Brake control wiring
#1
#2
#3
This is from the instructions
WARNING:
1989 - 1991 Ford Bronco, Econoline, FSuperduty,
and F150-350 Series:
• The red stoplight wire MUST splice into
the turn signal connector harness and NOT to the
stoplight switch.
• Connecting to the stoplight switch will break the
switch and result in no stoplights and no trailer
braking.
WARNING:
1989 - 1991 Ford Bronco, Econoline, FSuperduty,
and F150-350 Series:
• The red stoplight wire MUST splice into
the turn signal connector harness and NOT to the
stoplight switch.
• Connecting to the stoplight switch will break the
switch and result in no stoplights and no trailer
braking.
#4
I would say to just splice it into the wire a few inches from the switch and be done with it!!
Be sure to splice into the out put side not the hot all the time side.
The switch moves with the pedal assembly, so that is probably why they say that.. If your wires were too tight and not move enough it MIGHT cause a problem... I really think it is a cover your butt move on their part......
YMMV
Be sure to splice into the out put side not the hot all the time side.
The switch moves with the pedal assembly, so that is probably why they say that.. If your wires were too tight and not move enough it MIGHT cause a problem... I really think it is a cover your butt move on their part......
YMMV
Last edited by White 97 xlt; 06-14-2010 at 08:55 PM. Reason: Add another idea
#5
#6
The reason they say you should splice at the turn signal switch connector IIRC had something to do with the RABS. I have my P3 controller triggered by the BOO switch on the pedal and I've put many thousands of miles on this setup hauling cars all over the country, never had issues with breaking nothing.
There is something to watch out for tho - because of the way these trucks are wired when the 4-ways are engaged voltage may backfeed from the brake lights to the BOO switch, I noticed that when my converter began to unlock and re-lock with the pulsing of the 4-ways while pulling uphill behind a loaded-down semi. My converter forced-unlock relay is wired in parallel with the brake controller on the output side of the BOO switch, so if the relay got triggered by the 4-ways then so would be the controller if I was pulling a trailer at the time. I plan on addressing the issue by installing a diode on the output side of the BOO switch after the brake controller and the converter interrupter relay, this should prevent voltage backfeed from the brake lights.
There is something to watch out for tho - because of the way these trucks are wired when the 4-ways are engaged voltage may backfeed from the brake lights to the BOO switch, I noticed that when my converter began to unlock and re-lock with the pulsing of the 4-ways while pulling uphill behind a loaded-down semi. My converter forced-unlock relay is wired in parallel with the brake controller on the output side of the BOO switch, so if the relay got triggered by the 4-ways then so would be the controller if I was pulling a trailer at the time. I plan on addressing the issue by installing a diode on the output side of the BOO switch after the brake controller and the converter interrupter relay, this should prevent voltage backfeed from the brake lights.
#7
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#9
Ok great, so what wire/circuit did they want it connected to?
I checked my controller, it said to connect it to the cold side of the brake switch (I used the adapter for plug and play to the connector under the dash, so I didn't have to get that involved for a change)
#10
#11
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