I must disagree and agree. I think this is a perfect time for me to learn how to do this. I am a hands on DIY'er. I like to learn things the hard way(trial and error).

But I don't have unlimited funds right now, so I am not in the position to be buying a lot of stuff.

I think I'm going to give napa a call and see how they can help me with what they have; I'll call around for prices, but they seem to be the best when working with customization.

 

I'm all about learning new stuff and building skills. For that matter, I get a big kick out of sharing the knowledge that I do have with others as well. Making a good double flare is not rocket science and it's something that every gearhead ought to learn how to do at some point. But you admitted in a post just a few hours ago that you didn't even know what a double flare was. This really isn't a good place to try to learn how to do something new if you really aren't even sure what the procedure is or what the end result should look like. I and several others have attempted to get across just how critical it is for there to be PERFECTION in every part of a single circuit hydraulic brake system. Your room for rotten lines, worn out parts, and substandard "trial and error" double flares is zip, zero, zilch, nada. You have no backup system like cars built since 1967 have. One minor failure is all it takes before you careen through an intersection and cream a busload of kids.

I really think that it's in your best interest to build your lines from pre-flared sections. It will cost less, it will take a fraction of the time, and as long as you get all the lines tightened properly, it will work right the first time. If you are determined to bend them up from a coil of tube and make your own flares, then AT LEAST take a few samples of your handiwork to a trained mechanic and have him give you an opinion on the quality.

 

^^Hahaha, you thought I meant "trial & error" by putting it on the truck and screwing myself, didn't you? Should've been more clear.....

I mean by getting a piece of pre-flared pipe and looking at it and practicing until my work look identical(suggestion by some post). hahahahaha

I like to learn things the hard way, but not THAT hard.
---------------
Ironically, my father recently took a brake/suspension class and told me about how old brake systems are non-failsafe systems and that I should upgrade to the newer ones.

What consists of this upgrade, and is it that hard? It sounds like something seriously worth investing in.

 

This thread is scary!

 

heres something that might help... it's written for a disc brake install but the fundamentals of flaring and bending are there...hope it clears up some things for you

later
John
http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...iscbrakes.html

 

I would guess he's talking about a dual-circuit master cylinder. Not a bad idea, and you have to replace the rear brake line as part of the job, but it's going to cost you a couple hundred at a minimum. You would have to re-do the front brake lines too.

Have you called the local Midas or Meineke brake shops to see if they can make up brake lines? If thee is a NAPA Machine Shop in town they may do it too.

 

“‬What we have here is failure to communicate”‬. ‬ I apologize. ‬I thought you were looking for an efficient and effective solution to a problem.

After bending a rusty old brake line and snapping it, ‬you expressed frustration and asked for a quick, ‬easy, ‬and affordable solution.

I was not aware that you wanted to do things the “‬hard” ‬way. ‬Yes, ‬the School of Hard Knocks is a great teacher but also one from which many never graduate. ‬Somewhere down the road you will learn that wise judgment trumps drive & ‬determination.

The progression of this thread has gone from a simple fix of a broken brake line to a complete re-plumb job with home made flares to the exploration of dual master cylinder setup.

I must have missed the turn at ‬Albuquerque. ‬I will not stand in the way of your dreams or your truck.

 

You know, I have had this nagging feeling for awhile now and it’s getting stronger……………………………I wonder who mOROTBREATH really is?

 

I have experienced total brake failure on a vehicle with single circuit system when a line failed when I was much younger and that was the standard system. Believe me when I say it is NOT an experience I EVER want to have again! "Emergency" (auto engineers inside joke name for the parking brake) brake combined with shutting off the engine in gear (manual tranny, fergitit with an automatic) did little and took a LOOOOONG time to slow down from 30 MPH. Didn't completely stop until I rolled thru the red light and bumped the guy in the intersection, good thing the horn worked well, he understood and stopped so I only tapped his bumper, and I wasn't going any faster!!!
That experience is why I am so adament about brake safety.
A dual circuit system is 10,000 times safer and well worth the investment especially now that you are replacing the MC and lines, the cost and effort difference would be minimal.
All that is different is using a dual circuit MC for drum/drum brakes (you'll likely need a mounting adapter, the mounting bolt pattern/size changed from your old MC as well as the pushrod) and the line routing. Instead of a splitter, there are two ports on the MC, one for the front brake line and one for the rear. The front line is run to a T fitting at the front crossmember where one leg is plumbed to the flex hose connection for the left front wheel and the other leg is run across the back side of the crossmember to the flex hose fitting on the right side. It should be a matter of pride of workmanship to run the tubing straight and smoothly with clean smooth bends (tubing bender is inexpensive and the new tubing much easier to bend with one) routing it along a protected path inside the frame rail or along the side of a crossmenber and support it so it doesn't vibrate or flex while driving.
Replace the rubber flex hoses while replacing the hard line, especially if they show ANY signs of age cracking at the ends or along their length. VERY CHEAP insurance!
As others have already said, the brake system is the most critical system in the vehicle, it's too late AFTER the accident to say "I wish I had spent the few extra dollars to do it right", when telling a family why their loved one will not be coming home.

Give Morobreath a break (brake?) guys. He's young but is eager to learn, even if a bit stubborn, he tends to come around to reason after a while. Things tend to look easier (or sometimes more complicated) than they are when you have never done it before or have had anyone explain the process, ramifications and pitfalls in detail.

 

moROT... I'll admit, I'm pretty inexperienced with the wrenches. Therefore, I really am in no position to offer you mechanical advice. There are plenty of experts here for that. But, for what it's worth, I can offer some general advice that works OK for me: (1) when you feel you're getting good advice from well-informed sources, stop and listen carefully to it--it's easy to fall back on old familiar ways--much better to learn to do it right (2) when on a tight budget, save up, gather all the supplies to do the job, then tackle it when you have what you need to do it completely and (3) read all you can about whatever it is you're attempting to do--I'm finding a lot of this stuff isn't that difficult once you really understand how it works.

The setup I'm using works so well that I have chosen not to install a Clifford manifold and bigger carb that I got from another motor, because it would interfere with my brake master cylinder. Adding the manifold & carb and going a little faster would be nice, but knowing I will stop when I push the brake pedal is a lot nicer. I got this dual-diaphragm, dual-resevior, drum/drum power brake booster from ebay for $200(plus lines, hoses, fittings, etc.)



It's a bolt-in unit, made for my truck--I'm sure they have them for your truck. I know you're on a budget--but your truck, unsafe as it is, is not your daily driver, right? It sucks to have your truck out of service for any length of time, but if you have access to another car, I wouldn't drive the truck until the entire brake system is repaired right, rather than just patched together. Good Luck.

 

I'm not Julie.
I am tired of running from peoples instant suggestions.......

I can only do so much.....this truck was meant to be a beat-up work-truck that'd get me from A-to-B while I was working on my other car and or needed a truck for utility.

I never considered and concourse restoration, or a resto-mod project, and it's just not going to happen......

I hate to upset anyone....but I can't keep following this domino game of stuff to do. Even if it is "for the greater good". ...Maybe I choose to not be good enough(because I can't), I don't know.....

I am considering this master cylinder upgrade for a later time, I cannot and guarantee will not do it this time around.

Ehhh. Thanks all for the help. I'll be busy tomorrow until the afternoon, and that's when I'll stop by Napa and call the other places around town to start finalizing my options.

Thank you.

 

You asked a question, we gave you sound advice. You seemed to want to "fight" the right answers. Not quite sure why you asked if you simply refuse to accept answers that don't support your "way of doing business."

You're in a philisophical bubble of excuses that doesn't seem to be allowing you to accept and implement proper technical action based on sound experienced advice - from MANY people.

If that's what you want to do and accept the danger for yourself, then so be it - go ahead and kill your self. Problem is your attitude and carelessnes are presenting a potential danger for other innocent people and that's what upsets folks.

Who does it and how you do it is up to you - and your responsibility. But you need to get your brakes up to speed before you drive that truck on the roads with other people. And if you can't do it, them take it somewher to have it done. Otherwise you need to stay OFF the roads.


Hey Old F1...let me guess....Son of ALANCO!

 

mOROTBREATH,
calm down, we want you to be around for a long time (here and in this world) so we get adament when it comes to safety. We have all been (or still are) where you are as far as working on a tight budget, and I for one would never suggest spending money unnecessarily, I'm a tightwad and avid DIYer.
I'll say it once more, the brakes are the MOST critical parts on your truck, trusting 50 year old parts is playing Russian roulette with your life and the life of others. Cut corners anywhere else, but don't cut corners on the brakes. Brake parts are not that expensive not to use new all the way thru, and buying pre flared steel line is cheaper by far than buying a double flare tool (all the less expensive ones, even big names, are junk IMHO). I have a Snap-on, but only 1 in a 1/2 doz attempts produces a good flare, so I buy my lines preflared rather than throwing away a lot of steel line.
I'd feel a lot better with you using a single circuit MC with all new lines, hoses and wheel cylinders than a dual circuit with old parts in the rest of the system, plus it will be much easier than fighting with rusted tight fittings and bleed nuts. There is a lot of pressure in the lines when you step on the brakes!
One other thing, don't use any type thread sealant or tape on brake line fittings. If the threads leak, you have a major problem, and it isn't with the threads.

 

is there not a tech school, boces, or a competent mechanic in your area that can show, teach you this???? i KNOW there is!!! utilize your assets. ask those that can show you the right way, and stop the crap!

 

The reason i put power disk brakes on my truck was from an experience i had coming home from the Columbus Good Guys in 2007. A person pulled out in front of me from a side road as i was travelling about 50-55 mph. I jammed on the brakes so hard that my right knee hurt for a month afterwards. Fortunatly i got slowed down enough and nothing happened other than being scared s***less.
Right after that i bought the disc brake system and have been happy ever since.
The only thing i would do different would be to get the remote fill master cylinder because it is a pain to check the fluid level.

Terry