2004 - 2008 F1502004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Ford F150's with 5.4 V8, 4.6 V8 or 4.2 V6 engine
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I'm heard about spark plugs being broken when puled out. I have 70 000 km/ 43 000 miles on my truck and I thought it might be a good idea to remove them or replace them before they get seized by carbon build up.
1. Has anybody have spark plugs broken while removing them at this milage?
2. What would be the best replacement spark plug?
I tried to search the forum with no result for 07 models.
broken plugs is a common problem with all the 04+ 5.4's, although it's not as big of a problem now because most repituable shops know how do change the plugs without breaking them. There is also some good tools avaliable now to remove plugs if they break. Run a search on spark plugs and you should get alot of info.
Read the long series of posts on the problem, linked below. Read all, because there is a wide variety of viewpoints that you should be exposed to. I will amend my comments then to now say that I have been convinced to give more weight to the nickel anti-sieze being effective. It also appears that the MC/Autolite plugs have been somewhat improved from the first generation, but there are still reports of them breaking the second time around.
The key to this is that if you do it yourself, get the Lisle tool and the TSB. If you take it to a shop, don't assume they know the problem. Make sure they do. Ask them what their success rate is. If they doom and gloom you in order to change a higher price, go elsewhere. For a tech with the tools and the knowledge, it's not a huge deal. More than a normal change, sure... especially if one breaks, and that makes it cost more (blame it on Ford and Allied Signal), but some shops use it as an excuse to bend over customers.
Finally, if you go with the one-piece Champions, which I recommend, it's VITAL that you replace the COP/Plug boots at the same time. The MCs and the Champs have different body profiles... the Champ being smaller. If you put an old, heat-formed MC on an Champ, you may get misfires due to the spark jumping past the loose boot.
I don't think you necessarily increase your odds of no broken plugs by doing it too early. Use up what you got first. I have it on good authority that, despite the 100K factory recommendations, the factory plugs are well on their way to being "used up" in the 60-80K range on a truck that sees a lot of short hop and in town driving. Wait until that point, at least. If yours has mostly highway miles, the 100K likely works out fine. If you use a good combustion deposit cleaning gas (the Top Tier brands... google it), or use a deposit removing additive like Techron or V-Power, or get an injector/ combustion chamber cleaning done, you greatly increase the odds of the plugs coming out in one piece. Watch the Sept issue of Four Wheeler magazine for a story on the 3V modular spark plug issue.
Recluse; You don't see many posts for the 07 model because only a few of them have reached that point where plugs should be changed. However the 07's use the same heads as the earlier 3 valve engines. There was a change made in December, 2007 but those will be 2008 models. I'm inclined to agree with you though. Change them now with the Champions and change the boots like Jim Allen says. Not getting your full value out of the oem plugs is a small price to pay to prevent the headache of broken plugs, just my opinion. But follow the latest TSB.
2007 F150 XLT SCREW 4 X 4, 5.4, 3.73 LIMITED SLIP, TOW PACKAGE. CHROME DOOR HANDLES TRUXEDO TONNEAU COVER, TTT TOW MIRRORS.
"I would rather push a Ford than drive anything made by GM."
My understanding is that the Champion is a welded together plug where the Motocraft in crimped.
Incorrect... at least in regards to the Champion. Take a look at the link provided in my earlier post and look for my posting there. To save time, here is the skinny on how the Champs are made.
The Champion plug is not welded and the body is made from a single piece of metal. The groove you see on the body of the plug, with the discolored strip, is called a hot lock ring. That groove is machined into it. After the porcelain is installed, the body goes into a roller device and about 10,000 psi is applied along with high current to heat it and that slightly compresses the body around the porcelain to hold it place. That process also turns the metal blue, leaving the impression of a weld.
I have been told, but have not verified as yet, that the MC and Autolite have been improved in some way (welding?), though they are still two-piece and, apparently, still can break/separate.
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