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  #1  
Old 06-30-2010, 02:30 AM
460-67-FORD 460-67-FORD is offline
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460 swap with 400 bell housing clutch problem

i just did a 460 swap in my 67 ford f250 i used a 400 bell housing and no matter how i adjust the clutch it aint fully disengaging????????? i was told i need like a 1/2 inch or 1 inch spacer between block and bell housing has anyone ran into problem or heard anything please all the help i can get so close to driving it hopefully for the 4 july weekend so i can go break something or get stuck trying ha ha
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:10 AM
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I am going through the exact same thing with my swap (460 into '78 F150 originally with 400/NP435)

I'm curious as to whether a clutch fork from a factory 460/435 combo will solve the issue?
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:16 AM
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Hmm. I have a 1977 F-150 4x4 4 speed. It had a 351m and I swapped to a 460. I used a 390 flywheel and other than that all the parts were original to the truck (bell housing, clutch fork etc). I did not use a spacer and everything went right together like stock.
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:09 PM
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i have a 78 f250 4x4 that i did this same swap too. used a 400 bell housing, 360/390 flywheel clutch and pressure plate. i had the pilot bearing machined to fit deeper into the crank to avoid the use of any spacer. i've had no issues with this set up at all other than using a cheap clutch kit at first.
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:20 AM
460-67-FORD 460-67-FORD is offline
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cool thanks guys appreciate it not sure what im going to do yet
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:03 AM
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After some research, and some talk with a Ford-Nut friend of mine, I've decided to use a length of threaded rod that is longer than the stock rod. I have run out of room on the original rod for adjustment.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:02 AM
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ATC CRAZY if your talking about the clutch fork adjustment rod iv tried it short long everything just not right at all iv been doing some research and 400 bell housing is 3/8 shorter then a 460 bell housing im going to try to space mine tonight see if it solves the problem..... thanks
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:56 PM
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The reason the bell housing is different is the 460 flywheel is thicker and it's a 1/2 inch not 3/8.this could cure your problem however.But like a lot of others I to have done this swap and never had a problem! what fly wheel did you use?Beck and Borg clutch or diaphragm? also the depth of the pilot bearing can be an issue by not allowing the input shaft to go all the way in. Here's how I do mine, If I have a 460 flywheel I use a 83 up bell housing (it's deeper to accommodate the flywheel) then I use everything from the 400 for the clutch linkage you have to remove the housing for the hydraulic clutch slave ,If I use the 390 ONLY flywheel I have the pilot bearing turned down to recess into the crank like it's supposed to then use all the 400 clutch linkage
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:06 PM
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I used a 390 flywheel with the stock 351M bell and did nothing special with the pilot bearing and I'm not running a spacer. Does this mean my input shaft is pushing on my crank? Seems to me that if a 460 can replace a 351/400 in a C6 application and everything bolts together and the bell is the correct dept that the same would hold true on the manual? No?
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alans77crew View Post
The reason the bell housing is different is the 460 flywheel is thicker and it's a 1/2 inch not 3/8.this could cure your problem however.But like a lot of others I to have done this swap and never had a problem! what fly wheel did you use?Beck and Borg clutch or diaphragm? also the depth of the pilot bearing can be an issue by not allowing the input shaft to go all the way in. Here's how I do mine, If I have a 460 flywheel I use a 83 up bell housing (it's deeper to accommodate the flywheel) then I use everything from the 400 for the clutch linkage you have to remove the housing for the hydraulic clutch slave ,If I use the 390 ONLY flywheel I have the pilot bearing turned down to recess into the crank like it's supposed to then use all the 400 clutch linkage

What are you talking about with the pilot bearing being turned down? Mine fit in the hole in the crank just perfect...?

I am using a 390 flywheel, 390 clutch kit (Borg & Beck) and the rest of it is stock 400/NP435 stuff...
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:34 AM
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When I bought my truck it already had a 460 in it, so I don't know what parts were used. When I pulled the engine, there was a spacer cut from either 3/8 or 1/2" plate between the bell housing and engine block. I sold the engine on ebay to a guy who was doing the swap and gave him the spacer so I can't measure it for you. Appearently it was needed to make it all work, looked like a lot effort was put into makeing it.
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATC Crazy View Post
What are you talking about with the pilot bearing being turned down? Mine fit in the hole in the crank just perfect...?

I am using a 390 flywheel, 390 clutch kit (Borg & Beck) and the rest of it is stock 400/NP435 stuff...
I've got the same set up with no probelms. But after reading the info in this thread and seeing it in several other threads I'm kind of worried that my input shaft is pressing against the back of my crankshaft.
Years ago I insalled a 4 cylinder T5 behind a 302. I didn't know at the time but the 4 cylinder trans has a slightly longer input shaft and it was pushing on the crankshaft. After several thousand miles the engine thrust bearing was wiped out and a piece of it got in the oil pump and locked it up. Upon pulling the engine I could grabe the balancer and move the crank back and forth about a 1/4 inch form all the wear on the thrust bearing. I hope I'm not repeating this on my 460.
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1979 Ford Bronco 4X4 400 NP205 C6
1979 Ford F-150 4X4 400 NP205 4-speed Parts?
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1977 Ford F-150 4X4 400 NP205 C6 Parts?
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Old 07-03-2010, 04:55 AM
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I just don't see how the spacer will help. If anything it will make my situation worse. I'm already not getting enough travel with the clutch fork...a 1/2" spacer will mean I'll be getting 1/2" LESS travel with the throwout bearing against the pressure plate.

I do understand what you are saying about the input shaft bottoming out on the crank though. I don't think I have that problem as the engine slid perfectly into place without any trouble...
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATC Crazy View Post
I just don't see how the spacer will help. If anything it will make my situation worse. I'm already not getting enough travel with the clutch fork...a 1/2" spacer will mean I'll be getting 1/2" LESS travel with the throwout bearing against the pressure plate.

I do understand what you are saying about the input shaft bottoming out on the crank though. I don't think I have that problem as the engine slid perfectly into place without any trouble...
I thought mine slide prefectly into place as well but I just don't get why some people have to modify the pilot bearing and some don't. I know a guy out by me that has done several 4 speed 4x4 460 swaps and his went right together as well.
One thing I don't get with the spacer is- wont that make your motor mounts not line up by pushing the engine forward?
It also seems to me that is a 460 has to be spaced out from a manual trans then it would have to be spaced out from the auto as well.
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1979 Ford F-150 4X4 400 NP205 4-speed Parts?
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1977 Ford F-150 4X4 400 NP205 C6 Parts?
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Old 07-03-2010, 10:39 AM
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Are all you guys using the original 3 finger PP or the diaphragm PP? It makes a difference in how the clutch is set-up.

You see a lot of discussions regarding installing Cummins engines in trucks... the DIAPHRAGM is a CHEVY design.

Ha ha ha had to throw that in.

Seems to me the key to the swap is using FE flywheels, make sure you have the truck bell housing and not a car bell housing and use the correct pilot bearing.

Josh
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Old 07-03-2010, 10:39 AM
 
 
 
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