New motor and tranny not quite right
#1
New motor and tranny not quite right
Hello all,
I recently put a new long block (302) and auto trans into my 91 f150. Got it back and it ran horribly. Stalling, no power, black soot pouring from the tailpipes and 4 mpg when I could keep it running. Checked the fuel pressure regulator and it was bad. Replaced it and truck stopped stalling, but still had terrible fuel mileage and no power. I advanced the timing quite a bit by ear to compensate. Checked the o2 and it was shot from the regulator dumping fuel. Changed the o2 and map sensor. Fuel mileage went up to about 9 mpg and it is driveable at freeway speeds now, but still smells rich, and doesn't have the power it had before the swap. Does anyone have any ideas because I am fresh out! Would over advancing the timing rob me of power?
I've sunk over $4000 into this truck to have a strong running and reliable pickup at this point and i am worse off than before. I would really appreciate any advice or thoughts you might have. I'm at my whits end at this point.
Thanks All,
Jack
I recently put a new long block (302) and auto trans into my 91 f150. Got it back and it ran horribly. Stalling, no power, black soot pouring from the tailpipes and 4 mpg when I could keep it running. Checked the fuel pressure regulator and it was bad. Replaced it and truck stopped stalling, but still had terrible fuel mileage and no power. I advanced the timing quite a bit by ear to compensate. Checked the o2 and it was shot from the regulator dumping fuel. Changed the o2 and map sensor. Fuel mileage went up to about 9 mpg and it is driveable at freeway speeds now, but still smells rich, and doesn't have the power it had before the swap. Does anyone have any ideas because I am fresh out! Would over advancing the timing rob me of power?
I've sunk over $4000 into this truck to have a strong running and reliable pickup at this point and i am worse off than before. I would really appreciate any advice or thoughts you might have. I'm at my whits end at this point.
Thanks All,
Jack
#2
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
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Hello all,
I recently put a new long block (302) and auto trans into my 91 f150. Got it back and it ran horribly. Stalling, no power, black soot pouring from the tailpipes and 4 mpg when I could keep it running. Checked the fuel pressure regulator and it was bad. Replaced it and truck stopped stalling, but still had terrible fuel mileage and no power. I advanced the timing quite a bit by ear to compensate. Checked the o2 and it was shot from the regulator dumping fuel. Changed the o2 and map sensor. Fuel mileage went up to about 9 mpg and it is driveable at freeway speeds now, but still smells rich, and doesn't have the power it had before the swap. Does anyone have any ideas because I am fresh out! Would over advancing the timing rob me of power?
I've sunk over $4000 into this truck to have a strong running and reliable pickup at this point and i am worse off than before. I would really appreciate any advice or thoughts you might have. I'm at my whits end at this point.
Thanks All,
Jack
I recently put a new long block (302) and auto trans into my 91 f150. Got it back and it ran horribly. Stalling, no power, black soot pouring from the tailpipes and 4 mpg when I could keep it running. Checked the fuel pressure regulator and it was bad. Replaced it and truck stopped stalling, but still had terrible fuel mileage and no power. I advanced the timing quite a bit by ear to compensate. Checked the o2 and it was shot from the regulator dumping fuel. Changed the o2 and map sensor. Fuel mileage went up to about 9 mpg and it is driveable at freeway speeds now, but still smells rich, and doesn't have the power it had before the swap. Does anyone have any ideas because I am fresh out! Would over advancing the timing rob me of power?
I've sunk over $4000 into this truck to have a strong running and reliable pickup at this point and i am worse off than before. I would really appreciate any advice or thoughts you might have. I'm at my whits end at this point.
Thanks All,
Jack
#3
Any time you replace a sensor, disconnect the battery for 5 mins. I would run error code scans first, at least the KOEO scan if possible. Replacing parts w/o E/C scans is like making all your shots from the 3-point line. After you're now knee deep in replacement parts, it's tempting to think your shot percentage has to improve because there aren't that many left. But, $22. will almost painlessly get you a lot closer to making the right shot. A real time & money saver! Equus Innova 3145 OBD-I Ford Scan Tool You can do in manually, counting flashes, but for a few bucks, digital numeric display w/ memory! All fords 81'-95 EEC-IV/OBD-1.
I'm gonna get one of them for my 92, do you think that I should get the extension?
#5
I've tried running both the koeo and koer using my Solus Pro. And it tells me that there is no power detected at the harness. I forgot about pulling the leads though, that's a great idea. I will try it and post results. Obviously, there's a break in the wiring harness leading to the obd1 connector, I will also try running that down when I get to the shop tomorrow.
Thanks for the feedback! Keep 'em coming please, neither I nor my mechanics can figure this one out. Does anyone know the flash sequence for pulling the codes through the dash ?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback! Keep 'em coming please, neither I nor my mechanics can figure this one out. Does anyone know the flash sequence for pulling the codes through the dash ?
Thanks again!
Last edited by Tattooedmick; 06-06-2010 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Because I can't spell worth a #%^*
#6
Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test Here is how to pull the codes without a code reader if that is what you mean.
I would also check for a restricted exhaust (plugged cat), if not already done.
I would also check for a restricted exhaust (plugged cat), if not already done.
#7
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