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  #16  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:33 PM
SteevenH SteevenH is offline
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I'm glad it went well. It really isn't a difficult job.
I've done the kit thing a few times myself and with
good results as long as the leak isn't too bad. I hope you put a few ounces of oil in with your refrigerant. If you added that much coolant you had probably lost some oil also. It's important for the compressor to have oil. Good Luck.
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  #17  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:39 PM
lucky57 lucky57 is offline
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Recharge for AC

I have been very lucky the AC is now working.
I looked at AutpZone, but I did not see AC Oil?
How much should I add?
I'm sure it's a small amount.
Somewhere I read about this, but they mentioned only if the system was completely down.
The AC does not make noise when in park, and the AC holds the cold in idle very well.

Thanks,
Ron
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2010, 09:39 AM
SteevenH SteevenH is offline
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It usually comes in a can that looks like refrigerant. Usually only a few ounces is enough.
You might want to wait and check your system later. If you start getting lower pressure than recommended, then you can add more r134a with
the oil already in it in the correct proportion. It
should be available at the parts store.
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  #19  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:18 PM
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Thanks Again

Once again great info here was trying to locate the low pressure nipple I have a 2000 F150 SC as I need to add a bit of oil and charge its blowing cool at idle and cold on the highway, also I have a small ticking as the compressor runs (either low on oil or its on its way out).

So once again TY guys for the info was able to find the low side nipple and 1 PAG charge quieted the tick about 50%, PSI is at about 35 gonna throw another PAG (only got about a 1/3 of the oil in cause I'm a noob :P) and 1 can of R134 and see what I get.
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:24 PM
projectSHO89 projectSHO89 is offline
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Some compressors will really rattle when there isn't enough refrigerant in the system.

Unfortunately, the only way to know how much oil and refrigerant is in the system is to completely drain it and start from an empty system.
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  #21  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:43 PM
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Cool TY for the info this F150 has over 250K on her and has been a bit neglected (Have already replace intake manifold that was leaking and did the COP's and Injectors while I was in their) shes running great now with the help of this forum just trying to iron out the little things now.

So TY again guys it's much appreciated
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  #22  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:39 AM
fshfanatic fshfanatic is offline
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I was noticing my AC temps wouldnt go below 44 degrees. I went to AutoZone, bought a can of A/C Pro and it was blowing at 34 degrees in 12 minutes.

Cost?? 44 bucks
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  #23  
Old 07-30-2012, 08:33 PM
Tim Knowles Tim Knowles is offline
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A/c on 2001 ford f150 is blowing very hot air. It had worked properly 4 hours ago. Any likely answers to this ? Thanks
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  #24  
Old 07-30-2012, 09:02 PM
projectSHO89 projectSHO89 is offline
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See FAQs. Link in my signature.
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  #25  
Old 03-16-2013, 01:39 PM
Airies77 Airies77 is offline
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THe real question

Everyone here talks around the the questions AC systems are not complicated as long as yoi follow procedures Im working on a friends truck. I am certified I have a machine that recycles. my problem label is messed up so I dont know the correct amount needed to recharge. the books dont tell you because as far as im concerned it is a racket to have to pay some one to do something because they are certified. FYI go to EPA Test .com read learn test. You know meet the standards required. certification is $20.00 the machine to do it right is the big cost.
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  #26  
Old 03-16-2013, 04:18 PM
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You have a leak in the system. Take it to a pro. Adding freon is just a bandaid
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  #27  
Old 03-16-2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airies77 View Post
. I am certified Then you should already know the answer


I have a machine that recycles. my problem label is messed up so I dont know the correct amount needed to recharge. the books dont tell you because as far as im concerned it is a racket to have to pay some one to do something because they are certified.
Wait, I thought you were certified

FYI go to EPA Test .com read learn test. You know meet the standards required. certification is $20.00 the machine to do it right is the big cost.

Go for the certification. see if it holds up when the EPA fines someone $20k.. I am certified, there is a reason people pay a certified guy to do it. It will be done correctly, and legally.

I am not trying to be rude, but trying to cut this corner will be a waste of money.
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  #28  
Old 03-17-2013, 01:38 PM
Airies77 Airies77 is offline
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Hello

I am certified I do follow required procedures like recovering Refrigerant prior to opening a system. And if you go to EPATEST.COM anyone can pull down there training and take there test and meet all EPA requirements for certification. FYI Here is My number 919D7916E0F0E4FD1. When it comes to dealing with the government agencies I do it everyday.

Still have not been able to get how much R-134 does the 2001 F150 with the Triton 5.4 needs.

You are rude when you dont know the facts
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  #29  
Old 03-17-2013, 03:26 PM
projectSHO89 projectSHO89 is offline
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Next time, please start a new thread that is limited to the question you have instead of resurrecting an old, unrelated thread. Please keep the unnecessary commentary and opinions somewhere else.

Politely asking someone who has the vehicle in question to go look at their label will get you a lot better assistance instead of coming across like an opinionated twit in your initial posts in a new forum.

Seriously, if you actually own a machine that costs $5-7K but don't have a clue on how to find out what the refrigerant charge for any vehicle is, you've probably wasted the cost of the machine and the $20 test.
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  #30  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:48 PM
Airies77 Airies77 is offline
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FYI the smallest system i work on takes 5.5 lbs R134. MRAPS I have a Robinair Cool-Tech 34700Z You have no clue. I serve those who give you your freedom.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:48 PM
 
 
 
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