Location of inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, and spindle bearing?
#1
Location of inner wheel bearing, outer wheel bearing, and spindle bearing?
So I'm in the process of installing new bearings,and I've got some more questions. It would appear that the spindle bearing is this...
,
but in the dana spicer spindle bearing kit i got, it gave me some stuff that I can't figure out how it fits.
Secondly, I'm assuming that the inner wheel bearing is the one that sits inside the back of the rotor in the picture below, but where is the outer wheel bearing? is it inside the auto locking hub?
Now i've read in a few places that these bearings are something that may be best left to a mechanic? Is there a trick that I can use to get these things out myself?
,
but in the dana spicer spindle bearing kit i got, it gave me some stuff that I can't figure out how it fits.
Secondly, I'm assuming that the inner wheel bearing is the one that sits inside the back of the rotor in the picture below, but where is the outer wheel bearing? is it inside the auto locking hub?
Now i've read in a few places that these bearings are something that may be best left to a mechanic? Is there a trick that I can use to get these things out myself?
#2
The inner beating is under the seal on the rear of the hub. Pull the seal, remove the bearing, and tap the races out with either an air chisel or a brass drift. Install new races with can be done with obviously the correct size driver but in a pinch you can carefull install with a brass drift and the old race. It helps to file/sand/whatever a small amount off the OD of the old race so you don't press it back in to the hub.
For the spindle parts... Those other bits fit on the outer stub shaft. It's been a while since I've done a IFS 44 so can't say exactly where. I'm sure someone will know, if not I can check my shop manual for an exploded diagram and such.
For the spindle parts... Those other bits fit on the outer stub shaft. It's been a while since I've done a IFS 44 so can't say exactly where. I'm sure someone will know, if not I can check my shop manual for an exploded diagram and such.
#3
Bottom pic, the outer WB goes into the visible tapered cone just below the outside splines. You took that off to get the hub off.
The inner bearing is still in the hub, visible down under the tapered cone. Like said above, it's held in by the rear seal.
Spindle bearing, is indeed the item visible in the top 2 pics.
The inner bearing is still in the hub, visible down under the tapered cone. Like said above, it's held in by the rear seal.
Spindle bearing, is indeed the item visible in the top 2 pics.
#4
ok, so now I'm making some progress. I've got the inner and spindle bearings out, housings cleaned out and ready to put the new ones in. However, I'm run into another question. The old spindle bearing on the left has a little lip on it, and is just a bit taller than the new one. Is that lip supposed to be transferred to the new bearing? In addition to that, there's no taper to the spindle bearing is there? it doesn't look like, so I'm assuming it can go in either way. Oh, and one more thing. is it usual for the race for the inner bearing to put up one heck of a fight before it comes out?
#5
#6
Pull on the lip on the wider bearing. It looks like it might come off. I have never messed with these bearings very much.
Most bearings are going to be a press fit. If the bearing is loose, it will tend to rotate where it sits, and it will eat the housing up, since it's made from very hard metal. So if it's a little snug, that's a good thing. Same with the wheel bearing races. If they are a loose fit, that's no good.
Most bearings are going to be a press fit. If the bearing is loose, it will tend to rotate where it sits, and it will eat the housing up, since it's made from very hard metal. So if it's a little snug, that's a good thing. Same with the wheel bearing races. If they are a loose fit, that's no good.
#7
yeah, that piece was just held in by dirty grease, so it comes right off. I guess I'll put that lip onto the new bearing (which is already in and quite snug), and put the seal inside it. Worse comes to worse and the axle doesn't go through, I'll just take that lip out and put the seal back in.
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#8
well after going back to broncograveyard and looking at the two different spindle rebuild kits, it looks like they gave me the kit for the wrong year. Its got 2 pieces in it that I don't need, and not the 1 piece that I do need. I guess fortunatly for me, the old seal I removed was in pretty much perfect condition. Its back in, and now I've got one spindle rebuilt, painted, and ready to go in.
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