With a little tweaking you can adjust this to read boost as you said.
To do this, just plug in the MAP code - get a reading from it with the key in the on position but the engine off, then based on the reading changed the last 4 digits of the MTH to whatever corresponds to your reading on this table
12.7 -- FF81
12.8 -- FF80
12.9 -- FF7F
13.0 -- FF7E
13.1 -- FF7D
13.2 -- FF7C
13.3 -- FF7B
13.4 -- FF7A
13.5 -- FF79
13.6 -- FF78
13.7 -- FF77
13.8 -- FF76
13.9 -- FF75
14.0 -- FF74
14.1 -- FF73
14.2 -- FF72
14.3 -- FF71
14.4 -- FF70
14.5 -- FF6F
14.6 -- FF6E
14.7 -- FF6D
14.8 -- FF6C
14.9 -- FF6B
15.0 -- FF6A
So, for example if you got a reading of 14.5 PSI with key on engine off you'd change the MTH to 01220320FF6F and the reading should read 0.0 with key on engine off and would then show how many lbs of boost you were at when the vehicle is running.
Injector Timing Before Top Dead Center (Degrees)
"""TR - PRNDL Position. 0=fault. 1=manual 1st gear. 2=second to last position. 3=drive. 4=overdrive. 5=neutral. 6=reverse. 7=park""
""TR - PRNDL Position. 0=fault. 1=manual 1st gear. 2=second to last position. 3=drive. 4=overdrive. 5=neutral. 6=reverse. 7=park""
Manifold Air Temperature (Degrees F) NOTE: THIS SHOULD READ THE SAME AS IAT2
So say you wanted to step through the response for the Sync XGauge you'd set it up as follows
RXF: 0462150906CD (Notice the '1' in the 5th digit = display raw hex value)
RXD: 0010 (This effectively states "start from bit 0 in the response, and capture 16 bits (or two bytes) to display)
MTH: 000100010000 (This MTH is needed as it just multiplies by 1 and divides by 1 to leave the data unconverted
NAM: WD1 (Short for Word 1 so I know this is the 1st Word (word is another way of saying '2 bytes') in the response.
You can step through the whole response by using RXD's 0010, 1010, 2010, 3010, 4010.
I just test drove a nice 2006 f350 with the 6.0 and it drove great and started great we drove it around the lot and about 3-4 miles around town came back and looked around and came back to this truck we drove it again this time on the interstate for about 30 or so miles came back shut it down and when we came back it would not start they said it had a High pressure oil leak a O ring was blownand they fixed it I had them run a oasis report it came back clean and carfax clean is this common for this truck this will be my 1st diesel thanks and God Bless
Also, once you've really decided on a truck, run a Carfax or Autocheck History report to verify that the truck was in no major accidents and the number of owners. You can purchase a 30 day Autocheck that will let you run unlimited VIN checks. I did this in order weed out the negative vehicles from the start. A couple of the vehicles I looked at were in 2 or 3 accidents and had major damage. I wouldn't purchase any of those.
The other concern to look for on the report is the number of owners and how long they have owned it. I found a truck on Craigslist, the guy bought it in March and was selling it in July after putting a tuner and 22" rims on it. That should be a red flag right there. Also, I wanted either a 1 owner truck or 2 owners max. The more owners to me, tells me that people were frustrated with the truck and just selling it to get out from under it. When you get a 6-10 year old truck and it's had 5 or 6 owners, there's probably a reason. My truck had 171,000 miles on it when I bought it. The 2nd owner bought it when it had 155,000 miles. To me, if 1 owner could put up with the truck for 155,000 miles, then it must have took decent care of him. The 2nd owner owned it for 2 years and only used it to tow his motorcycles to the races. I checked the VIN report and his story checked out. This could have also backfired on me because a 'rarely used' and sitting Diesel truck can end up with more problems too.
CarFax is more detailed and will even tell you when the vehicle was at a dealership or reputable shop that reports the work being performed and what repairs were done (outside of Oasis), but the problem is the carfax reports are costly compared to Autocheck. You can buy I think 5 unique CarFax VIN reports for $49.95. If I was purchasing from a dealer, I would make it mandatory that they show me the CarFax on the vehicle.
If you run into a seller that balks at giving you the VIN to check before you come to take a look at it. Don't even bother. Move on to the next seller!
I know a lot of people laugh at this guy and say he's worthless, but in all honesty, I watched these videos 3 or 4 times before embarking on my last few trips to buy a used 6.0. I realize this is the 7.3, but I was looking for either truck. 7.3 or 6.0. This is my first Diesel and I had no idea what to look for. I know many of you guys on here already know what to look for, but the people like me who came from gassers their entire life, might find some use for them. I found them invaluable. He saved me money because I found a couple of issues using his tips and was able to get the truck cheaper by negotiating. I wore bad clothes when I went to look so that I could crawl under the truck.
I am looking at buying a newer F-250 to replace my 1994 f-250 and 1995 f-250. just not sure on getting the 6.0. I had a 7.3 super duty before and loved it but clearly I have to buy an older truck for to get that. It seems to be hard to find a gasser super duty and would prefer a diesel for hauling and for length of ownership. My problem is im not a diesel mechanic nor do I claim to be very savvy when it comes to diesels. however I like good deals and if I can get a deal on a 6.0 because its a 6.0. I would like to but I cant afford to buy problems. Any advise is greatly appreciated
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