Well, here's my view! One of the greatest attributes of Synthetic is also it's Achilles Heel. The same properties that enables superior thermal transfer abilities, also detracts from it's abilities to provide cold start protection. Synth. beads off hot surfaces, Dino oil wicks into hot surfaces. So, although Synthetic wins hands down after reaching operating temps., it literally leaves much to be desired up in the top end for cold starts (when & where it is really needed). Synth.Oil Stabilizer more than makes up for this detractive tendency. "Royal Purple" claims to have addressed this problem in it's formulation. Good for them if true! I know Lucas Synthetic Stabilizer does, regardless of the brand it's added to, so I error on the side of safety! And because I run a fairly aggressive Base time, My Engine deserves it! We could debate the definition of a "supplement" verses an "Additive", but I'm done.

 

Where are you getting this from?

 

His hindquarters, more than likely.

The synthetics are made to flow at cold temperatures based on the weight of the oil, same as conventional. Also, conventional oils do not "seep into" the metal, if that's what you're implying.

 

Yep yep! 100% Synthetic in the Camaro. I have a problem with boiling the PS fluid on canyon carving runs or AutoX track runs. Even with the synthetic.

I have the timing on the truck advanced to around 18* and it still passed emissions with flying colors!! Thought the nox were gonna be high. But I think a lot of it is all the Seafoam this truck has seen. Killed a lot of the carbon on the heads and the combustion chamber and the top of the cyl bore.

 

Gee, you sound like an expert witness! Oil does not penetrate? That's not worth a rebuttal. We should just leave this as a difference of opinion, before someone gets rude. In your case, it's already too late.

 

wut ? is just a troll , he allways leaves remarks like that to get something started , best not to feed the trolls .....Lew

 

I'm still not getting you and I haven't been rude ... yet. Penetrating oils don't go into the metal, they wick between them, like between a bolt and screw. Also, motor oil, either conventional or synthetic, is going to be too thick to be much good as a penetrating oil. There's a reason products like Kroil and PB Blaster are so thin.

Also, could you explain what you mean by synthetic oils beading up on hot surfaces? I've never heard anyone claim that before.

 

Or I just know what I'm talking about and don't mince words when people make ridiculous claims.

 

Thanks for the heads up!

 

Bad timing, but you deserve a reply. I'm be back! I'll see if I can find the article(s). There's a picture of the author. Tall shinny guy, w/ horned rimmed glasses & a pocket protector w/ an I.D. card attached. Looks like he's never been laid. Obviously an expert in his field!

I hope this doesn't come down to my shortcomings to adequately articulate my position, but I wouldn't be the first time! Plain old Semantic differences would be better!

 

The only real difference between the synthetic and conventional is that the synthetic is more consistent in its formulation as opposed to being just refined. They are made to have the same viscosity at the same temperatures so flow characteristics and how they cling to parts are going to be the same. Also, adding any friction modifier such as lucas will destroy a motorcycle clutch, if anyone is thinking of doing this in a bike. The additives the oil leaves the factory with are all you need. If you need an additive, you're just covering up a real problem.

 

 

My truck has had Mobil 1 10W30 since the day it was bought.

 

Synthetic is man made. It is consistent and will not turn to water-like surface tension when it is under extreme pressures and heat. Synthetics do no "sludge" up an engine either. Sludge is a bi-product of dyno oil when it is overheated. If you have sludge issues, you have other problems at hand like head cooling since that is the hottest point is the top of the heads above the CC. Agreed that the Cyl walls are a hot point too, but anyway.

And I've used Lucas once on a 4-banger I had and it was fine, but tried it in my Camaro when I bought it and I had insane valvetrain noise. Drained it and never touched the stuff again. I won't even use the fuel system cleaner. Sea-foam is all I need as far as that.

And I agree you don't need additives with a quality Full Synthetic oil.

 

Ok well I thought I would add that if you are running synthetic you guys are fine to run 10K! I have been running Mobil1 5w30 in my little commuter car for 6 years now 10K oil changes and 5k filter changes. You get the same protection as Amsoil and cost is a ton lower... The only thing I am currently fustrated with is that Wal-Mart quit carrying the long lasting 15K protection in 5qt jugs for less than $25!!!! my rebuild 351w will be getting 10w30 changes at 10K just like the car and Wix filters every 5K.

Either way you go car guys know that synthetic is the best oil you can get for your engine (except for breaking in a new engine that is...)