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  #16  
Old 05-30-2013, 02:14 PM
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I have a leak somewhere in mine, took it in and they couldn't find it. They topped it up and it worked, but it needs another recharge now.
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspence105 View Post
I have a leak somewhere in mine, took it in and they couldn't find it. They topped it up and it worked, but it needs another recharge now.


f**d a/c sucks when they are leaking. the only real way to get it taken care of is to replace every component. did it a while back and cost ~$750 + a day of wrenching. there is no messing around with south texas heat!

if you cannot go that route, and the leak is not too bad, you can try some Red Angel or Cliplight. be advised, if the leak persists after using either of these- you will have to replace the drier and orifice tube before doing anything else on the system.
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2013, 03:35 PM
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if it has a leak and the shop says they can't find it, it is time to find a different shop that knows AC systems.

my crown vic has a SMALL leak that needs to be recharged every other year.
it took me all of 5 minutes to find it with the sniffer after i charged it last year.
at the end of this season when it needs charging again, i will fix it properly.
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  #19  
Old 05-30-2013, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alstieg View Post
you can go to walmart, buy the syththetic R134a big bottle recharge with the guage. Check your low end pressure according to the specs on the can (should be 35-45psi) If its low then add, if not you've got other issues. The fact that you have SOME A/c means you've got at least some pressure which would indicate you have no major leaks. the sealant in the can will take care of the rest. Buy the Synth stuff that gets 50% colder faster, you won't be sorry. it even contains the proper oil needed for the compressor.
also check your clutch gap with a feeler guage. (should be .025-.030 i think) Mine was up to pressure but the ac clutch kept disengaging on it own intermittently until i took a little spacer out behind the clutch which allowed the electromagnetic coil to grab it better. It took 5 min.
Definatly check the clutch gap, its close to a free fix. Mine had the same problem. Ford sells a shim kit if a smaller shim is needed. Check the gap with a feeler gage and remove one bolt and install a smaller shim as needed. There is a write up somewhere on this site about it.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2013, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc transport View Post
if it has a leak and the shop says they can't find it, it is time to find a different shop that knows AC systems.

my crown vic has a SMALL leak that needs to be recharged every other year.
it took me all of 5 minutes to find it with the sniffer after i charged it last year.
at the end of this season when it needs charging again, i will fix it properly.

They used UV dye and couldn't find the leak, I looked it over after driving it for a week and couldn't find it either. But it's clearly leaking I lost about a third of my charge over the the last 6 months. I figured the ford dealer in florida would be a good place to go.
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  #21  
Old 05-30-2013, 05:55 PM
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you need a black light to properly see the UV dye.

and if it is leaking under the fitting or in the evaporator or condenser, you will not see the dye either. that is where the sniffer comes in handy.
if there is any leakage at all, the sniffer will tell you.
the schrader valve in the low side port on the crown vic is leaking. spray soapy water on it and it will give one small bubble every 4-5 minutes.

like i said, it is a very small leak.
i got the sniffer out and eventually found it. then used the soap water to confirm it was in fact the valve.
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  #22  
Old 05-30-2013, 05:55 PM
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Sometimes compressor shaft seals are hard to detect because the clutch is in the way. These conpressor cases are known to leak where the halves meet. Condensers leak frequently too. Don't be afraid to use soapy water spray to find leaks. Fords evaporators seem to be pretty stout. Dodges on the other hand...
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  #23  
Old 05-30-2013, 06:58 PM
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i had 3 evaporators go on my trucks, the 88, the 89, and the 91.
the 89 and 91 were replaced before i sold the trucks, the 88 still needs it but since i am replacing the cab real soon, i am not bothering with the one currently in it.
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  #24  
Old 05-30-2013, 06:59 PM
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Try another shop, someone who does AC work, they usually have it advertised on big banners in Florida. What part of Florida? There are several of us spread throughout the state, maybe one of us can recommend a shop close to you.

As for the clutch gap adjustment, check out the SpringerPop link in my sig, he's got a how-to there. Or the Tex link and look at one of the last few pages. There's a write up there too.
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  #25  
Old 05-30-2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreyt View Post
Try another shop, someone who does AC work, they usually have it advertised on big banners in Florida. What part of Florida? There are several of us spread throughout the state, maybe one of us can recommend a shop close to you.

As for the clutch gap adjustment, check out the SpringerPop link in my sig, he's got a how-to there. Or the Tex link and look at one of the last few pages. There's a write up there too.
I'm actually in Canada I was just there in December with the family and the AC didn't work very well so I took it in. The guy who did the job seemed like he knew what he was doing and went over the lines with me after he said he couldn't find the leak. even let me use his fancy light and glasses. They charged me $90 and put in just under 2 lbs of 134a it was worth it to have the AC for the trip.
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  #26  
Old 05-30-2013, 08:05 PM
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In Post #8 above "bluescrew" wrote: "when im on the skinny pedal it blows cold, when i idle its not cold..".

If I were bluescrew, since it DOES blow cold, I wouldn't be messing with the refrigerant levels just yet, and would be trying this, instead:
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

After doing that, only then would I try more refrigerant.

Eliminate the easy, and cheap, things first!

Pop
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  #27  
Old 05-31-2013, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc transport View Post
i had 3 evaporators go on my trucks, the 88, the 89, and the 91.
the 89 and 91 were replaced before i sold the trucks, the 88 still needs it but since i am replacing the cab real soon, i am not bothering with the one currently in it.
I was speaking for the superduty, I was being a little vague I guess. My 89 still had r12 in it when I yanked the motor in 08.
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  #28  
Old 05-31-2013, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post

Eliminate the easy, and cheap, things first!


This advice should be applied to every scenario.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringerPop View Post
In Post #8 above "bluescrew" wrote: "when im on the skinny pedal it blows cold, when i idle its not cold..".

If I were bluescrew, since it DOES blow cold, I wouldn't be messing with the refrigerant levels just yet, and would be trying this, instead:
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

After doing that, only then would I try more refrigerant.

Eliminate the easy, and cheap, things first!

Pop
Compressor Clutch Air Gap has already has been mentioned a couple of times. My money is on air gap too.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:45 PM
 
 
 
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