Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
#1
Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
1985, F-250, 4 Speed: The end and Push Rod of Slave Cylinder blew off (or came off) and I replaced it. My Chilton book says I have to replace it all - Master and Slave as one piece. Is that true?
I have replaced the Slave and bled it until I feel like a hemophyliac! Is my Master bad too? or do I indeed have to get a complete unit (with both).
I am not much of a mechanic, but it seems the push rod on the new Slave will not push my Throw-Out Bearing lever (whatever it is called) far enough. I cannot get the truck to go into any gear.
Help!
I have replaced the Slave and bled it until I feel like a hemophyliac! Is my Master bad too? or do I indeed have to get a complete unit (with both).
I am not much of a mechanic, but it seems the push rod on the new Slave will not push my Throw-Out Bearing lever (whatever it is called) far enough. I cannot get the truck to go into any gear.
Help!
#2
Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
These things really need to be reverse bled. You use a vacuum pump- style tool, to push fluid in through the bleeder to the master. Also, make sure it got a good seal at the lower connection. If the master is stock, you should replace it as well, as it is bound to be worn out also.
#3
Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
You may want to double check and make sure your firewall isn't cracked allowing your clutch master cylinder to push forward as the pedal is pushed down. I went nuts one time when i first ran across this, replaced the clutch and still couldn't get my truck to go into gear. I ended up putting large fender washers on the inside of the firewall to keep it from moving, the one on the left going over the bracket that holds the steering column, and the other side just reaching out over good metal. Get out and watch the master while someone pushes the clutch pedal.
#4
Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
Well I have checked the firewall and that ain't it, but I got to tell you that is great advice and something I would have never thought to look for! I can see that causing unknown agony forever until you found that. I will have to log that one away in my noggin for future! Great advice
I think it must be my Master Cylinder. What is all this I read about it being one complete factory sealed unit? My parts store scratches their head when I tell them that one.
Thanks,
Billy W
I think it must be my Master Cylinder. What is all this I read about it being one complete factory sealed unit? My parts store scratches their head when I tell them that one.
Thanks,
Billy W
#5
Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
The factory recommends replacing the system as a unit because a) it's such a pain to bleed it right, and b) the little clips are such a pain to disconnect/reconnect. But it IS possible, and the Haynes manual tells exactly how to bleed it. It's different for different years, so buy one and read it carefully. You might also find the procedure here, but I can't say if it'll be right.
#6
Clutch - Master/Slave Cylinder
FINALLY!!!
OK, I finally fixed my Slave Cylinder problems and yes it can be bled and no it is not necessarily mandatory to replace the Master Cylinder as well.
So it can be done (replacing Slave Cylinder only). If anyone else needs help on this I will be glad to go through my "bench bleeding" process to help you. Just Email me.
Thanks to all you guys who posted here and helped me. I am new here and this is one great web site. We not only drive the best trucks, we have the best truck owners!
OK, I finally fixed my Slave Cylinder problems and yes it can be bled and no it is not necessarily mandatory to replace the Master Cylinder as well.
So it can be done (replacing Slave Cylinder only). If anyone else needs help on this I will be glad to go through my "bench bleeding" process to help you. Just Email me.
Thanks to all you guys who posted here and helped me. I am new here and this is one great web site. We not only drive the best trucks, we have the best truck owners!
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