So, I have replaced my inverted y steering with new inverted T steering and I have a new rag joint. The u joint has a small amount of play but it seems pretty negligible.
My steering box leaks a little bit (not much really) and I have a few hard turning spots while sitting still, but while driving everything moves freely, I would attribute this to a bad pump (most likely).
I've tried adjusting the bolt on top of the box and its helped a little but not much. I pretty much have it turned all the way in (its about a half turn out from not being able to be tightened at all any more).
So basically I'm just looking for confirmation on whether or not my steering gear box is completely shot or if I should try turning the adjusting bolt all the way in till it stops. I am just concerned that of I over adjust it to completely blow the box.

Any other advice or tips would be greatly appreciated and welcomed! Let me know if any more information is needed, I tried to be thorough with knowledge.

 

So, you say you've got some "hard turning spots" (i.e. binding?), but you're trying to adjust it in? Shouldn't you be going the other direction to fix that?

 

There is only hard turning at idle not moving. It was like this before I did any adjustments also. Its actually been like that since I bought the truck before I even did any work to it. Pretty sure its a weak pump.

 

Have you bled the system by having the tires off when bleeding? Sometimes a trouble spot can be due to an improperly bled system.

 

I haven't bled the system because my main concern is the amount of slop that's still in the steering (box primarily) and before I go through the trouble of bleeding it out I was looking for opinions on what else to do to try and pull slack outta the box or if I should just budget in for a new box (and probably pump too)

 

Are the tight spots what you're trying to solve here?

I'm skeptical on the pump as the cause - usually they either work or don't and either leak or don't; can't think of a reason the pump would work at some times and not others depending on steering angle. That sounds more like the gearbox, if it's the problem you're experiencing. Just my 2 cents...


Edit: Now, it looks like excessive slack is the problem ... pretty much the opposite of binding. At least that's moving the adjustment in the right direction though. Have you verified that the slack is in the gearbox rather than the rest of the steering linkage and/or a cracked frame?

 

Loosen the nut and adjust the screw in until the steering wheel has no play in it.. if you can't loose the slop get someone to turn the wheel as you watch the box for input/output delay and play anywhere else under the truck.. If all that fails then you likely have a faulty box

 

Do NOT mess with that nut! It only sets the preload of the sector shaft.

Over tighten it, the box may lock up tight. Backing the nut off when this occurs may not solve anything.

 

Yep ...... that adjustment has a very specific way of being set and setting it tight straight ahead can easily lead to a jambed box. When turned from center, it will tighten up more.

I am of the opinion that when you start adjusting that box, time for Red Head Steering.

Also, no need to chase slack in a steering box if there is any play in a ball joint on the drag link or tie rod.

 

Well, the advice to adjust the nut came too late, but adjusting it has done nothing anyway. The slop I'm getting is at the input shaft of the steering gear. I can get about an 1/8 turn both ways (so a 1/4 turn in total) before the gear box starts moving the pitman arm. I can grab the intermediate shaft (shaft between the column and the box, in case I got the name wrong) And twist it back and forth easily with no reaction from the pitman arm.

As for ball joint and tie rod ends, all the rod ends are new, as I stated in original post, ball joints are weathered but otherwise OK.

Also my rag joint is new, as I previously stated.

On a side note though, is there a way to eliminate the rag joint, it seems a bit pointless because I still get a fair bit of road vibrations in the steering wheel.

Also, thank you all for taking the time to try to help, but so far I'm thinking my steering gear is toast.

 

My experience with the pre-load adjustment... go easy. A little bit adjustment can help a worn box be a little bit better. Too much creates its own problems (binding & fast wear). Won't ever make the box "like new" . Suggest you back off a little on the adjustment, deal with the coupling and get a rebuilt box if its still not right.

 

I have the same problem. 76 f 250 4x4 with Bendix power assist. New pump, and cylinder. New ball joints and tie rods. New steering shaft from bottom of steering column connecting to the input of the steering box.

I tried to adjust the steering box, but it feels like where ever yo leave that screw, it always has about a quarter turn of free play. So you can turn it out a turn (or whatever) and it'll have a quarter turn freeplay back clockwise. Or if you turn it in a bunch, it'll have a quarter turn counter clockwise. Never had a steering box apart, so I'm not sure what the screw is doing or supposed to be doing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks