would hold the truck back, wouldn't have to use no brakes. Now when I come over the hill it speeds up a bit. Kind of like using a compression release on a 4-stroke dirtbike if that makes any since. I'll go check the plugs and wires.

Thanks guys for the replys and the info that you've given me.

 

Did you change anything else but the carb and intake ?
Watch for a proper seal of the intake, the front and rear "S" gaskets tend to become leaky and the engine gets wrong air.

Maybe you fitted the accelerator linkage too tight and the carb still gets fuel when you lift the pedal downhill? The engine moves a bit from "under load" to "no load", this might be enough to affect on a tight linkage.

Just an idea : shut down the engine while driving downhill and leave in gear ( if the traffic situation allows .....), when the truck slows down then the engine got to much fuel ......

 

Well I done some more adjusting with the idle screws like you said walkee, 3 turns out and then adjust from there. Its running way better now. Only thing is now, I've got a ping,ping,ping noise, almost like marbles in the carb, when Im in the really high rpm's. I'll search around in the forums and see if I can't find what the pinging is about. I also adjusted on my fast idle linkage and choke. I really don't know what I did but it is running alot better.

Could I have had a intake leak in the beginning and it finally sealed itself off?? I probably messed up using the "S" gaskets when putting the intake on. But I did use RTV sealant on and around the "S" gaskets, hope that dosn't hurt. Thanks again

 

Your pinging or pre-ignition could be caused by having no EGR valve now. It recirculated exhaust gases to cool off the combustion chambers allowing more timing to used. Now without one you will have higher temps and along with your carb issues it's started to ping, wich is very hard on your engine. You will have to retard your timing and make sure you have proper air/fuel ratios otherwise you could damage your engine. If I'm wrong about any of this please correct me.

 

Hey Fox (is this your name),

you made some improvements, that´s fine !

BALLAN is right about the EGR stuff, you must lower the ignition advance, pinging or pre-ignition can cause serious engine damages, especially at high rpms. Guess you pulled the distributor when changing the intake and carb.
Did you fit it again in exactly the same position ? Maybe you don´t know ?

If yo´re not handy with a stroboscope light to check the ignition try it manually by approximation: since the rotor turns counterclockwise loose the dizzy hold-down and turn the dizzy slightly clockwise. Memorize the starting position and go in steps of 5 deg. in a virtual 360 deg. circle. This should eliminate your pinging. And - don´t go under 2 turns at the idle screws, this can be too lean for your momentary setup.

BTW, don´t change more than one setting at a time, otherwise you get confused. Maybe write down your changes, it helps ..... :-)

For the intake leak : if you used RTV afterwards it should be OK when you did it with care .... but it looks like a mess. Did you use a valley pan ? If you ever lift the intake again do not use the "S" gaskets. Just lay a thick bead of RTV on the surfaces of block and intake, wait 20-30 min. until you can touch the bead then fit the intake and let the beads melt together.

Guck luck, Tom

 

No Fox is not my real name, its Thad but you can call me either .

When I changed the intake, i didn't pull the distributor but I did pull the plug wires off to give myself more room. I also took the distributor cap off just to look inside of it, nothing else. I have no clue about a stroboscope light or about timing a distributor. I guess I need to learn sometime. Thanks again guys for the help and info.

 

re check your firing order. spray some carb fuel on your intake manifold when idelling, it will raise if you have a leak.

 

Firing order is ok. Ill recheck the intake for leaks with the carb spray technique. But right now im tring to get my distributor unstuck. It won't budge. I'v used some WD40 on it and let it sit over night but no luck. Guess i'll go with PB blaster next and see if that helps.