My Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would help.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything
My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks, ideas, or suggestions on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
1st disconnect the hose (quick disconnect) from the slave cylinder at the transmission and then see how the clutch pedal feels with just hand pressure. It shouldn't move more then say 1/4" and report back. If it moves more then you will need to remove the Clutch Master cylinder along with your line and bleed them out of the truck.
Can't believe we still have no clutch pressure at all!
Well me and my Dad have been working on this problem everyday now since last week. I have spent countless hours on the web, my Dad has pursued professionals advice, and we have attempted all sorts of procedures. BUT WE STILL CANNOT GET ANY CLUTCH PEDAL PRESSURE.
Sorry, but it is so frustrating. Most of the articles, research, and I even watched a youtube video (which is not easy on dial up connection ), describe how you can bleed the system and get back your clutch pressure due to air in the system. Well we knew that much. But what I have come to realize is that most of the internet articles, post, etc. describe earlier model Ranger and B-Series clutch system which must envolve the master cylinder.
In 2001 Ford Rangers (Mazda B-Series) received a little facelift. Our's is a 2001 Mazda B3000 and our slave cylinder resevior does not connect to the mastser cylinder. It is seperate so bench bleeding and tilting the maser cylinder didn't apply to our situation.
So, does anyone have any suggestions on how to regain clutch pedal pressure back on a 2001 or newer Ford Ranger or B-Series truck. We have literally exhausted all of our knowledge (which isn't much ) and resources.
To re-cap, all my Dad did last week was relaese the slave cylinder bleeder valve on the transmission. We pumped and bleed the system, filling up the slave cylinder resevior in the process. But when we did that we lost all clutch pedal pressure (which was perfect before we started). Now it is over a week later and like I said have researched and tried everything but cannot get any clutch pedal pressure back.
From what i read is you have the same type clutch system as the rest of the Rangers and Mazda trucks. There should be a quick disconnect at your slave cylinder at your transmission. You need to disconnect it there first to see if you have a hard pedal. Can you take pic's and post ?
Thanks for replying. It is nice of you to offer your advice. I was assuming that the 2001 model was different b/c all of the articles I read online were mostly of 93-99 Rangers and B-Series. Every article seem to indicate that the master cylider was bolted at an angle and to remove it from the firewall and tilt it to help bleed the system. Most articles would also say that if you remove the switch under the clutch pedal (located beneath the dash) follow the rod and you should be looking directly at the master cylinder (that wasn't the case on this truck).
This truck (2001 Mazda B3000) the master cylinder is straight and steel brake lines come of of it and attach to some sort of abs system near the driver's side fender. Just things like that made me think that in 2001 or newer models they may had a different master cylinder and slave cylinder resevior design.
I can't post a pic. But yes I have the quick connect at the slave cylinder. Why would disconnecting this give me a hard pedal?. And if it does what does that indicate?
I look forward to your reply. Sorry for the lack of knowledge.
Your clutch master is plastic with a plastic line. I assume the bleeder you are talking about is the one that is part of the slave cylinder. Take the rubber plug out of the side of the bell housing and make sure it isn't wet with fluid in there if so slave is leaking. I have used vacuum brake bleeders to bleed these before with good luck. I have pushed the throw bearing back with a short bar and got them to straighten up. I have just opened the bleeder and let them gravity bleed. I have replaced the slave and done nothing more then pump them vigorously and had them work. Are you sure the master is working IE: is the piston coming back. As matter fact on one I pumped fluid back through the bleeder.
I hope we are talking about the same thing here. There should be a small plastic reservoir with a rubber hose that runs down to the clutch master cylinder and will also has the hard plastic tube that runs down to the transmission. I don't think that the clutch would be connected to the ABS but i could be wrong.
With Line disconnect at the transmission and use just hand pressure you shouldn't be able to press the clutch pedal down more then about 3/16 of an inch. If it goes more you will either have air in the system or a bad Clutch Master Cylinder or an external leak.
Thanks so much for your's and the previous person's reply. And thanks for hanging in here with me on this delima.
My description's of the truck's layout must have been a little off base. You are correct the clutch master cylinder is a small plastic resivior that has a rubber hose and there is a hard plastic quick connect line going into the side of the transmission.
What I was describing as going to the abs system was the truck's brake master cylinder. You see in all the articles(and I am certain they were articles on bleeing the cluctch) they always referenced having to also bleed the brake master cylinder. I just could not understand the connection b/c I could not find where the clutch master cylinder connected to the brake master cylinder. So, I assumed Ford must have changed the set up on a 2001 or newer. Or maybe since mine was a V-6 it maybe different.
But like I stated your description is right on the money. And to add there is no fluid leaking behind the clutch pedal or the rubber piece on the transmission.
We have been pumping and bleeding with no success. We have no pedal at all. After a good while of pumping we can get a little clutch. Enough for it to go in gear. We can move it when this happens. But the clutch pedal is no way near as tight as it was befor my Dad opened the bleeder valve last week and all of this happened.
Is there anyway besides a vaccum pump and manually pumping the clutch pedal and opening the bleeder valve to get clutch pedal pressure back?
Any tricks that I could Try? B/C if it requires tearing into the transmission then we will have to take it to repair shop. But all we are trying to do is get the clutch pedal pressure back incase we do have to take it somewhere to get fixed.
ok, you'll will need to take the Clutch Master cylinder out of the truck with the hose and reservoir and the line that connects to the transmission and bleed them then reinstall. You need to follow steps in the video that whats in one of the other links i posted. Its real important that you follow the steps.
well do you have it fixed. My Slave cylinder when out in my truck again for the 3rd time and i just got it changed out yesterday and bled it today. Everything works good again. So lets us know where your at.