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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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Old 06-06-2010, 08:41 PM
hrkdrivr hrkdrivr is offline
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Talking DieselSite Coolant Filter - Stuff I Learned - pics

2004 Excursion LTD 4x4, 6.0 PSD, 99,400 miles.

After reading about all the benefits of coolant filters, I bought the DieselSite kit, and added the ball-valves and two extra filters...total cost delivered around $170.00 for the cheapest delivery option. I ordered on a Monday night and had parts in hand by Thursday morning.

First impressions were good. High quality parts kits, plenty of coolant hose, and the aluminum assembly the filter spins onto is pretty cool; a nice block of billet bling.

Here's a pic of the completed install:

Click the image to open in full size.

The first part of the job was to install the mount to which you bolt the filter assembly. The mount fits well in its intended place. The hard part was getting the fender washer and nut onto the bolt. The bolt passes through the filter mount and then through one of the radiator brackets. The instructions say you'll need to reach behind the mount and the bracket to get the washer and nut on. I don't have huge hands, but it doesn't matter how small they are, there's NO WAY you'll get your fingers back there. A telescoping magnet did the trick for me; just enough space to get the parts onto the bolt, and then an open-end wrench fit to tighten things up.

A pic of the installed mount/filter and a closeup of where you're supposed to be able to reach. In the second picture you can see a piece of extra hose I split and put onto the mount to serve as a barrier between the mount and the AC charging line (the instructions mentioned this).

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

The next part was to splice the filter return line into the line that goes to the degass bottle. This was very straightforward. I just had to figure out where to cut so the added hose clamps didn't rub on the other hoses. The splice fits nicely over the top of the fan shroud. Big-picture view of the splice.

Click the image to open in full size.

The instructions didn't mention it, but their pictures showed how you need to add the hose clamps to this tee. If you try to put all the new hose clamps at the three parts of the tee, they won't fit because the tee is small and the clamps get in each other's ways. Take the factory clamp off the end of the line and use it in place of one of the supplied hose clamps, and move the supplied hose clamp to where the squeeze clamp was near the radiator. Pic of this...

Click the image to open in full size.

This part of the job has the potential to make a mess with coolant after you cut the line. Fortunately I was low on coolant still from when I removed the degass bottle to get to my FICM, so not too much coolant leaked out here.

The hardest part for me was splicing into the heater hose to run a line to the input part of the coolant filter. It's pretty near the firewall and the oil filler tube is in the way. After messing with it for a while, I realized the filler tube is threaded into the right valve cover and is easy to remove. Then I was worried about coolant falling into the open hole in the valve cover. I wondered if the oil filler cap was the right thread size to screw into the valve cover...it sure was! So I screwed the filler cap into the valve cover...problem solved!

Oil filler tube in the way...

Click the image to open in full size.

Oil filler tube removed...

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Oil filler cap screwed into right valve cover...yes, it's in bad shape, don't know what got onto it that is eating it up.

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After the oil filler tube was out of the way, there was a lot more room to get the heater hose removed. I took it out completely, after marking where I wanted to cut, so as to make the cuts easier and more accurate. After splicing the aluminum tee into the line and reinstalling the heater hose, I had to twist the hose clamps so they didn't rub on wiring bundles and other stuff.

Three pics of the heater hose tee installed, they're not very good because it's a hard place to take a picture with an auto-focus camera since it tries to focus on objects in the near-field sometimes rather than the tee itself.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

This splice also can make a big mess, so I had a bunch of shop towels under the hose when I pulled it. There are some wiring bundles and connections on the right valve cover bank (don't know what they are, yet) that I didn't want to get wet.

Last picture shows, roughly, how I routed the line from the heater hose to the inlet side of the filter. I tried to keep the hose away from the intercooler pipe both near the tee and going into the filter. This was made more difficult at the filter end because of the combined length of the ball valve and brass hose barb coming out of the filter housing. It looks a little silly routed through/around the AC lines, but it keeps the hose away from sharp stuff and the intercooler pipe. Easy enough to move if I need to.

Last picture with a question. This valve is on the heater hose near the aluminum tee. There's this gray line, looks like a pneumatic line, that goes into the valve. I knocked it off the valve. It doesn't look like I broke anything but it doesn't really snap back into place either. It just kinda pushes on, rubber boot over rubber nipple and it's not very secure. Is this the way it's supposed to be?

Overall the DieselSite kit is a good deal, fits well and the instructions are very plain and easy to follow. I'm no mechanic, but after fixing my FICM I'm not afraid any more to dive into stuff like this. If I can do it, anyone can!

Oh yeah, after I got this done, I had the coolant system flushed at the dealer. I'm approaching 100k miles so it was prolly time anyway. Cheers!
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:48 PM
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Piolet Piolet is offline
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Thanks for the write up. I have the same kit on its way via UPs right now. I'll use your write up to help me install mine .... Thanks again!!
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:22 PM
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I just order my kit, but I don't like the hose going over the fan shroud. Do you think that I could run it a different way? Maybe under the fan shroud using a longer hose? Your setup looks good, I'm glad that I got mine and this is wonderful write up.
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:21 PM
danocross danocross is offline
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Thanks for the good write up, should help others. Some other folks noted you can pull back the shroud that covers the back of the radiator bracket to get the difficult washer and nut on the filter bracket bolt. Also, I zip tied a chafing pad under the three hose clamps that sit on top of the upper radiator hose, just didn't like the way that looked. I cut the heater core line in place, learned you get a lot less drainage with the degass bottle closed. With the cap off, I had a mess going, cap on it pretty much stopped draining.

I got back from my first road trip with it, no runs, drips or errors. Filter still hot so I will leave it in place for now.
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:32 PM
hrkdrivr hrkdrivr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwybee22 View Post
I just order my kit, but I don't like the hose going over the fan shroud. Do you think that I could run it a different way? Maybe under the fan shroud using a longer hose? Your setup looks good, I'm glad that I got mine and this is wonderful write up.
I was worried about the hose going over the shroud too, but there's a pretty good gap between the valley in the shroud and the hood, therefore no pinching. I think if you wanted to go on top of the fan but under the shroud, I'd be worried about the fan cutting it. If you went all the way under the fan you'd have to get a lot of extra hose and I have no idea how you'd route it.

Thanks for the compliment, good luck!
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:34 PM
hrkdrivr hrkdrivr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danocross View Post
Thanks for the good write up, should help others. Some other folks noted you can pull back the shroud that covers the back of the radiator bracket to get the difficult washer and nut on the filter bracket bolt. Also, I zip tied a chafing pad under the three hose clamps that sit on top of the upper radiator hose, just didn't like the way that looked. I cut the heater core line in place, learned you get a lot less drainage with the degass bottle closed. With the cap off, I had a mess going, cap on it pretty much stopped draining.

I got back from my first road trip with it, no runs, drips or errors. Filter still hot so I will leave it in place for now.


danocross, you're welcome!

After I read this I ran out and looked under the hood. I can't believe I didn't notice that way to get at the back of the radiator bracket...duh!

I'm going to pad that joint too. Great idea.
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Old 06-11-2010, 08:38 PM
hrkdrivr hrkdrivr is offline
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First filter down...

Just got back from a 600 mile trip. Checked the filter this morning and it was clogged. I'm not sure how far into the trip it clogged.

I poured the coolant out of the filter through a coffee filter and found what I'd describe as a film of sand, nothing heavy like I've seen on other posts. Once I figure out a way to cut open the filter I'll post more pics.

Oh yeah, we went over 100,000 miles on the odo this trip! I'm such a geek I actually pulled over to take pics w/my camera phone!
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Old 06-11-2010, 09:00 PM
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amdriven2liv amdriven2liv is online now
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First, thanks for the pictures. I didn't do it while I installed mine.

Second, You must have been surprised to find the darn thing clogged!

I use a utility knife and work my way around it. Yes the blade is toast after, but using a saw of some sort, to me, creates more "sand" to the mix.


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Old 06-12-2010, 12:01 AM
Gental Ben 2 Gental Ben 2 is offline
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Great pics and info.
Installed my kit on monday & learned a lot by going slow; drained off a gallon of coolant from bottom of rad and had only a bit leak out when I cut the heater hose side. If you do go the drain route beware the plastic drain cracks at about 10lbs
Just put in a new one today. Lost a gallon that shot straight at the front diff!
Should have filmed it; pull old plug; coolant gushering out; fighting to get new plug in!!!
Yes I could have drained the system first but that takes over an hour to get it out the little drain tube.....anyway great pics and write up.
You didntmention that the top intercooler pipe comes out and rests out of the way of the opertion! I nut and a yank is all it takes.
Try it - makes the job much eaiser!!!
Will report how long it takes to plug my first filter.......
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:51 PM
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Filter installation/removal

Guys,
How do you get a filter positioned under the filter mount when all is installed. Just installed bracket,mount,ball valves and brass hose barbs. Can't seem to find a way to get filter canister positioned under mount. Too much stuff in the way.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrkdrivr View Post
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdr3885 View Post
Guys,
How do you get a filter positioned under the filter mount when all is installed. Just installed bracket,mount,ball valves and brass hose barbs. Can't seem to find a way to get filter canister positioned under mount. Too much stuff in the way.
I cannot get my filter on/off the block either, and others say the same thing. I will just remove those two 3/8" bolts and pull the billet block off the mount to change the filter. Shouldn't take 5 minutes. I've seen others say they pull their battery. Once in place it should clear everything.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:27 PM
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I don't have any problem pulling my filter off. There is enough flex in the bracket to angle it. Napa has a coolant filter # 4069 that is about an inch shorter if that will help you. #4070 is their standard length filter.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:45 PM
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If you have or plan on adding an aftermarket intercooler you may need to make some modifications.

I installed the banks intercooler package. I had to drill a hole on intercooler support arm for dieselsite to work. I also couldn't put a filter on because the intercooler pipe by passenger battery is 3.5" and stock is 3". Lol what a difference 1/2" makes. So I cut the diesel site bracket in half on the bottom and then lapped the two pieces. I also had to get a shorter bolt and cut the aluminum sleeve for the bolt down. It was easy to do with good metal blade and jigsaw. It tucked the whole assembly about an inch closer to front of truck. So now the larger filter fits with banks pipes and I can remove filters without disassembling anything. I take a pic later if I remember.

The lapped edges I bolted together with some small bolts and lock washers. Easier to drill a couple holes then drag out the welder. Lol I have no garage and work on driveway.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:56 PM
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Pics of how I routed mine!!



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Old 12-22-2010, 03:21 PM
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i also have a dieselsite coolant system that i have been using for about 4 years, i have pics in my gallery of the trash i got out of the first few coolant filters i changed.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:21 PM
 
 
 
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