Quick question,
You made reference to testing resistance between pin 6 and 13.
Pin 6 is the CAN serial data high line but pin 13 is not used (and sometimes not present). Should pin 13 still be used or is there different pin I should check?

 

I also have a 2003 F-350 6.0 that will not crank.
Makes the usual noises under the hood in the "on" position (relays & vacuum pump, etc.)
Batteries have enough power to crank it over when I put 12 volts to the yellow & blue wire near the vacuum pump, but still will not start.
Also, the glow plug indicator light that usually goes out in 1 or 2 seconds, now stays on (80° outside) while in the on position.
I checked for resistance between pin 6 and 13, but the ohm meter showed that the circuit was "open" (my diagram shows "pin 13" is unused)

As far as I can tell, it is all stock and has the Ford installed remote start and security system.
Any ideas?

 

Check your Fan sensor, trust me it took me a week to figure it out til I got the 6.0 bible. No good connection=no crank. I promise. Second one to check will do the same thing. Drivers side exhaust manifold has a stainless tube with a sensor on top of it. Check that also. no good connection=no crank.

 

you want the other can buss wire so ohm can- to can+ that should get you there. They should be second to the last two top and bottom.

 

Thanks for all of the great tips. I learned a lot about this truck in a very short time.

I checked all of the suggested sensors & relays, but was still unable to get the truck to crank.

It turned out to be one of the first things that I checked; a bad relay in the fuse panel.
I did check the voltage readings in the socket as suggested, and all was fine. The relay "clicked" when I turned the key to the crank position, so I presumed all was fine there too.

The solution turned out to be tapping lightly on each relay with a screwdriver handle while holding the key in the crank position and as soon as I tapped the 2nd relay, the truck turned over. Ford seems to use the same relay throughout the truck (about 1" cube) so I switched relays with another non-critical one (accessory) and it started right up. I ordered 10 of them, because they were only $2.00 each if you order 10 or more, and this is the second one that failed since I’ve owned the truck (the first one controlled the heater fan)

I hope this solution can help somebody else.

Thanks again

 

I like the beat on somethin till it works theory! "Long on Back, Short on Brain"

 

I have the same problem but I have replaced the ignition switch, and the starter relay. I tried jumping the yellow and blue wire got a big spark, but no crank. I use to be able to hold the key in the start position and it would start to crank after about 30 seconds now it just won’t turn over at all. My FICM is going out would that cause it to not crank? Last time I replaced the FICM I was having the same problem and it seams like it went away after the FICM was replaced. Should I buy an after market FICM like the one at Swamps or stick with the FORD FICM.
Thanks
2004 POS

 

Please tell me where I can locate the fan sensor.

Thanks.

 

Please tell me exactly which relay you are referring to.

Thank you.

 

The fan sensor is self contained in the fan clutch.

The starter relay is here:

 

After preforming most of the tests mentioned above, on my 6.0, and 2003 without succeeding inn getting the truck to crank, I decided to buy a Scanner and it threw code P2285 "Injector Control Pressure Sensor circuit low"!

Could this be the culprit?
Is this sensor designed to prevent an engine from running!?

Thank you.

 

Visually inspect the ICP sensor harness and connector for damage, corrosion, or incorrect routing.

This can cause a no-start.

Unplug it and try to re-start.

 

So what was the trouble?

 

Where would be the easiest place to reach the harness/connector and the ICP sensor itself!?

Thank you.

 

The ICP sensor is just under the alternator and towards the firewall.