The A/C hasn't worked in the truck since I bought it 2 years ago. I'm guessing it's just low on refrigerant, because when I first looked into it I found the plug for the compressor was unhooked. When I plugged it in and turned on the AC, the pulley clutch would kick on and off.

Problem is I don't know what type of refrigerant I have. I'm guessing R12 but how do I tell for sure?

And is R12 still a valid refrigerant? As in, can I take it to a shop and have it recharged with R12, or has that been outlawed and I need to convert to R134?

As always, thanks.

Edit: DUH! It would probably help if I told you the truck. 1991 F150 XLT Lariat 5.8L by the way

 

"Vehicles before 1994 need to be converted to R134A systems."


Do you have the sticker under the hood?

Have a shop suck out all the old stuff.

 

Are you sure I thought they can still sell you R12 but you need to show them your license. At least it's like that here in TX. R134A anyone can buy but about the conversion. Your gonna need to flush system and buy a new A/C accumulator. They say if a little bit of R12 and R134A mix it shortens the life of the A/C compressor and it won't work correctly anyways.

Talking about A/C compressor... mine just went out.

 

I think the sticker under the hood says R12, but I have no way of knowing if the PO converted it already, that's why I was wondering if there was any other way to tell.

Maybe I'll just call around to some different shops and get some info/quotes from them. If I do end up needing to convert, I'll probably have a shop drain the system then do the labor myself swapping parts, then have the shop charge the system.

I'm not too happy about the idea. The only thing I've ever taken my vehicles to a shop for is tires. Beyond that, besides the prices, I don't trust any shop. Too many horror stories I've heard on here and from other people. Besides, why would I pay a shop for work I can do myself? But I've never messed with AC before and I'm certainly not licensed for it.

Thanks for the info guys.

 

I don't like shops either... I was jacked last time I left my truck at one. They jacked my door speakers and put crappy ones on. I didn't bother going back, I just said "screw this *****". Since then I have always done my work. I remember when my A/C evaporator started leaking I was gonna convert it to R134A. I asked a couple of people and all they said was "flush the system and replace your A/C accumulator". I just ended up recharging with R12 but my dad had to show them his drivers license.

 

If it has been converted it should have a sticker saying so. The PO on mine was a service manger at a ford stealership and had it done. Blows nice and cold but don't know if the refridgerent itself matters.

 

the fittings where you recharge the ac if it is r12 they are small but if its been converted it has a adapter fitting screwed on you can find these at your locaL AUTO PARTS STORE TO SEE WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE

 

R12 is still available. The sale of it to someone with out an EPA609 certificate is prohibited. There is no LAW stating you have to convert to R-134a. Once the initial scare of no new production of R-12 has worn off it has become more affordable in price.

Most conversions from R-12 to R-134a do not cool as well as the original did because the condenser is not large enough to compensate for the lower cooling ability of R-134a. There are several good performing R-12 drop-in replacements on the market these days that make it much easier to retrofit without losing any cooling ability or the possibility of a failure due to the mixing of the R-12 based ester oil and the R-134a PAG oils. Freeze 12, Auto Frost, Dura Cool and others have been well received in the mobile A/C arena. All of them are compatible with ester oil based systems and they all have similar cooling/pressure curves to R-12.

None of these refrigerants will work on an already poor performing system that may be filled with contaminants, marginal components or leaks. Those items will need to be addressed before considering refilling with any of them, R-134a included. Spend some time by researching how these systems work and what the pitfalls are. A few tools from Harbor Freight and knowledge will go a long way to having an A/C system that reliably keeps the vehicle occupants cool.

R-12 service ports look like large tire valve stems. R-134a ports are quick connects that look similar to this:

 

Thanks for all the info! Of course I can't be positive, but I don't think there's any leaks to worry about- I think it's just a matter of the system needing recharged.

I'm gonna call some shops to see what I'd be charged to have them top it off with R12 and go from there.

My primary reason for wanting to get it working again is namely due to the crazy weather we've been having lately. The heat/humidity doesn't bother me- I'm fine with rolling down the windows and I can deal with it. But when it's raining and extremely humid at the same time, my windshield fogs up something awful. Cracking the windows is fine until I stop for a light and then it gets worse and only a paper towel to wipe it off clears it up. That just gets annoying. Of course there's always the option of using the heat to clear it up, but besides cooking me, that makes the windshield fog over really bad until it adjusts the temp change. Running on vent or "cold" air thru the defrost doesn't work either.

I've tried anti fog sprays and it doesn't help. So now I'm down to getting the AC working again.

Thanks again for the info guys. I'll let you know what I find out with the shops.

 

big fittings converted to 134.

small fittings it is still r12.