I've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and reving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.

Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt, Thanks butt wipe. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm affraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.

Thanks you for the help

 

If it were me I would drill it out. If you're planning on trashing that coil anyway, you could disconnect the negative battery cable and tack a nut onto what’s left of the stripped head. Then just back it out with the appropriate sized wrench.

If you want to get real redneck with it...JB weld a long piece of metal to it and let it cure overnight. Then just unscrew it in the morning.

 

The bolt head is fine on teh coil. However, when I try and turn it out, it just spins in place not moving at all due to stripped threads.

Anyother ideas?

 

Attach something to the head of the bolt so you can pull UP firmly while unscrewing. There are still threads on the tip of the bolt.

And I'm sorry to say this, but if the gorilla stripped the the coil bolts, he probably didn't care much about proper torque on the plugs, either. If this were my truck, I'd definitely be keeping a plug kit in the tool box for when it blows out plug....

 

I tried that but I can't get the bolt up high enough. I fiure I"m gonna have to get a new coil and somehow cut the coil so I can get under this dawg-gone bolt

 

I'd have to guess that the threaded insert broke loose in the intake manifold. Your going to have to pull the bolt out, along with the insert. If you can get the insert off and it isn't too damaged, you could possibly glue the insert back in.

 

Yea, now it's a matter of HOW to pull the bolt? I ordered a comlete set of 8 coils. I think I may just disconnect the coil and find a pry bar and pult upward pressure while trying to back out the screw. I have been trying that with gentle pressure with no luck?

Any ideas of how to pull it out? Who in the hell thought of plastic as a part of the intake should be shot!

 

Well, it needs to be said that if we could keep gorillas away from them, the plastic would work just fine. Same with aluminum heads.

 

I would try to cut the head off the bolt and the pack will come right off. Past that, you will have another issue to deal with, the spun bung. You can replace the intake, or you can drill out the old brass ferrule and fill it with a two part epoxy, then drill and tap a new hole for the plug, or use a helicoil. I had this happen to one of my Mustangs, just not the coil pack but the fuel rail.

 

Who ever screwed the bolt in did not torque the crap out of it, but instead, the bolt was put in so it did not thread correctly.

And no way in hell am I taking off the intake manifold! Helicoil or epoxy is how I"m gonna go! I still don't kown exactly how I"m going to get the bolt out of the intake manifold???

Do I drill it out? use and ez out? I hate ez outs! I never have had any luck with EZouts. I call them an pain in the ****!!!

 

I've never owned a Ford before, but as of working on my F250, I"m NOT a fan! I love driving it and I bought it because they are the best work truck one can buy. BUT...... Come on Plastic intake's????? Over time, heat kills the sensors and the engineers add MORE plastic, WTF? Don't like it (plastic intakes) no matter what brand the vehicle is it just makes it easier to break things! WTF are they thinking???

 

This is a pretty common thing on the 2v mustangs. The nut-cert brakes loose in the plastic intake. Maybe cut the head of the bolt off and get the coil out of the way and get on the stud with some vist grips and get the stud and nut-cert to pull out of the intake then epoxy or jb weld it back in. Worth a shot before you get a new intake.

 

I aint getting no new intake! and it's a ****ty deisgn! Bunch of cheap son's o beothes CEO's trying to save a buck! F-ed up design!

 

Actually, there are a few other good pluses to a composite intake other than just cost, such as weight, heat, etc., but I do agree, I prefer the old aluminum intakes better. Unfortunately, most cars now have composite intakes, Camaros, imports... no exception.

 

So I'm gussing the best way to get rid of this bolt is by cutting the head, then drilling it out.

I have also considered prying the bolt out or cutting the head of the bolt off and using a center punch to get it out, but that would possibly crack the plastic intake. I"m going with plan one as stated by TennesseeMustangPerf

Now, what tools should I use to cut the head of the bolt off of the top of the coil?