painting dually wheels
#1
painting dually wheels
I'm not busy this weekend figured it would be a nice project to do, going to paint front two first, then put front back on and lift rear pull the outers and let it back down, I don't know what types of paint to use though? this isnt high budget at all, I'm going to wire brush, apply primer and then some type of spray paint, the wheels are currently white, going to be black when finished, going to use rustoleum paints but not sue what kind theres a billion
#2
hey bud check out an autozone if you have one near by they have rustoleum and duplicolor paints and primer just for wheels and a good selection on colors as well thats where i bought mine to paint my wife's rims with, bought the paint and primer and scotch bite pads everything came to bout $50 bucks at the absolute most but i also made sure to buy plenty where i know ill have plenty left over just in case of... well you know ooops and what not
#3
I absolutely hate Rustoleum, they were good last year but it's my understanding they have since changed their formulas to something more environmentally-friendly and they now suck so bad it ain't funny - they tend to run, coats take forever to dry out, and it's a bear to even apply an even coat with a can. Krylon seems to have the same issue as well. What I have been using lately is the Rust Guard (or something like that) line of the Color Place brand sold at Walmart, it lays down very evenly and dries out very quick and holds up pretty good to the elements.
#4
#5
The worst thing about Rustoleum, if you ever try to repaint the new paint usually won't stick to it.
As far as stopping rust, it don't do that well either.
I am using farm equipment paint from Tractor Supply for my frame, wheels and underbody.
Thinking hard about using it for the cab top as well since I am probably going with gloss black again.
As far as stopping rust, it don't do that well either.
I am using farm equipment paint from Tractor Supply for my frame, wheels and underbody.
Thinking hard about using it for the cab top as well since I am probably going with gloss black again.
#6
well thanks for the opinions on the rustoleum NOT going that route now lol, however I did go down to autozone and picked up two cans of semi black gloss engine paint made by duplicolor, supposed to rain tomorrow and I was ancy to try it, so I painted my grille and the headlight moldings instead (they were gray before)LOL, but it looks so cool now,I washed it then sanded, then put on 3 coats of this engine enamel black paint, and the truck looks mean now trucks red then the front end is black, I wanted to put like a skull or something similar in place of the ford emblem but figured it might be bad for business when going to cutomers houses, might not look "professional" eh I still might do it, wheels will be next weekend now since it will be alot more time consuming with the wirebrushing
#7
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes
on
31 Posts
pics......or it didn't happen.
yeah,skip the skull idea for a biz truck.your right.you would be giving the wrong impression.
i used rustoleum on my bed.so far so good.used it on my chipper a few yrs ago too,no problems.i do have to paint that again cus i never got enough on it really last time,and its still kinda thin looking.holding up ok though.
i buy the pints/gallons there,and spray it with a compressor/gun.
i always use that primer they have thats called "rusty metal" i think it is.i guess its supposed to be better than the standard primer,but heck if i know if it really is lol.never researched it.
Dave its good to hear your getting the '86 redone!
yeah,skip the skull idea for a biz truck.your right.you would be giving the wrong impression.
i used rustoleum on my bed.so far so good.used it on my chipper a few yrs ago too,no problems.i do have to paint that again cus i never got enough on it really last time,and its still kinda thin looking.holding up ok though.
i buy the pints/gallons there,and spray it with a compressor/gun.
i always use that primer they have thats called "rusty metal" i think it is.i guess its supposed to be better than the standard primer,but heck if i know if it really is lol.never researched it.
Dave its good to hear your getting the '86 redone!
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
#11
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Campbell River, B.C.
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I've heard good things about epoxy self etching primers but have no first hand experience. The experience I do have tells me that if it came in a rattle can, its almost always crap no matter what brand it is. Primers that have zinc mixed into them will resist rust much better than others and I've had good experience with that.
You can also get actual zinc primer in a rattle (sometimes called weld through primer) can and is used as a spray on galvanizing. Do not use this as your primer, but you can lay down a thin coat of it before you apply your true sealer primer as it will help neutralize rust that is still there (you will NEVER get rid if all of it).
I would even go as far as to suggest an industrail or marine primer that is brushed on because you can apply it in proper thickness. Then some light sanding to get the finish you want, THEN top coat for the cosmetic appearance.
The product I've used before is made by cloverdale here in canada and it is a zinc rich primer RUSTEX http://www.cloverdalepaint.com/info/...n/c10-0030.pdf. It can be sprayed or brushed on but generally has to be thinned out before it can be sprayed. One of the things that I hate about rattle cans is you are paying for propellant and lots of solvent so it rarely gives you enough thickness on the part you are trying to cover.
You can also get actual zinc primer in a rattle (sometimes called weld through primer) can and is used as a spray on galvanizing. Do not use this as your primer, but you can lay down a thin coat of it before you apply your true sealer primer as it will help neutralize rust that is still there (you will NEVER get rid if all of it).
I would even go as far as to suggest an industrail or marine primer that is brushed on because you can apply it in proper thickness. Then some light sanding to get the finish you want, THEN top coat for the cosmetic appearance.
The product I've used before is made by cloverdale here in canada and it is a zinc rich primer RUSTEX http://www.cloverdalepaint.com/info/...n/c10-0030.pdf. It can be sprayed or brushed on but generally has to be thinned out before it can be sprayed. One of the things that I hate about rattle cans is you are paying for propellant and lots of solvent so it rarely gives you enough thickness on the part you are trying to cover.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
egg collector
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
01-03-2016 05:38 PM
BIGskinny
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
24
06-02-2011 03:09 PM