Hi. I am currently nearing the very last stages of what has been an extremely complicated and lengthy restoration of a 79 150. Transmissions going in this weekend, doing metalwork on the second door (last of the bodywork) today, and when I recently looked at my to do list, I was very pleasantly suprised to find that I was actually really close to running out of things to do! I was excited about this for a little while, until the thought crossed my mind that once all the easy work was done (the mechanical, the stuff I like and understand), I would have no choice but to move on to the step that I've been dreading, and puting off any way I can through the whole project, final bodywork and paint. I obviously want to see it done, and see all my work finally pay off with a beautiful end product, but the cost, the effort, and the time that I know painting is going to take, has me a little worried about how I'm ever going to make it happen, and so I've come here looking for technical help, and alot of advice.
The truck right now is all together, and the steel of all the body pieces is now good.
Some panels are decent original paint, one door is slopped in about an 8th of an inch of drippy blobby seafoam green, most pieces have alot of primer on them, and it is all old, uneven, cracking, and of different shades, many of the pieces also have repaired sections courtesy of me, where all the welds have been ground down and everything is as smooth as I'm going to get it, but no body filler has yet been applied. The main take away message from this is that the truck is currently finished horribly, and the finish is as far as possible from consistent over the whole vehicle.
For paint, I want something that is going to not only look great, but protect my truck for a long time. I don't think however that I am going to dissassemble the whole body and have the panels painted completely, front and back, no matter who does it.
I have access to an HVLP paint gun, and I have a garage to work in. I can learn stuff quickly and take great care when I work, but don't know the first thing about painting a car. I'm trying to decide whether to paint the truck myself, or send it out and have it done. My questions are: How long (very ballpark is fine, I have literaly noo idea) would it take me to take my truck from it's current state, to finished doing it myself, and how long would it take a pro? Could I do a decent job that I would want to look at for the next 15 years my first time painting? And (the big one) which option should I do, and how much will I be able to achieve for 1000$, final bodywork to clearcoat total cost?
Consider yourselves warned, the extent of what I know about this subject is what I've seen on TV, I'm gunna ask alot of beginner questions, but I really want to get this truck DONE and I would love to be able to do it all myself. Give me all of your thoughts, thanks, AleX.

 

This site will keep you busy reading for awhile: Auto body and car paint tips, techniques, and information If I did it anyone can. I can screw it up a whole lot cheaper than the paint jobs I have had done.

 

What he said. Here's a few tips:
First, visit a few websites such as Kevin Tetz's Paintucation - Paint Your Own Car! and browse around, maybe even post a question or two.
Next, buy a couple books and or videos on the subject. Lots out there, my favorites are the Paintucation series for vids and Jon Kosmoski's books. They are all geared towards guys like us and very well laid out.
Last, just do it. You can read until you go blind, but nothing's getting done until you do it. Learn by doing and keep reffereing to the books and videos to answer your questions as you go.
Can you do it? Yep. Just pay attention to details and don't settle for "close enough" when it comes to block sanding and bodywork. Go in the house when you get tired or fed up. Make small steps and you'll be done before you know it.
As far as cost, here's a little tip: shop around. I painted my Mustang using House of Kolor stuff and the total cost was (I think) about $1500 or so. I really never added up the reciepts, but I think that's fair. I could have easily done it cheaper if I had it to do over again, but I'd never used their stuff before. I used about 6 quarts of epoxy primer, and most of it got block-sanded off. I used 2 quarts of sealer, 5 quarts of color, and 6 quarts of clear. Again, I could've done it cheaper and used less product, but I was learning as I went. I also went through over a quart of catalyst and a gallon of reducer.
House of Kolor stuff is top-notch and VERY reasonably priced. As you can see, I used a LOT of material on this car. For comparison, I recently repaired my brother's Dodge Dakota after a fender-bender. I used 1 quart of DuPont Chroma-Base, one quart of clear and one quart of epoxy primer. Total Cost: $380. That's unreal if you ask me. One quart of House of Kolor base is about $28. One quart of Dupont Chroma-Base (red) was $179. I wasn't exactly thrilled with the DuPont stuff, either. So shop around and look into several brands before you buy and you can meet your budget.

 

OK, thanks for the info both of you guys. I've been looking around in what time I've had, and I am getting a general sense of what I need to do, slowly, but it's coming along. I think I want to try and tackle this. At this point in the truck I've been through the engine, transmission, whole body, brakes, steering, front end, exhaust, rear suspension, and even cleaned up and painted some parts of the frame. I'm feeling more and more that I'd really be losing something if I didn't put the final touch (also the part that everyone who doesn't know the work I've put in will judge the truck by) on to this, so I think I'm going to try. I have a little bit more work to do, but I'd say in a week or 2 I'm going to start in on this.
One last general question though, the estimate on cost was very helpful, but do you have an estimate on time? Just very ballpark is fine like I said, but is this going to be a week of full days or a month, from my dirty, assembled, caked paint truck now, to a dry, reassmbled product? I'm a college student with 2 and a half months of summer left, and a job, and my truck caaaan't be unfinished when the end of August rolls around, and can't be off the road for too long this summer either.
Thanks for sharing your experience, it's gunna make my decision in the next week or so, AleX

 

I'd say its going to be pretty tough for any of us to give you an estimate on time. Alot of it depends on how nice you want it. If you want it awesome, you have to take the extra time. If you want it done asap and just want a decent driver you could cut that time in half. My friend and I have experience, and we took about 7 days total to strip a Bronco, paint it, and put it back together. But that's 2 of us and a Bronco is tiny. I'd say on average plan on at least a couple weeks if you want it really nice. There's gonna be guys that'll tell you you can do it in a day, like Maaco, but it'll look like Maaco did it.

 

Haha right, if I would have had in in my mind whatsoeeeever that it would take a day, I would have done it toooday haha. I may have a buddy helping me, but as you point out, neither of us will have experience, and he probably won't even know as much as me after I do all the research and everything. A week would be reasonable for my schedule, two would be pushing it, so I'm going to have to think about this I guess. But thanks for a rough idea at least, everything helps, and more input from anybody else is appreciated. Thanks, AleX

 

Just an opinion. The truck is already stripped (chrome, bumpers etc.) Since you are young, and able to devote all day everyday to the job, you should be able to get it done in two weeks. Thats allowing for enough time. That doesn't mean beer breaks, get serious with it. Air sanders will speed up the first part, but the blocking is what takes time and gives you the quality you want. The actual painting part is by far the easiest and quickest part. Enjoy, it's nice to say you did it yourself. Even if not a show quality job.

 

I'm going through this process also. I just finished blocking the last coat of primer 20 minutes ago. My plan was to do all the body work myself and have someone else paint it......but after the countless hours I have into getting the bodywork just perfect, I feel like putting the color on can't be half as hard as the bodywork. Is this true? I keep thinking that if the color is the easy part, why not do it myself and be able to say I did the WHOLE job. I've had guys give me a price of $3000 to lay the color and clear on, I think that's outrageous! Am I out of line? Like was said above, take your time and get your body work perfect. I actually ended up sanding a spot that I had done, back down to bare metal because it wasn't perfect, and It turned out perfect the second time. Be patient though. Right now I'm at the point where I never want to see another piece of sandpaper again! It's a TON of work but like was said.....take a break, walk away, and go at it again. Good luck!

 

You are 100% correct. Bodywork is hard, painting is easy. If you've blocked the bodywork out (and you should) then you likely have shot a few coats of primer by this time, so you know how to (A) use and adjust a paint gun, and (B) you have developed a "pattern" on how to shoot the vehicle. Both are important because you need to know how to compensate for a problem as well as lay the paint on in an even fashion. Here's my method and please don't take this as the last word in painting or as the only way it can possibly be done.
Once you are POSITIVE you have everything just right and the bodywork is nice and straight as well as all the gaps are even and there are no chips or bare spots then you are ready to paint. I prefer House of Kolor and they use a sealer, DuPont does not, so this is a little different. If you use a sealer, wipe the car down with a post sanding cleaner and a clean, damp (not wet) cloth and wipe it dry as you go with anothoer clean, dry cloth. While it's drying completely, open a tack rag, unfold it and let it air out. Next, I mix the sealer with the catalyst and reducer. Once it's mixed, I stir thoroughly, I set the air pressure at the gun (gun empty, just pull the trigger and adjust the regulator)then fill the gun. While the sealer is draining, tack the car down, moving slowly to avoid kicking up dust. Some guys blow the car off at the same time, I do not because I paint in my garage and while I get it as clean as I can, blowing crap all over will drift around and land in the paint later.
Next, I put the lid on the gun, connect the air hose to the gun (I never fill a gun hooked to air, it's too easy for the hose to pull it off the stand if you trip over the hose) and test the pattern on a piece of masking paper taped to the wall. If all is well, shoot the sealer just like you did the final primer. My method is driver's roof first, starting at the far left of the roof and ending in the middle, then walk around to the passengers side, and start where you left off, in the center of the roof. This allows the product to blend in better. Once the roof is done, move on to the hood, doing the same thing, ending at the center, then walking around and beginning at the center and working outward. Next do the trunk area, most trunks are short enough to be shot from the rear, working from the bottom of the rear window and working your way towards you. Next go to a side and start at one end and make ONE COMPLETE PASS from end to end, then move down and make another pass, repeating as you work your way downward. I NEVER Shoot the side of a fender, the move down and shoot the door, then the rear quarter. Wherever you end is also where you start and the paint will be thicker where they meet and that makes it a chance it will also be darker, especially if your shooting metallic. Learn to walk from end to end without tripping on the hose. Let the sealer dry for an hour or so, then come back and do the base, letting it flash between coats. Shoot light coats and don't try to cover in one coat or make it shine, base isn't supposed to shine and if it does, you run a good risk of a run in the base. Not good. Once you have good coverage (count on three coats) go over the WHOLE car with a good light and look for places you missed. Look under fender lips, bottoms of the rockers, under drip rails and anywhere else. If you missed a spot, hold the gun about a foot back and lightly touch up an area about twice the size of the bare spot. Now clean the gun and go watch TV for about an hour. NEVER rush to get the clear on because this will trap the solvents in the base and next week you'll see some stuff that looks like blisters in your new paint where the unvented solvents are coming out. You generally have up to 24 hrs to apply clear (check your brand of clear) so there is no reason to rush. After your hour nap, look over your base once more, GENTLY tack if off with a tack rag and mix the clear. I over reduce a bit, but that's because I'm lazy and hate to color-sand orange peel. Once it's mixed and the correct size tip is in the gun, simply shoot the clear on like the base, with the excetion of shooting it a bit heavier. Keep some sharp tweezers on hand for the ever-present bugs that are in the booth or garage and don't have a heart attck if you get a run. By the way, if you're shooting DuPont, good luck getting a run, it dries so flippin' fast I'm surpised it doesn't bounce off the car like BB's. I shoot two medium clear coats and one very wet coat. Once you're done, clean the gun and get out of the booth. Never stand around admiring your work, all you'll do is kick up dust or trip and fall into the car. What's done is done and any boo-boos can be fixed later. Also, never allow anyone in the booth with you. It's a huge health risk and a distraction and absolutely no good will come of it. You can paint a car, truck or whatever, all you need is a plan and some confidence.

 

oh yeah, here's another tip in case you aren't blind from reading my last post: buy a few of those disposable Tykvek paint suits and some good-fitting rubber gloves like the nurses wear when they feel you up. The paint suits keep all your hair and stuff from adding texture to your paint job and the gloves will keep your body from absorbing the extremely toxic reducer and catalysts into your system. Dead people don't get to enjoy their nice paint jobs!

 

Hey thanks sandman, I have another question. I am torn between painting all the pieces and then putting them on, or painting the hidden spots (inside fenders, under hood, door jambs, ect.) then hanging fenders and doors and final painting with everything assembled. Someone told me to paint everything and then assemble so I don't have paint lines but you know it's inevitable that something bad will happen! And also do you wet sand the color or just spray the clear and buff? Thanks for the excellent advice.

 

Very good question. If you're doing a color change, then you need to paint the jambs somehow. Personally, here's my method: on solids, it's typically safe to paint in pieces. With metallics, it's best to paint just the jambs, then reassemble, then do your final painting. Either way, try to mix all your base at once (paint stores sell new, one-gallon cans) if it's metallic. If it's solid, then just measure as carefully as you can when mixing. In fact, ALWAYS measure EVERYTHING, never guess, that way when you have to touch it up in a few years, you'll know the color will match because you measured last time. Also, if you have a choice of adding catalyst to the base or not adding it (DuPont can be done either way), then don't add it. That way you can save your un-catalyzed base for as long as you need to for future mishaps and you can be sure it's identical.
As for the buffing, never sand uncleared base, it'll show through the clear. That's a good reason to not shoot base heavily. The lighter the coat, the quiicker it dries. The quicker it dries, the less chance any airborne trash will get trapped in it. If you're worried about orange peel in the base, you don't need to, base usually lays down VERY nice as long as you use the right tip and air pressure and lay down light coats. If you want to really impress your buddies (and who doesn't?) then by all means color sand and buff. It's cheap and easy, but time-consuming. The trick is to lay on enough clear to work with ( I use three clear coats) and don't get too carried away sanding. I start with 800 grit wet, knock the tops off, but don't completely flatten it yet, then go to 1000 grit, 1500, 2000, and finally 2500 or 3000 if you can find it. I use soapy water and dry it often to make sure I don't accidently sand into the base. Stay away from edges at all costs. Once you're that far, get a buffer (not a grinder) that has a "soft-start" feature as well as variable speed and a good pad. You don't need to spend a milliion dollars on a buffer, either. I got mine off ebay for $55 a few years ago. But don't skimp on the pad, I use cut wool because it's faster, but some guys use foam. I also prefer 3M's Perfect it III compound, but there's lots of stuff out there. Buff in the shade and use a slow RPM and keep the pad as flat as possible. Look up buffing on YouTube sometime, there's a ton of good tips on there. Finish it off with a hand glaze and some carnuba wax then wait for all your freinds to ask you to paint there car. Of course they expect it for free, like all good freinds. Hope this helps!

 

Hey sandman, what do you think about high priced paint? I've been thinking of goin with ppg but it's pricey. I know there are cheaper paints out there but I always figure you get what you pay for, and after all the time and money I have into this thing I want a finish that will last.

 

I've never used PPG so I can't say one way or the other. I have used their budget line, "Omni" before and found it to be good stuff. I think any reputable brand (DuPont, PPG, Valspar, House of Kolor) is going to be fine. Every painter I've ever met has their own preferences and their own reasons for hating everything else. I happen to like House of Kolor but honestly have never talked to another painter that does. I like the price (very reasonable!), color selection, ease of use and durablity. My '67 has been on the road now for nearly four years and doesn't even have one chip. It's by far the best-looking clear with the most depth out of anything I've ever seen, yet most painters I know despise the stuff. Why? Who Knows? Painters are a weird bunch, me included. It is not the easiest stuff to clean out of the gun, but I've found that if I use House of Kolor's reducer, it cleans right up, no problem. Now ordinary gun cleaner is about $9 a gallon, whereas HoK's reducer is over $50, but then again I ain't using a whole gallon to clean my gun! It buffs so easy and looks so beautiful that to me it's insane not to use it. The drawback is that they don't make paint to match factory colors, so for that I typically use Dupont. I use it over other "factory" brands because I know the local store guy, and it seems to last. Expensive? You better beleive it is. Does it match? As long as you are able to provide your counter guy with a vin# it'll match. Durable? I guess so, but I think House of Kolor is much more durable. While you do get what you pay for in anything, if you stick with a well-known brand and ask the counter guy and a couple other painters you may know, you'll get some guidelines on what you need as far as price, appearance and durablity. Just don't be surprised when one guys advice directly contradicts the others. Hope this helps, Jim

 

Here's a shot of my car right after I laid on the stripes and cleared it. I only wish you could see the unreal depth and complete lack of orange peel. A few weeks later I buffed it out and it was even better, the car litterally glows in the sunlight, despite being white. It's not because I'm some wizard with a paint gun, either. I just read the instructions on the can and follow them. House of Kolor is my choice for this reason. I don't take pictures of anything I've ever done with Dupont before I buff...