1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck
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Hey guys, this is my first post and I appreciate the help all the threads have already given me. I have an issue with a new to me 86 F150 302 EFI. Starts up fine. Drives good 20 minutes and then dies. I know you've heard this problem before but I just changed the stator and TFI module today. Throw me some suggestions and I'm all over it.
Does it run normally up to the point where it dies, or does it start to run rough and get worse until it dies?
One thing that can make it die when warm is a bad temp sender. When the temp sender fails, the computer things the engine is cold all the time. Runs fine cold, but as the engine warms up it can't handle the rich mixture and eventually floods out.
Short bed pickups are like ***** on your ex-wife: if they are dressed up they may LOOK nice, but that's all they are good for!
If you want a TRUCK, buy a long bed. If you want a GROCERY GETTER, buy a Taurus. Short beds are just rolling parts donors.
Well since I changed the stator the timing may be slightly off but it does idle up and down just slightly. It doesn't idle down to the point of being rough, it just surges a bit.
When it shuts off it sounds just like turning the key off. Yesterday I drove it around a bit and then parked it in the driveway. It did the up and down idle for about ten minutes and then shut off while sitting by itself unmanned. It didn't sputter at all, just cut right off.
A few days back when I got it started back up after shutting off it would buck and surge and I had to feather the gas to keep it from stalling, which it eventually did anyway.
I sound like I'm all over the place but I'm just hoping any info at all can help you guys help me. I greatly appreciate it.
First thing to do is figure out if its an ignition or fuel problem. When it dies hold the coil wire 1/4" away from ground while cranking and watch for spark. Spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner in the intake will make it run if you have a no fuel condition.
92 F250 4x4 7.3idi zf5 3.55's Meyer plow
86 F350 2wd C&C Dump 351w C6 4.10s Meyer plow
The rest of my signature changed as to not offend some liberal crybaby.
I'm pretty sure it's the BWD brand from Advance Auto Parts. I'll be checking for spark and fuel next time I stall it out. Problem being it often starts right back up, but I'll get back on here and let you guys know what I find.
as others have said check to determine if this is fuel or spark issue...
that being said I picked up an 86 f150 w/ 302 efi about a month ago and spent way to long with the same problem...
long story short I dropped the tanks and the two rubber lines that connect the in tank fuel pumps to the lines were completely shot... everything was fine when the rubber was cold but once they warmed up and expanded there was not enough fuel pressure to run the engine...
I have the same problem, I have an 86 f250 with 302 fi...I have not replaced the stator as you have but I have replaced TPS (thrtl pos sens), EVP, (egr pos sensor), TFI module, IAT. Typical tune up stuff replaced dist cap router, plugs wires, pvc. I posted a few times on this site looking for help but was unable to get information to fix issue. I took it to my mechanic three times & his final decision was that the wiring harness in engine compartment needs to be replaced. I was unable to find a replacement harness & went head first into attempting to repair the wiring harness & now have a truck that does not run. I do have some advice, if you look through my past posts it will show you how to pull codes from the computer with a test light. I would start there, maybe you will have better luck than me..... PS I did test the coil & it tested good, I tested MAP sensor & it tested bad, being how expensive MAP is & I was a bit unsure of my results I went for the wiring harness...wrong move on my part...Good luck
I have the EXACT SAME PROBLEM. I have replaced the EGR valve, Solenoid that read the EGR valves vacuum, (threw that code so I replaced it), cleaned the Throttle body and IAC thingy (don't know Fords term), cut slivers into the exhaust before the cat (thought they were clogged), I have ran DTC time and time again and it always says 11 or pass off and running. It started doing it more now that I had installed the thermostat (dad had previously removed it), I am at a stump. I am running out of ideas. I know it's heat related but WHAT?!
My 86 efi 302 only surges when I first start it, then when it's warm it's fine, must be the way it is designed. Also after running it for a bit when it's good and warm it has troubles starting like it's getting heatsoaked, weird. I too had a mess of wires that were messed up, I replaced every questionable wire and plug and over half my harness is new now and it seems to work good now. Computer controlled cars are crazy you fix one thing and it was hiding ten other issues.
To answer CBRich, from my experience when a truck dies after warm it's typically either the egr is not working or the catalytic convertor is plugged. I work on alot of cars so I don't remember, but if the egr has a vacuum line put a screw or something in it and see if it works any better that way. I believe they also make egr eliminator kits at I think it's fordfuelinjection.com I think that is a better way to instead of worrying about when the egr will go out.
1961 Ford Falcon Tudor Deluxe, 1961 Mercury Meteor 800 4 dr, 1966 Mercury Parklane 2dr, 1990 Dodge B250 Van. And lost without a pickup.
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