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Retractable Running Board problem

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  #1  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:53 AM
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Retractable Running Board problem

Sometimes the driver side running board comes out automatically and sometimes it doesn't. This just recently started. It doesn't matter if I open the front or the back door. When it's not working it's not working.

I have read in other posts if it is just one door, that sometimes you just have to spray WD40 on the door switch but on my 04' Navi,there are no switches exposed and mine doesn't work with either door anyway.

I got underneath and found a wire coming down out of the floor connecting to the floor board mechanism. I cleaned the connection with spray electrical cleaner but it did not seem to help.

Anyone have any other ideas?
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:43 AM
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The switches on the doors are in the latch mechanism and can't be seen, that's where you spray the WD-40.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:56 AM
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Ok thanks, I sprayed WD-40 on both the front and back door latch mechanisim and it seems to be working today. I will keep you posted.

I am confussed though, if it is the door switch, then it would seem the back door would still work if the front door is not unless they are wired in series.
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:29 PM
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Update, the running boards came out most of yesterday but did not work at all today. This morning when it didn't work, I resprayed but it was no help. Nothing all day.

I'm open to any other suggestions?
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Old 06-11-2010, 11:14 PM
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Running boards only working occasionally now. Does no one else have any problems with the retractable running boards??
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Old 06-19-2010, 11:40 PM
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I finally found the problem! Corrosion had collected in the wire connector that plugs into the electric motor assembly down underneath the truck.

I had to pull the motor assembly to get to the wire connector, just 4 screws, and remove the plastic shield that protects the motor assembly. I sprayed some cleaner in the connector, and probably should have put some dielectric grease in also, but I used an electrical lubricant spray instead. Reassembled and it works like new.

One word of caution, the motor assembly is marked "Dispose of if Droped", so don't drop it.
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Old 06-20-2010, 08:11 AM
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Glad you got it fixed, thanks for letting us know what the fix was.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:06 PM
racerock racerock is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalesatter View Post
I finally found the problem! Corrosion had collected in the wire connector that plugs into the electric motor assembly down underneath the truck.

I had to pull the motor assembly to get to the wire connector, just 4 screws, and remove the plastic shield that protects the motor assembly. I sprayed some cleaner in the connector, and probably should have put some dielectric grease in also, but I used an electrical lubricant spray instead. Reassembled and it works like new.

One word of caution, the motor assembly is marked "Dispose of if Droped", so don't drop it.
Are they still working? My drivers side started to hang up in the last three months. Sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster on the rotating/moving parts and arms. Helped some, but not 100%.

I doubt mine is the connector as it wants to go in or out. Seems to sense a bind, and then goes in the opposite direction. Sometimes you can here it go back and forth after closing the door. Hit it with your foot and it goes in or out all the way.

I'm thinking the whole assy is going to come off and really free up all the mechanisms in there...

Funny thing is that when I first bought this - figured it would happen one day.
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  #9  
Old 06-21-2010, 05:58 PM
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Funny you should ask if they are still working. They worked like new for 1 day. The next day they worked 1 time then that was it.

So I took the motor back out and went a little deeper. I disassembled the motor housing. I slid the black steel motor housing off the armature and blew the debris out of the brushes. Lubed the bushing with just a touch of grease, reassembled and it's working again. I don't know for how long, but its working for now.

I noticed while the motor assembly was out, there were a couple other wires that ran up to the top of the front swing arm mechanisim. You need a mirror to see on top. There are 2 wires, each one held in place with a single screw. Couriosity got the best of me because I though it could be another point of corrosion. I was able to remove the 1 screw (7mm) from one of the wires and there was a plastic encased sensor on the end of the wire. No dirt or corrosion but I assume these were the sensors that detect obstructions.

Thanks for the reply's and I'll let you know if I have anymore trouble.
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  #10  
Old 09-13-2010, 03:38 PM
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deployable power running boards

I also have a problem, sometime the running boards work and sometime they donít. I removed the armature cover from the motor to check the brushes on the motor and they are good. I cleaned he inside with electrical cleaner real good, but no luck, I can spin the armature freely, I can spin the board up and down with ease, I even applied a small amount of grease on the back bearing, I seem to think when the motor is retracting, it is spinning the board to tightly locking the motor tightly, and it can not release the tension, is there a way of telling the motor to stop spinning at a certain spot?
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:30 PM
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deployable power running board

I have fixed my deployable power running board. Here is how

Step 1. Remove the running board from truck, 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts unplug wiring.

Step 2. Remove motor cover. 2 small torque screws.

Step 3. Spray lubricant behind the circuit board to lubricate transmission.

Step 4. On rear of the hinge there is an 8mm bolt remove it and knock out aluminum wedge. Remember which way it comes out. That wedge is a keyway that makes the board move with the motor shaft.

Step 5. With the wedge removed, spray all the moving joints with lubricant and work the hinges up and down, until everything moves freely. Working the lubricant into all the joints.

Step 6. Install wedge back into place; install motor cover back on to motor. ( Make sure that the rear bearing is aligned to accept the motor shaft. you might have to wiggle it back and forth to seat the cover. Plug in wiring harness and try it out, then install it back on truck.

Very simple and easy to fix. It probably will take you less that 1 hour. I will post pictures this week when I do the other side. The side that I repaired deploys up and down twice as the other side now.


Front two nuts and one bolt


Rear two nuts and one bolt

[IMG][/IMG]
unplug wiring

[IMG][/IMG]
off truck

[IMG][/IMG]
lay something soft down so no scratches

[IMG][/IMG]
plastic sheild screws

[IMG][/IMG]
motor cover screws

[IMG][/IMG]
pull off motor cover

[IMG][/IMG]
spin shaft untill it stops, wedge bolt will be accessible

[IMG][/IMG]
remove wedge bolt

[IMG][/IMG]
pop out wedge from back side

[IMG][/IMG]
wedge

[IMG][/IMG]
this is motor shaft, note black square will make mark on wedge

[IMG][/IMG]
note mark on wedge for reintallation

[IMG][/IMG]
spray lubricant on all moving parts

[IMG][/IMG]
step on board and work up and down spraying lubricant in all joints untill moving freely

[IMG][/IMG]
spray lubricant in transmission

[IMG][/IMG]
spray electricial cleaner inside motor cover

[IMG][/IMG]
spray electricial cleaner on shaft

[IMG][/IMG]
inspect that the brushes are still good

[IMG][/IMG]
apply small amount of grease to back bearing in motor cover, use something plastic to apply grease.

[IMG][/IMG]
work bearing so it moves freely

[IMG][/IMG]
insert motor cover, you might have to wiggle it back and forth

[IMG][/IMG]
motor cover screwed in place

[IMG][/IMG]
insert wegde in place

[IMG][/IMG]
flip board over and insert wedge screw and tighten down

[IMG][/IMG]
install plastic sheild screws

[IMG][/IMG]
bring board back over to truck and plug in electric wiring and test board. reinstall all four nuts and two bolts securing board back to truck

[IMG][/IMG]
deployed

[IMG][/IMG]
board retracted, your all done saving 1600.00 bucks

Last edited by vipersinu2; 10-09-2010 at 05:04 PM. Reason: adding pictures
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2010, 07:32 AM
racerock racerock is offline
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Awesome - thanks for the guidance. We would really like the pictures. Now, to get my lift installed to do a bunch of stuff on about 5 cars that has been lining up...
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:41 PM
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Great job on the visual display vipersinu2! It's been four months since my last repair and everything is still working like new.
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:56 PM
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I was told by the dealer that there is a way to turn off the retractable running boards on a 2008 mercury mountaineer. Is this true? I don't want them to deploy, I just want them to stay out all of the time. Is there a way to deactivate them? Is is difficult or expensive to replace them?
Please help. I just have a problem with them going in and out.
Thanks
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2difor View Post
I was told by the dealer that there is a way to turn off the retractable running boards on a 2008 mercury mountaineer. Is this true? I don't want them to deploy, I just want them to stay out all of the time. Is there a way to deactivate them? Is is difficult or expensive to replace them?
Please help. I just have a problem with them going in and out.
Thanks
On an 08 - already having problems...

Well, you are in the Navigator forum - a much larger cousin to your mountaineer...But on the navi - you can go into the screen to move in and out the boards, not 100% sure if you can keep them out. As I recall if you put them out and then disable, they retract... Check it out on your on dash/screen settings.
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