1962 F-100 unibody
#1
1962 F-100 unibody
So no pictures yet, but will have some tomorrow probably, but I've decided (a decade too late) that it's time to restore/update the 1962 f100 that my dad got to be my first car.
Needs a small amount of fab work for rust, but fortunately a small amount and never had an engine in it, i guess the hamster that came stock died.
Juggling a number of ideas for what to do with it, but definitely want to update the suspension and brakes to something a bit more modern and have a couple options for my underpinnings. What ended up being my first car was a 1984 long wheelbase f150, so I've thought about doing some frame modifications to shorten it the 2 feet needed to match length and using the 351W and three speed manual in it and go from there...
OR: My uncle has a short wheelbase 93 f150 with 302/auto that I can purchase and not have to do any frame mods whatsoever.
As to engines, aside from what is attached to either frame, I could put a 390/auto in or a 460/3 speed manual so decisions are a plenty.
I've other ideas, like paint/wheels/interior/stereo/a.c./HID light conversion, but first step is getting body solid, then put on to whichever frame/drivetrain I, and my dad, decide is best, but to be sure, there will be pictures.
Needs a small amount of fab work for rust, but fortunately a small amount and never had an engine in it, i guess the hamster that came stock died.
Juggling a number of ideas for what to do with it, but definitely want to update the suspension and brakes to something a bit more modern and have a couple options for my underpinnings. What ended up being my first car was a 1984 long wheelbase f150, so I've thought about doing some frame modifications to shorten it the 2 feet needed to match length and using the 351W and three speed manual in it and go from there...
OR: My uncle has a short wheelbase 93 f150 with 302/auto that I can purchase and not have to do any frame mods whatsoever.
As to engines, aside from what is attached to either frame, I could put a 390/auto in or a 460/3 speed manual so decisions are a plenty.
I've other ideas, like paint/wheels/interior/stereo/a.c./HID light conversion, but first step is getting body solid, then put on to whichever frame/drivetrain I, and my dad, decide is best, but to be sure, there will be pictures.
#2
I think you'll have frame mods regardless, as the 61-64s don't "bolt on" to anything newer. You'll need to fab cab mounts for sure, tough you may be able to use the originals & modify/adapt to the later frame. I'm sure one of the body swap gurus will chime in soon. Post some pics & let us see what we've got to work with! Good luck!
#3
Welcome; read some of the tech article's and see about converting your straight axle into a ifs type; (most swap's are 53-60) but theres' ,numerous articles on this swap; not easy, but doable; Frame swap would in my opinion be more challenging then; using a clip from another type vehicle (especially Uni's) and then use a crossmember conversion for engine swap.
I'm building/restoring a 64 F100 project with a straight axle and installing a 360 C-6; and modifing power steering & brake booster on once I get pass the cab mount replacements.
Keep us posted on your progress.
I'm building/restoring a 64 F100 project with a straight axle and installing a 360 C-6; and modifing power steering & brake booster on once I get pass the cab mount replacements.
Keep us posted on your progress.
#4
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#12
#13
I want a dd/weekend cruiser with power brakes (disk fronts) and power steering. I've decided to keep frame/body together and just buy the aftermarket upgrades to both.
I am debating finding another set of doors, however, as who had the vehicle before decided the stock mirrors sucked and put a set of towing mirrors on and just used metal screws to hold them in place and put holes all in the doors.
I am debating finding another set of doors, however, as who had the vehicle before decided the stock mirrors sucked and put a set of towing mirrors on and just used metal screws to hold them in place and put holes all in the doors.
#14
The Dakota IC cross member is out of production, probably permanently. Industrial Chassis no longer produces them or has the patterns and jigs. So one of the best made alternatives has evaporated.
The torque box is sheet metal stampings in the form of a box attached to the bedsides, bed floor and the rear cab end floor stamping. It is what provides the rigidity in the body along with unique B pillar lower internals. When this is rotted away by cancer all manner of things can and do happen with the body and doors not aligning, the actual truck twisting and cracking. I junk any truck that has this severely cancered as it is a huge job to replace it.
Garbz
The torque box is sheet metal stampings in the form of a box attached to the bedsides, bed floor and the rear cab end floor stamping. It is what provides the rigidity in the body along with unique B pillar lower internals. When this is rotted away by cancer all manner of things can and do happen with the body and doors not aligning, the actual truck twisting and cracking. I junk any truck that has this severely cancered as it is a huge job to replace it.
Garbz
#15
The pictures are probably a bit misleading as to that as it's sitting on very uneven ...well mud and I'd opened and closed the doors but hadn't shut them fully before taking the pictures.
I'll be cleaning the cab and bed out of the truck later this week (friday hopefully) and will have pictures of the bed interior and bare cab interior as well up shortly after.
I'll be cleaning the cab and bed out of the truck later this week (friday hopefully) and will have pictures of the bed interior and bare cab interior as well up shortly after.