I am picking up a 9" from a 72 f100 this weekend and want to get it ready to get it in my 53 f100. What exactly is required to install the rear end?

I know I need 3" u shaped bolts instead of 2.5" but what else is there? Anything on the driveshaft length or shocks mounts? This is my driver so trying not to be down long.

 

Seems like the ujoints are different. Lower shock mounts are different. Save them from the 9''.

 

I'm thinking a '72 will be about 3"-4" wider than the '57 - '6?...therefor the perches may have to be relocated.

 

All the above . Have fun !!!

 

This has been discussed a few times. Heres a link or two with some discussion:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...n-54-f100.html

1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles

 

I wanted to lower mine 3 inches, I have no idea what your end goal is but, you could check out my thread starting on page 6. Some of your question maybe anwsered there.
Another piece of the puzzle - Page 11 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Besides lower shock mounts and new u bolts is that is? Is there a non weld on option for the shock mounts besides doing the mid fifty axle flip? Right now I have new short and smooth springs for the rear so already doing a 3" with those.

 

get the tie plates from mid fifty (for the 3" axle).

 

Is this true? What is the best bolt in year then?

 

Not true according to my information. The 57-72 rear ends are all the same width and the perches are in the same place. That's why the 57-72 is considered a bolt-in. The 73-up is wider...

 

I agree with Vern. I've bought two '72 axles for my trucks - one 9" out of an F-100 for my F-1 and a Dana 60 out of an F-250 for my F-2. Both had identical spring perch locations and went right under the older trucks. The 9" was the exact same 61" wide as the original Dana 44. 1973 was the year that the frame width and axles got wider. Anything prior to that will work fine.

In addition to the other stuff that has been mentioned, it is fairly common for the pinion angle on the 9" to be different from the old Dana 44. This has to do with the radial position of the spring perches on the axle tubes. It is often necessary to have to add pinion shims between the springs and axles to correct this pinion angle. It's critical that this angle be correct for smooth driveline operation and good u-joint life. Here's a little light reading on the subject:

http://jniolon.clubfte.com/driveline...nephasing.html

You could measure from the center of the axle tube to the end of the yoke on each axle to check for sure, but I think that I've read where guys have found out that the 9" is a little longer and they've had to have their driveshaft shortened to maintain proper slip yoke travel. I was setting up for a different powertrain, so I never paid any attention on mine.

 

Vern and BlueOval are right about the years you can use.

The 9" I used was shorter than the Dana 41 in my 48. With the HD 3 spd trans it was as easy as buying a new slip yoke that was longer by 1 1/2". Don't know what you'll have in your '53.

Universal joints and yokes should be the same as your stock pieces.

If you can find someone parting out an F2, the shock bracket/spring plate will work with your 9" which uses 3" axle tubes also.

Napa has the shims to adjust for pinion angle.

 

you may want to look into a set of bracket and shock mounts out of a 58-60 F100. They will allow you to directly bolt in your axle and allow you to use the stock top shock mount location.

 

I recently picked up a 9" from a 68 or 69 F100 found on craigslist for $75. It has shock mounts welded on it stock. I used this same year and model rear on my '50 I built in high school back in 1978 and utilized those mounts for my rear shocks. I intend on doing the same thing again this time as well if and when I put it in the Merc.

As noted above, my rough measuring shows the 9" is about 1" shorter then the Dana 44 at the pinion. I'd like to know more about the replacement yoke and if it'd work with the LD column shift 3 speed. That would certainly save having a new shaft built.

 

I went to a local driveline shop and they had them pre-made sitting on the shelf. Only needed to know Ford, spline count and shaft diameter.

However my 3 spd HD uses the slip joint in the driveshaft like the 4 spd trans - and not on the trans output shaft.