flushing engine block need help please
#1
flushing engine block need help please
I need to flush the block, I was reading on another site that you can disconnect a heater hose, then remove lower radiator hose and just squirt the hose into the heater hose and it will flush out the block, I don't have petcoks on the block to drain, I ended up switching from green coolant to elc and don't think I got all the green out so I can imagine it turned into poop in there and I need to get it out especially since I just broke the piggy bank with that new thermostat and radiator, so please help! lol
#2
Then after everythings been drained from the radiator next is the Block!
To flush the block you need to first take the clamp off the heater core hose(should be on passenger side next to air conditioner vent which ac vent is next to glass)
Take the hose clamp off and stick a funnel into the hose and run water through the hose.Make sure block is not hot so no cracking will occur.This will flush everything completely out of the block and your on with a fresh start and fresh block flush.
*Copied from a posting on dieselstop.com*
Ok I like the idea of this method except I have no idea what hose I'm looking for, my truck has no A/C so I don't have the greatest point of reference here, I've been looking at all the hoses and whatnot near the passenger side fender and dont know what to make out of them?
QUESTION- this just popped into my head, I'm going to replace the thermostat in an hour or so, could I spray a hose into the block where the thermostat goes, obviously with the thermostat off but that would work right???
To flush the block you need to first take the clamp off the heater core hose(should be on passenger side next to air conditioner vent which ac vent is next to glass)
Take the hose clamp off and stick a funnel into the hose and run water through the hose.Make sure block is not hot so no cracking will occur.This will flush everything completely out of the block and your on with a fresh start and fresh block flush.
*Copied from a posting on dieselstop.com*
Ok I like the idea of this method except I have no idea what hose I'm looking for, my truck has no A/C so I don't have the greatest point of reference here, I've been looking at all the hoses and whatnot near the passenger side fender and dont know what to make out of them?
QUESTION- this just popped into my head, I'm going to replace the thermostat in an hour or so, could I spray a hose into the block where the thermostat goes, obviously with the thermostat off but that would work right???
#4
Although it would work, just not as well. Simply look for two hoses, about the size of a garden hose, that lead to a plastic box on the passenger side of the firewall. Locate the one that leads to the block. That is the proper hose to disconnect and run fresh water through to flush the way it describes.
#5
Hech, for that matter, flush it one way for awhile, then flush it the other way for awhile. That should really get tho old antifreeze out. What I mean is, disconnect the hose (or cut it in half and reconnect it with a hose barb) and flush by running water into the hose, then run water back thru the fitting where the hose went.
#6
#7
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i told you all you needed was a good flush not a new radiator.
you kids never listen lol.
you wont be so tempted to brake the piggy bank next time i hope lol.
there are two heater core hoses.you can't miss them.they run side by side up top into/out off the heater core (well you cant see the heater core,its in the big plastic casing of course)its on the passenger side up high on the firewall.
you want the core to be flushed too.
you kids never listen lol.
you wont be so tempted to brake the piggy bank next time i hope lol.
there are two heater core hoses.you can't miss them.they run side by side up top into/out off the heater core (well you cant see the heater core,its in the big plastic casing of course)its on the passenger side up high on the firewall.
you want the core to be flushed too.
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#8
I hope the radiator was pretty bad though when I set it down a ton of the inner fins just crumbled like dust, I'm sure getting it boiled would have taken some of the calcium crap out, but it wouldve also annialated the fins, and I flushed the thing and put in green coolant with the motorcraft sca additive stuff, only got to drive around town today need to go on the expressway tomorrow now my amp light is on, its like I can just never win
#9
if you wanna make sure its flushed well before filling it, just flush it out like they said, then fill the system with water only.... run it til the thermostat opens up, let it run for about 5 min and that will get fresh water though the whole motor and heater core. then drain and fill with coolant.
#10
I just swapped radiators today, too. Mine was just as bad as yours sounds like. The radiator was disintegrating and leaking pretty good. The replacement is a quality piece. I didn't flush the whole block but I did get about 6 gallons of nasty coolant out during the swap.
Here's a comparison of the two.
Then I replaced the driver's side window motor. Works much better now.
Here's a comparison of the two.
Then I replaced the driver's side window motor. Works much better now.
#13
what I did is because I wasnt sure, I put the thermostat housing back on with the lower rad hose disconnected and let the garden hose run for a while, then I also disconnected the heater core hose that goes to the engine block and sprayed the hose in there, got a bunch of gunk out, my truck runs nice and cool now, even when I had to move my snowplow 30 miles yesterday in the 90 degree weather my truck did not overheat
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