I have not run accross that dtc before but its circuit b fault. Do you have a knowen good valve? if so try that and retest. 15 lbs pf boost is could be related but I think you have more then one issue. go with the dtc first though

 

I thought that was the code we get for an unplugged egr valve ,, I bet whoever had it before either lived with the cel light or more likley pulled their tuner off before selling the truck

 

mxrdrvr, It seems that different strategies for the same truck year act differently when the EGR valve has been removed, according to my understanding as per the great info introduced by cheezit. It would be good to know (but not mandatory) to know what strategies are in your truck.

It appears that the truck may be in a crippled mode because of the lack of EGR valve. But that begs the question, has the EGR cooler been removed, too? I would verify that the egr cooler has been removed first. If not there is (potentially) a whole lot of other issues (egr cooler installed & egr valve removed=bad!). After verifying the egr cooler removal/blockoff, get an EGR valve and plug it in, clear the codes, run it for a few days and see if the code disappears and the boost goes back up.

 

Thanks for the help. I am also getting a 0488 code. The egr valve is installed and blocked off but is plugged in. The egr cooler is also installed, the square one. I have no other egr to plug in to check it with. Do not get a cel and was told there was no tuner on this truck previously. It was owned by a business. Is there any way to find out what strategy I have in the truck???

Thanks again.

Frank

 

OK, I'm having some trouble understanding this - is everyone else confused, too?

The EGR Valve is installed, but....??blocked off?? how is it blocked??? - is the bottom section cut off, making it inoperable???

The EGR Cooler is installed, ok, but..... this means to me that the exhaust can freely flow into the intake, since the egr valve is not working properly to regulate flow.

Can this be why boost pressures are low, since there is an open airway from exhaust to intake without (egr) regulation?

 

wow a lot of reading here.

ok, my experience. the truck is an 05 with VXCF7D3 strategy. lost my EGR cooler almost 2 years ago to a crack. did my own complete delete (crack pipe style) been good ever since. left my EGR in and plugged in. lost boost to about 22psi and had codes (read with an Actron scanner) but no CEL. now this was before i got the VXCF7D3 strategy put in the truck. ran the truck for about 4 months this way, had the VXCF7D3 strategy put in the truck and ordered an SCT X3 from Eric Ended up with 4 tunes (sent me one i didn't want then sent the one i did want no charge), Ecomony, Aggressive Tow, Street, Agressive Street. all tunes with the EGR off. no change in boost, still only got about 22psi. no codes now according to the Actron. i tried Matt's tunes a few months after and loved the low end power of the SRL but the shifting was horrible. Transmission acted completely confused. same thing with his Street tune. still no change in boost. all my custom tunes from both tuners where programmed for stock head bolts. so i stopped running Matt's tunes for a while and ordered Eric's Extreme Race tune. however, he sent me his Extreme Street tune instead. i informed him of this and he sent over the Extreme Race tune at no charge. so 2 Extreme tunes for the price of one. Nice... So, i run the Extreme Street tune as my daily now. have for over a year. i contacted Matt earlier this year because my SCT wouldn't recognize his tunes (i wanted to try them again). He sent over new ones with a revised transmission tune. the tunes worked 90% better, but i still didn't like the shifting. here is what i notice between the 2 tuners. Matt's SRL tune has a ton of low end power. pulls really hard. transmission shifts are not very crisp and accurate (with my truck). i love the low end power tho. Eric's Extreme Street tune pulls pretty good to about half pedal, then feels like a 200 shot nitrous was just sprayed. pulls like crazy and shifts spot on. lots of top end power. i like Matt's tunes for the low end and Eric's for the shifting.

OK, don't know why my truck only boost to 22psi from a go. i can see over 30 with converter locked. been like this ever since the EGR delete. my truck runs warm, warmer then i think it should pulling my camper. fan comes on often in the summer in stop and go traffic. i have 160,000 on it now. been tuned for 50,000. i have injector issues right now i have not tracked down. i re-soldiered my FICM last winter. has worked good. i might be getting lower then normal voltage now or have an injector sticking or maybe going out. i think i'll just take it in and have ford take a look at it. hopefully they can tell me what is wrong with it.

 

Figurhead, was told there was a block plate on the egr valve, there is supposed to be no flow through the egr. This is what I was told when I bought the truck. Said it was done because the egr valves go bad and have to be replaced so they block them off. May have a bad valve and that is why it is throwing the codes.

 

There's probably a misunderstanding somewhere, between you and the seller. Your EGR Cooler was probably blocked with the "sneaky" block method, so that no exhaust from the exhaust manifold via the Y-pipe, can go through the EGR Cooler. This allows the stock/OE "look" with the egr cooler in place, yet nothing ever goes through the cooler. This allows some heat to get to the cooler, but not enough to cause it to leak (a coolant filter would be a good installation here). All exhaust is forced to go to the turbo (good), as if there was a full egr cooler delete installed (no Y-pipe).

So the egr valve is still in place and plugged in, like it should, right?

So the low boost problem..........what does a stock tuned truck get up to, 25psi???? Your 22 psi may be normal, no?

I get up to 32-33psi, with Matt's SRL++, and was near 25 psi with Eric's XStreet.

 

P0488 is the throttle plate. It's possible that it's not opening and that's why no boost. If you have an 04 engine (didn't read all the thread) then you can remove the elbow and remove the throttle plate with 2 screws and reinstall the elbow. Might be some of your EGR problems too.

 

Figurhead, I wish I was getting 22, am only getting15, and 16 on occasion!!!

Npccpartsman, will try tomorrow, dark now and have to run in a bit, thanks for the info! I do have an 04, thanks
Which elbow do I need to remove????

 

15?!?! WOW! I get 10-15 on take off, & up to 25 psi a few seconds later at 15mph. Something seems wrong. I never saw low boost when I had egr codes; and my egr valve was removed & the fan did not work (I was seeing 220 water and 240 oil temps). valve reinstalled & connected; 200 water and 220 oil max.

If the throttle plate has been removed, I think that code is thrown without a custom tune to delete it. I can't remember the exact code(s) I threw when the truck was checked with the IDS software, but the tech mentioned that the throttle plate code would not go away until the custom tune deleted it.

The throttle plate is located below the stock intake elbow, right in front of the oil and fuel filters. It is generally removed when an aftermarket intake is installed.

 

My water never gets over 180! my oil runs 210 to 213 on the highway. Hoping to figure out the boost problem, like the truck will like it better when it is running right!

 

Removing the butterfly itself never caused me a code. I got one after I installed an intake elbow that removed the complete mechanism and I had to leave it unplugged. I've only heard of one or two of those going bad. They were supposed to be programmed out of the loop a long time ago, but so were a LOT of things that showed back up recently. You don't have to run a programmer to remove the butterfly.

 

Might want to change out the "T stat" My truck, on the highway always runs at 190 or a little higher.

 

That and a coolant filter ar in the plan for the very neer future, also flushing and going to elc!