How do you remove the throttle cable from the Cruise Servo, mine is in a tight spot on my F53 Chassis and I think there's an attaching screw I can't see. I'm having trouble with my cruise, replaced the control buttons to no avail, I think the servo is bad from none use, starting working intermittently then not at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated, any repair suggestions would also be appreciated.
There should be some vacuum lines running to the servo which help it operate when cruise control is activated. If any of them look old or worn out just go ahead and replace them- vacuum line isn't that expensive and it's something that will eventually need to be done.
I don't believe there's any way to test the servo, but perhaps someone else on here knows more about that than I do.
Also, I'm not sure what the procedure would be for your truck, but the linkage on the cable from the servo can be adjusted. You may try tightening it to see if that makes any difference.
The servo is all electric.
To remove the cable there are no screws.
Speed Control Servo
1. Remove two screws that mount speed control bracket to vehicle.
2. Disconnect speed control 10-way connector.
3. Depress accelerator pedal and shaft (9725), then push locking arm on speed control actuator cap and rotate cap counterclockwise.
4. Remove cable ball slug from servo rotor.
5. Remove speed control actuator cable slug from speed control servo pulley. Gently push actuator cable slug past retaining spring using a small screwdriver.
6. Remove bracket from the speed control servo (9C735); keep bracket and three screws for reuse.
Speed Control Servo Rotor
1. Attach bracket to speed control servo with three screws. Tighten to 10-13 N-m (7-10 lb-ft).
2. Attach speed control 10-way connector speed control servo.
3. Attach speed control actuator (9A825) to servo.
4. Make sure the rubber seal is fully seated on actuator cable cap.
5. Depress accelerator pedal and shaft if accelerator cable (9A758) is attached to throttle and lock cable ball in slot located in servo pulley.
6. Release accelerator cable or pull accelerator cable at throttle end.
7. Insert cap locking tabs into speed control servo slots as shown.
8. Rotate cap clockwise until locking arm engages locking tab on servo.
9. Position speed control actuator and mount with two screws.
10. Adjust speed control actuator as described.
Bill,brother thank you so much this is the best explanation I could have possibly asked for and sure answers all those nagging questions. I really appreciate your time and expertise, this makes it a whole lot less daunting.
Please forgive me for emailing you directly but I thought it would be easier than the Forum and I need one more bit of advice regarding the CC Servo for my 94 Winnebago Brave 7.5 Litre.
I found a NOS servo on Ebay for a mere $49.00 as opposed to over $400 at the dealer. Afetr getting the servo out yesterday I was finally able to see the actual part number, it's F2TF 96735 AB.
The one I got off ebay as a guess (looks identical) is for 1995 ford truck part number F53F-9C734-AF I know it's not the same but I was wondering if the F53 part of that number might be referring to the F53 Chassis and if it might work, just a guess as I said. They have another on their ebay store that is F4TF-9C735-AD which is a closer number which I might buy just for grins to see if it might work, still a whole lot cheaper than the dealer.
The one I got off ebay as a guess (looks identical) is for 1995 ford truck part number F53F-9C734-AF I know it's not the same but I was wondering if the F53 part of that number might be referring to the F53 Chassis and if it might work, just a guess as I said.
That is not a 1995 Truck part number, that is a 1995 Tempo part number.
The 3 stands for Tempo.
A T stands for Truck.
Not that I'm questioning your mighty wisdom, but if the servo is all electric, why does it [or mine, rather] have vacuum lines to it? My truck is a '91 F150, it has 1 vacuum line connecting it to the upper manifold, and 1 vacuum line hooks into the top and then leads around to the side/bottom and hooks in there. The only reasonable conclusion I can come to is that they're there to help it operate.
Was that something they changed at some point between those years, to make the 94 and newer servo's all electric?