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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #1  
Old 07-03-2010, 04:07 PM
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53-56 f100 column repair

this is my thread on how i repaired my stock column (to the toyota box).

some facts i found out. the steering shaft is 3/4", has 40 splines for the steering wheel, has a 11/16" threaded area with 5/8-18 threads for steering wheel nut. it also has about a 1/16" before the splines and about 1/16" between the splines and threads. 1 1/2" muffler pipe is real close to the same thickness as the stock column and the toyota p/s box is 11/16"-36 splines.

Click the image to open in full size.

the column was cut too short, the shaft was exposed 8" inside the cab and had some funky welds.

Click the image to open in full size.

the fix was to build a new shaft and extend the column. i had a HAMB member in oregon make me a new shaft with a double d at the bottom (easier to find a u joint) and stock at the top.
i repaired the column using some muffler pipe and a homemade aluminum V block.
Click the image to open in full size.
next step is to find bearings (i haven't received the shaft yet to measure). CPP makes a bushing and stop collar kit, but i really would like to find a sealed roller bearing.....more to come.
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:31 PM
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Looks very professional!
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Old 07-04-2010, 12:12 PM
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IMHO roller or ball bearings in a steering column is major over-engineering. The shaft turns at an extremely slow speed, not very far, and and has no substantial side loads (unless you are sleeping on the steering wheel), the definition of a bushing application.
Turn bushing(s) out of a HMW plastic such as delrin, they will last longer than the column.
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Old 07-05-2010, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
IMHO roller or ball bearings in a steering column is major over-engineering. The shaft turns at an extremely slow speed, not very far, and and has no substantial side loads (unless you are sleeping on the steering wheel), the definition of a bushing application.
Turn bushing(s) out of a HMW plastic such as delrin, they will last longer than the column.
i've been looking into delrin as the lower bearing is being a real pain to find (size wise). mid fifty has theirs listed as delrin, but cpp doesn't say.
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Old 07-05-2010, 10:07 AM
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Chuck Frank
Know someone with a lathe? Doesn't need to be a super high precision job. Slide fit on the shaft and housing. add a flange to keep it from sliding up the shaft and as a dust cover if you'd like. Ididit secures theirs with 2 small roll pins pressed into thru drilled holes (so you can push them back out with an L shaped tool from inside the bore should you have a need to take the bushing out again, ask how I know). There is at least one supplier of small sections of delrin on Ebay. do a search on HMW plastic.
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Old 07-17-2010, 07:04 PM
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more................
i bought the kit from mid fifty (delrin bushing and stop collar), got the shaft from a HAMBer in Oregon.....it looks great.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

bought a new u joint from limeworks in whitter (these guys are great and close to the same or cheaper then mail order giants).

Click the image to open in full size.

i originally bought the floor plate with the collar support from mid fifty, but it didn't look right. the collar was 2" ID, the stock column is 1.5" OD and it has set screws in the collar to hold the column.....kinda hokey, but worse with that gap. i cut off the collar, welded and re-adjusted the holes for the column and brake arm. went back to limeworks for the column floor mount...again great price.

Click the image to open in full size.

here's the column primed, ready to go in for the last test fit, so i can drill the holes for the floor mount and then everything gets painted.

Click the image to open in full size.

i fixed the little dimple that i missed after i took this pic.

slow going because other cars and it HOT!!!
more to come.............................................. .
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:19 PM
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column is in, just finishing some details.





now i'm thinking of putting a tube in where the shift tube was to hide the turn signal wiring.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:35 PM
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Very nice and clean.
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:35 AM
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anyone know what outside diameter the stock shift tube is.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:46 AM
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My guess would be the next smaller fractional size to the width of the notch in the column drop?
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:40 PM
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Excellent work!
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
My guess would be the next smaller fractional size to the width of the notch in the column drop?
the hole in the column top under the steering wheel is about 7/8. i was going to look at thin wall tubing, make a plate to bolt it to the column in the stock location and maybe wedge it in the column drop. but i though 7/8 might look to big.
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:46 PM
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You could use 1/2" (nominal) electrical conduit tubing it is ~ 11/16" OD and inexpensive at any big box DIY store. It's been a long time, but it seems that in the back of my memory there would have been a thin strip of rubber spacer (inner tube might work?) between the tube and drop to keep it from rattling.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
You could use 1/2" (nominal) electrical conduit tubing it is ~ 11/16" OD and inexpensive at any big box DIY store. It's been a long time, but it seems that in the back of my memory there would have been a thin strip of rubber spacer (inner tube might work?) between the tube and drop to keep it from rattling.

sounds like a plan.......i knew i kept those old inner tubes for a reason .
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:39 AM
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I have a partially cut up inner tube from a truck, one from a car, and one from a bicycle (different thickness and diameters) that I keep handy for making rubber gaskets and parts and even big HD rubber bands from.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:39 AM
 
 
 
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