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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #1  
Old 07-10-2010, 08:44 PM
mikeyfz1 mikeyfz1 is offline
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Exclamation Need info on changing out my EGR valve

At about 77k my EGR valve went out, Not so bad when the dealer will cover it under warranty. Now at 108k (per the dealer) the EGR is bad again and also need to change out the cooler as well. Dealed did test for $75 bucks and says that the heads are fine and that is not the problem its the EGR valve. So I guess my question is, can I do this in my garage at home?? What is involved and how complicated is it realy? what is with the EGR by-pass kits i have seen. Is that somthing I want to consider? Please if someone has some proffesional advise I need it. Before I tear into this beast???

Thank you Mike
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:07 PM
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If the EGR cooler is bad, then you also want to install the oil cooler rebuild kit. The root cause of the EGR cooler failing is the oil cooler plugging up on the coolant side (coolant flow path is through the oil cooler and then on to the EGR cooler in series).

Lots of threads on EGR system deletes.

Personally I do not think you HAVE to delete the EGR system for reliability, but if you do, get a tuner that takes it into account (JMHO). Certainly if you properly delete the EGR system, then you have eliminated a source of some of the more common problems. If you keep the EGR system, I would consider installing the "BulletProof" EGR coolers.


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  #3  
Old 07-11-2010, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyfz1 View Post
its the EGR valve. So I guess my question is, can I do this in my garage at home?? What is involved and how complicated is it realy?

Thank you Mike
The EGR valve is easy. 2 bolts, twist the valve enough to the left to have the "EARS" open up. Then stick some heavy gauge wire through the "ears" and use a pry bar through the wire and pull straight up. It will pop out. Or you can buy a tool to pull it out with.

Also need to get the gaskets for it. I don't have the part number handy. Someone might jump on here with it though.

Here is a picture of where the EGR valve is:

http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_013.jpg
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:26 AM
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Here is the part number for the gasket and the two o-rings.3c3z-9p455-ab
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Old 07-11-2010, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
If the EGR cooler is bad, then you also want to install the oil cooler rebuild kit. The root cause of the EGR cooler failing is the oil cooler plugging up on the coolant side (coolant flow path is through the oil cooler and then on to the EGR cooler in series).

Lots of threads on EGR system deletes.

Personally I do not think you HAVE to delete the EGR system for reliability, but if you do, get a tuner that takes it into account (JMHO). Certainly if you properly delete the EGR system, then you have eliminated a source of some of the more common problems. If you keep the EGR system, I would consider installing the "BulletProof" EGR coolers.
.... and welcome to FTE!

I might add when you are done: flush the system with VC-9 and distilled water and then add a coolant filter system.
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2010, 02:18 PM
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a new vlave comes with o-rings.
imo you dont really have to repalce the o-rings. clean it and lube the o-rings and reinstall. unless they are damaged. We do it all the time.
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:40 PM
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Is there just o-rings, or is there also a gasket?

Does the valve need to be positioned open or closed?

thanks!
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:55 PM
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2 orings one flat gasket. it is a normall closed valve if it hung open then is most likly broken and need a new one.
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Old 07-12-2010, 01:27 PM
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THANKS for that!!
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  #10  
Old 07-12-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
2 orings one flat gasket. it is a normall closed valve if it hung open then is most likly broken and need a new one.
Cheezit, how easy should the valve move? I can move the valve open and closed with my fingers, but it requires a little effort. Should it be hard to move?
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitrous View Post
Cheezit, how easy should the valve move? I can move the valve open and closed with my fingers, but it requires a little effort. Should it be hard to move?
ya thats about right. its not a big spring.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:11 PM
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egr replacement

Two bolts and up and out. You'll have to work it back and forth and around to get it out, but that's all. New one drops in, bolt it up. Gasket is already on the new one, and likely will also stay with the old one as it comes off.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:27 AM
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sorry not trying to hijack this thread but a quick question. I pulled my egr valve this past weekend at 77k miles (06 f350 normally the wife's daily driver, but we tow a 14.5-15k 5th wheel about twice a month in June - September). It was actually pretty clean, but I used carb cleaner and shined it up trying not to get anything in the holes at the base of the top. After putting it all back together it started right up and we went for a ride, about 1.5 miles stopped at a light and when the light turned the truck wouldn't go, I basically had it floored and it was putting out black and blueish smoke but it barely moved us to the side of the road, like it went into some kind of limp mode. Anyway, sat there for a minute trying to think what I might have done wrong decided to try to move to the other side of the road where there was more shoulder and about half way across the road all of a sudden it clears up and back to full power. no CEL or any other warnings or lights. Drove it almost 100 miles since then and everything seems OK. We are leaving this Friday for a week long trip with the 5th wheel going about 400 mile one way and I sure don't want to get stuck. Any ideas as to what might have happened? I'm not sure when/why the EGR valve cycles but could it be that the valve was just "resetting" itself after having been unplugged, removed, cleaned and replaced?
thanks
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Old 07-13-2010, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul100 View Post
I'm not sure when/why the EGR valve cycles but could it be that the valve was just "resetting" itself after having been unplugged, removed, cleaned and replaced?
thanks
No.

They made EGR valve improvements in 2007. If yours is the original, I would buy a new one for the trip. I installed a new one in my 2006 last a few years ago. One of the improvements is a stiffer spring.

Problems immediately after the work quite often have a connection to the work. Not sure how, but it and the symptoms seem to point to the EGR valve.
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:16 AM
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Mike, what's your code? If it's P0401 EGR Flow Malfunction, chances are there's no replacement necessary. When I get that I pop it out, hit it with a tooth brush and bottle of carb cleaner, make sure everything is opperational again, and put it back in.
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:16 AM
 
 
 
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