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Old 06-24-2010, 09:56 PM
marcograms marcograms is offline
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kingpin removal

I have slop in my kingpins and would like to replace them. I've called or stopped by all the local alignment and front end shops. None of them work on them anymore. I have a 40 ton hydraulic press in my shop and a torch. I am very confident that I can replace these myself. I know there are certain tools for kingpin removal and installation. What I don't know are the certain tool numbers applicable to my 78 f150. Do any of you guys know the tool numbers and where I can get them? My other question is whether or not these twin I beams can be aligned? Just by looking at them doesn't seem like it. They seem to be pretty solid chunks of metal. I am certain that I'll have more questions as I get further in to this project so thanks in advance.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:09 PM
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You don't really need any special tools. You can try to remove the pins without removing the axles.
Jack the truck up and support it on jackstands. Remove the wheel and brake caliper. Support the caliper by hanging it from a wire so the hose isn't under a strain. Remove the brake rotor and dust shield. Remove the tie rod end.
Now you can get to the spindle. On the top and bottom of the kingpin there are caps with grease fittings in them, unscrew both of these caps and remove them. On the front of the axle midway between the top and bottom of the kingpin there is one nut, this holds the lock pin in place. Remove the nut. Take a hammer and punch, drive the pin back and knock it out. Don't worry about damaging it, new pins and nuts come in the kingpin kit.
Now if you are lucky, and I mean really, really, really lucky, you can now take a punch and drive out the old kingpin. Chances are 95% it won't budge. If that's the case, take a torch and heat the end of the axle to expand it so you can drive the old kingpin out.
If this doesn't work you'll need to remove the axles so they can be put in a press.
To do that you will need to remove the radius arm by unscrewing the big nut that attaches the arm to the rear bracket. Then remove the bolt that goes through the front of the radius arm and the axle. This is also the lower retainer for the coil spring. Once these are removed you need to remove the pivot bolt on the opposite end of the axle. Once this is out you can drop the axle out so you can get it in the press and press out the pins. You might still have to use a lot of heat. These pins can be stubborn!
Also, forgot to mention you need to remove the shock absorbers too.
And on the bolt that holds the radius arm to the axle, remove the nut and let the axle drop down. Remove the lower spring retainer. Underneath the retainer is a second nut that you will need to remove before you can pull the bolt out and separate the axle/radius arm.
When you order the pin set you'll see there are two types. One set has metal bushings and the other type has nylon bushings. Upside for the metal bushings is as long as they are geased they'll probably last forever, the down side is you'll have to have a machine shop hone the bushings to fit the pins. The upside of the nylon is you don't have to have them honed, the downside is they don't last as long as metal. It's a personal choice.
As far as alignment, the only thing that can be set easily is toe in. To set the camber you have to bend the axles. About the only shops that can still do that are heavy truck shops. As far as caster don't know if that can be changed or not. On the plus side, with these old tanks we drive, unless it's been in an accident, the only adjustment that is needed is usually the toe in.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:25 PM
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Also mark the axles so you don't get right and left mixed up. The basic axle is the same but they are machined slighty different for the lock pin so you need to keep them side specific. The spindles and radius arms not so easy to mix up but I'd mark them right and left too, just to be on the safe side.
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:27 AM
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thatsrealnice thatsrealnice is offline
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king pins

is this the same process for a 4 wheel drive?
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Old 06-25-2010, 06:36 AM
marcograms marcograms is offline
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Thanks for the thorough instructions Mike. I ordered the MOOG parts from Oreilly. They were a little more expensive but that's what my friend that has a front end shop uses. They were the metal bushing. The machine shop that our company patronizes has an import beer friendly owner and said he would fit them. The truck has had no damage to the front end other than the inner tire wear. It takes a while to show the wear but with the price of tires I'd rather do it now. I will check the coil springs as well because it looks like my passenger is sagging a little.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by marcograms View Post
Thanks for the thorough instructions Mike. I ordered the MOOG parts from Oreilly. They were a little more expensive but that's what my friend that has a front end shop uses. They were the metal bushing. The machine shop that our company patronizes has an import beer friendly owner and said he would fit them. The truck has had no damage to the front end other than the inner tire wear. It takes a while to show the wear but with the price of tires I'd rather do it now. I will check the coil springs as well because it looks like my passenger is sagging a little.
Sounds like you have things lined up pretty well, good luck. If you ave any questions, just post them.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:29 AM
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is this the same process for a 4 wheel drive?
No, the 4WD is different. I haven't worked on 4WD.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:29 AM
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