1996 F250 460 baseline dyno results and head porting info-RESULTS ARE IN!
#136
04-10-2013, 08:23 PM
Very informative thread. Had to smile when reading the earlier posts about using the Santa Cruz grade for evaluation. My dad used the 1st part to Lexington dam to test his '68 Volvo P1800 tune. I've used it for all my cars, including figuring out that a very clogged factory catalytic converter, makes an '82 Volvo turbo wagon very unhappy!
Last tested my '70 F250 with a '73 460 in it. Found out more advance on the MSD distributor would make more power, but those D2ve heads would ping like crazy going up that grade. Motors all busted up now, so current plan is to pull an EFI 460 out the junkyard with ever accessory needed. Can't wait to see the final installment the "BOPORT 460"!
Last tested my '70 F250 with a '73 460 in it. Found out more advance on the MSD distributor would make more power, but those D2ve heads would ping like crazy going up that grade. Motors all busted up now, so current plan is to pull an EFI 460 out the junkyard with ever accessory needed. Can't wait to see the final installment the "BOPORT 460"!
#137
05-22-2013, 11:47 AM
#138
05-31-2013, 12:14 AM
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05-31-2013, 07:48 AM
#140
06-06-2013, 07:09 AM
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thanks for all your work and posts Boport this is by far the very best thread I have found online anywhere with regards to the 460EFI I have a1990 F350 XLT Lariat CCLB and am rebuilding the engine now it is all apart and will be giving the head shop a call next week to get the bigger valves and port work quoted up
Just a question for Boport did you do any port work to intake manifold I have removed all the smog crap from my engine as I mainly run on LPG as my daily drive but still run 98 pump fuel in rear tank I have already installed adjustable fuel reg set at 41psi and 32lb injectors from an F6 Turbo Typhon (Ps I am in Australia) I have ceramic coated 3" headers twin high flow cats
and 3" straight through mufflers dumping outside infront of the rear wheels
standard factory ECU no mods truck feels a little sluggish of the lights but once it hit 2000 rpm it really takes off so maybe fuel is a bit rich down low hope head work and new cam help with that the info I have learnt on this site is amazing for me as knowone down here in Australia know anything about 460EFI engines even our speed shops that import everything from the USA don't deal with EFI they all try to tell you to remove the EFI and go 4 barrel Carb anyway thanks to all who have put posts up here for us all to benefit from
Ps still trying to learn and find how to access and post threads so sorry if I get some things wrong I would like to subscribe to this post for future references but don't know how but I see some people say they have can someone tell me how to do it thanks Adam
Just a question for Boport did you do any port work to intake manifold I have removed all the smog crap from my engine as I mainly run on LPG as my daily drive but still run 98 pump fuel in rear tank I have already installed adjustable fuel reg set at 41psi and 32lb injectors from an F6 Turbo Typhon (Ps I am in Australia) I have ceramic coated 3" headers twin high flow cats
and 3" straight through mufflers dumping outside infront of the rear wheels
standard factory ECU no mods truck feels a little sluggish of the lights but once it hit 2000 rpm it really takes off so maybe fuel is a bit rich down low hope head work and new cam help with that the info I have learnt on this site is amazing for me as knowone down here in Australia know anything about 460EFI engines even our speed shops that import everything from the USA don't deal with EFI they all try to tell you to remove the EFI and go 4 barrel Carb anyway thanks to all who have put posts up here for us all to benefit from
Ps still trying to learn and find how to access and post threads so sorry if I get some things wrong I would like to subscribe to this post for future references but don't know how but I see some people say they have can someone tell me how to do it thanks Adam
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06-06-2013, 09:54 AM
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#143
06-07-2013, 04:32 AM
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Hi guys I have an F350 XLT Lariart CCLB 460EFI with E4OD Trans
I am looking to replace the cam and Lifters I am also thinking of putting in a gear drive set instead of the timing chain set has anyone used these and what do you think of them are they fine to use with EFI speed density system also what is the biggest cam possible it is a weekend tow vehicle not really concerned with the milage as long as it goes well I do have 4 into 2 into 1 headers on it with very short twin HiFlo 3" cats and full 3" twin system dumped out infront of the rear wheels it has a balance pipe across the exhaust but I am thinking of changing this to a (X) cross over.
I am looking at getting bigger valves in the heads as I am about to pull down the motor the throttle body is standard but air intake has been removed and K&N filter fitted
any thoughts or recommendations on what I should do
thanks Adam
I am looking to replace the cam and Lifters I am also thinking of putting in a gear drive set instead of the timing chain set has anyone used these and what do you think of them are they fine to use with EFI speed density system also what is the biggest cam possible it is a weekend tow vehicle not really concerned with the milage as long as it goes well I do have 4 into 2 into 1 headers on it with very short twin HiFlo 3" cats and full 3" twin system dumped out infront of the rear wheels it has a balance pipe across the exhaust but I am thinking of changing this to a (X) cross over.
I am looking at getting bigger valves in the heads as I am about to pull down the motor the throttle body is standard but air intake has been removed and K&N filter fitted
any thoughts or recommendations on what I should do
thanks Adam
#144
06-07-2013, 08:26 AM
Adam, the problem with any kind of cam on a speed density system, is what is called "lobe separation", too little and the idle vacuum gets too low and erratic driving the MAP sensor crazy. A bit more lift for torque is OK.
Whatever you do with your exhaust, make sure the O2 sensor is in a location it reads both banks. On heads, if you can score a set of the F3TZ heads they are the best factory EFI heads. The 88-92 pistons have the smallest recess, so the combination I am going with is early EFI short block, decked .020 and F3TZ heads.
Cam drive, the factory EFI system is a double row roller chain.
Since you are pulling the engine down, I would see if you can have the block decked, .020" is about the max you can go without running into intake manifold sealing issues.
One item I did with mine before changing to MAF/SEFI was to regroup the injector banks. Ford grouped them 1,4,5,8 and 2,3,6,7 or end 4 center 4. The older carbureted engines and the EFI intake have what is called 180 degree runners, where it is always 180 degrees between intake pulses on each side of the intake. The early EFI 460s seem to have a penchant for ring and piston failure on #5. #5 is the second cylinder in the firing order and ganged with #1 injector. I set mine up 1,4,6,7 and 2,3,5,8 just like the intake runners are built. This smoothed the idle a bit and moved #5 injector to the opposite pulse from #1.
Since I switched to MAF/SEFI, mine idles so smoothly, I think you could set a coin on edge on top of the plenum.
Whatever you do with your exhaust, make sure the O2 sensor is in a location it reads both banks. On heads, if you can score a set of the F3TZ heads they are the best factory EFI heads. The 88-92 pistons have the smallest recess, so the combination I am going with is early EFI short block, decked .020 and F3TZ heads.
Cam drive, the factory EFI system is a double row roller chain.
Since you are pulling the engine down, I would see if you can have the block decked, .020" is about the max you can go without running into intake manifold sealing issues.
One item I did with mine before changing to MAF/SEFI was to regroup the injector banks. Ford grouped them 1,4,5,8 and 2,3,6,7 or end 4 center 4. The older carbureted engines and the EFI intake have what is called 180 degree runners, where it is always 180 degrees between intake pulses on each side of the intake. The early EFI 460s seem to have a penchant for ring and piston failure on #5. #5 is the second cylinder in the firing order and ganged with #1 injector. I set mine up 1,4,6,7 and 2,3,5,8 just like the intake runners are built. This smoothed the idle a bit and moved #5 injector to the opposite pulse from #1.
Since I switched to MAF/SEFI, mine idles so smoothly, I think you could set a coin on edge on top of the plenum.
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06-07-2013, 09:17 AM
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#146
06-07-2013, 10:03 AM
First, see if one of the mods can move this out of Boport's thread. Second, no, you have two wires, white and tan, each runs 4 injectors. Whichever wire is on #1 (should be tan) is group #1, originally 1,4,5,8 injector #2 will have the white wire, it is group #2, originally 2,3,6,7. The easiest way is to take the connectors apart and move the white and tan wires. Tan should end up on #1, #4, #6 and #7, white on #2, #3, #5 and #8.
You really only need to change the left (driver's in the US) side. just switch the tan and white wires on 5,6,7,8.
You really only need to change the left (driver's in the US) side. just switch the tan and white wires on 5,6,7,8.
#147
07-26-2013, 12:05 PM
#148
08-15-2013, 09:51 PM
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#149
08-18-2013, 07:54 AM
awesome write up, thread, subscribed, I'll be cutting that horn out of mine this weekend = ), couldn't I take that out and use something else to splice the rubber intake hoses together? I also wanted to figure out how to make my own cold air intake for the truck, is it doable?
#150
09-28-2013, 01:54 PM
Sorry for not getting back on here guys, just been tied up with some other projects and we have been very busy in the shop the last 6 months. At any rate, just thought I'd drop a line and let you know how everything has been going.
I've been driving/towing with the truck quite a bit now and really have had no problems or interesting things to report since the last dyno. The truck starts up and goes, tows well with the new power, seems to be getting the same or better mileage as before the swap.
The only thing I wish I could go back and change (still may) would be the headers. Although they did help midrange and top end power significantly, there was also a noticeable loss of low end "grunt" which I do miss while towing. My feeling is the shorty/mid length headers were far from optimized for torque production lower in the rpm range. A longer primary tube length header should help scavenge better in the lower rpms and produce at least the same or better low end torque as the stock manifolds. The best design out there I think for these trucks is the headers from L&L, and I wish I had found them before installing the Hedmans. If I have any problems with the Hedmans or any excuse to pull them off I will certainly be changing to the L&L's. I would also re-dyno to confirm they bring back the torque (and hopefully a little more power).
I STILL have not been able to locate a Vortech supercharger kit, so if you see any floating around on the web please let me know! That will be my final addition to the truck, other than a standalone ignition if we run into any limitations with the stock ECU.
I will try and get back on here more often to answer any questions you may have, but if you ever need to get ahold of me my contact information is below.
Boport Racing Heads
510-979-9211
bo at bo-port.com
I've been driving/towing with the truck quite a bit now and really have had no problems or interesting things to report since the last dyno. The truck starts up and goes, tows well with the new power, seems to be getting the same or better mileage as before the swap.
The only thing I wish I could go back and change (still may) would be the headers. Although they did help midrange and top end power significantly, there was also a noticeable loss of low end "grunt" which I do miss while towing. My feeling is the shorty/mid length headers were far from optimized for torque production lower in the rpm range. A longer primary tube length header should help scavenge better in the lower rpms and produce at least the same or better low end torque as the stock manifolds. The best design out there I think for these trucks is the headers from L&L, and I wish I had found them before installing the Hedmans. If I have any problems with the Hedmans or any excuse to pull them off I will certainly be changing to the L&L's. I would also re-dyno to confirm they bring back the torque (and hopefully a little more power).
I STILL have not been able to locate a Vortech supercharger kit, so if you see any floating around on the web please let me know! That will be my final addition to the truck, other than a standalone ignition if we run into any limitations with the stock ECU.
I will try and get back on here more often to answer any questions you may have, but if you ever need to get ahold of me my contact information is below.
Boport Racing Heads
510-979-9211
bo at bo-port.com