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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #91  
Old 05-29-2013, 09:59 PM
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raystankewitz raystankewitz is offline
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My 0.02 USD worth . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty_Sasquatch View Post
This evening I plugged my multimeter into the #5&6 position of the female connector under the hood. When first connected (P) was reading 1 until I turned the meter to the 200k position then it varied from 23-29. (R) read 1453 steady. (N) read 753 steady. (D) read from high 400's all the way passed 2000. (2) read 212 steady. (1) read 87 steady. I went back to (P) and it bounced around in the high 70's while in the 200k setting. Then I went back to (D) a couple more times getting a reading of 410 then 424.

So, what I saw was a major inconsistency both in (P) and (D) even tho (D) eventually ended up in a good range.

Any thoughts??
Once again subford, thanks for the diagrams!
Those readings indicate a bad MLPS and that will cause shifting trouble.

IMHO, it's time for a new MLPS.

Ray
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  #92  
Old 05-30-2013, 08:16 PM
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Mighty_Sasquatch Mighty_Sasquatch is offline
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Well I called NAPA and told them I needed an MLPS and they had no idea what the hell I was talking about. Is this a dealer item only? Should I trust anything other than motor craft someone else can get it?
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  #93  
Old 05-30-2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty_Sasquatch View Post
Well I called NAPA and told them I needed an MLPS and they had no idea what the hell I was talking about. Is this a dealer item only? Should I trust anything other than motor craft someone else can get it?
if your looking for this sensor for your E40D transmission,tell the parts counter person your looking for the neutral safety switch.
wait for them to find it and they should then ask c6 or E40D.if they don't ask,inform them they still haven't found the correct location in their computer yet.
if they come back with a tiny switch,tell them they need to try again.it looks like this:
Click the image to open in full size.

if the parts counter person is still lost,you may need to explain the sensor.
inform them it's the "transmission range sensor" & "neutral safety switch" in one.


p.s.
if your new MLPS doesn't simply plug in.don't be alarmed.that wouldn't necessarily mean they gave you the wrong sensor.it could just mean your in for some tedious fun!
post here if the replacement doesn't plug in (or follow the instructions,but as far as i know,only motorcraft mlps comes with it.)
disregard this section of the post and count your blessings if it simply plugs right back in like nothing ever seems wrongs.just meant someone before you had the joy of re-pinning for the updated ('95 style) connector.
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  #94  
Old 06-02-2013, 03:52 PM
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Awesome........ Looking forward to that repining |:-/
I did manage to get one on order from Napa. Just took me physically driving there and showing them a picture of it. Should be in Monday. As soon as I get it I'll post what I find as far as the connector goes. Thanks guys.
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  #95  
Old 06-02-2013, 04:40 PM
norfolknova norfolknova is offline
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When I changed the MLPS on my 92 F250 I opted to spend the extra $25 and bought the updated wiring harness, Then I just cut, spliced, soldered, and heat shrinked the wires. I found that to be much easier than trying to mess around with the pins laying under the truck in a gravel drive way

matt
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  #96  
Old 06-03-2013, 11:09 PM
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I got my sensor today from Napa and it did come with the new harness connector and instructions to re-pin it. Your right Ray, it is VERY tedious!! Laying on your back with arms in the air that long is "zero" fun. But alas, it is re-pinned. Now for the dumb part... The new sensor is shaped totally different from the old one, I'm sure you know this. My question, since I can't seem to find a picture of it installed, is - how is it supposed to sit when bolted up?? Brown or black plastic side out? Connector facing forward or backward? It seems to bolt on a couple different ways. Are the neutral line-up marks supposed to be visible from the driver side once bolted up or is it supposed to be hidden facing the transmission?
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  #97  
Old 06-04-2013, 01:27 AM
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The alignment marks will face outward. Look at the post a few above this one. That is correct orientation.

Marks out, bulk of switch on top.

Ray
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  #98  
Old 06-04-2013, 08:51 PM
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Ok so I'm not a "complete" retard. The sensor is wrong. The one pictured above (the one I got by showing said picture to the parts guy) must be for a 2WD I'm guessing. When you guys said the sensor had a different connection I just figured the whole thing had been updated. Last night when I looked at it things weren't adding up and today when I put it on the harness plug lands right in the way of the 4WD linkage. Got the other one coming in tomorrow. Hopefully the harness is the same. I really don't want to re-pin it a 2nd time :-\
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  #99  
Old 06-04-2013, 09:03 PM
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nah thats a random pic brother.our plugs go straight up.the parts guy should have used that just to help him figure out when he found the right part is all.not tried to just pull sensors off the self to try and match one haha.
that was just to show you what it basically looks like is all,and as reference with how to line the marks up while trans is in N to get correct voltages/resistance values so ecm knows which gears your in.

the book/computer should have shown him the part # for your truck.

in fact yeah,in 30 seconds i see it online by searching for "Neutral Safety Switch" as i noted above.

Part Number: ECH NS6528
Product Line: Echlin Ignition Parts
Warranty: 36 Months or 36,000 Miles Whichever Occurs First

Warranty PDF
Important Information: w/ 20 Bolt Transmission Pan
w/ 4 Speed Trans
Click the image to open in full size.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...528_0373992937

my main point was to tell him it may be under "neutral safety switch,but it looks like the pic and not to let him sell you something like this which also comes up in his computer,which is for the C6 trans:
Click the image to open in full size.

but it didn't work.my bad!sorry man.i would never had guessed he would have just lost his computer and went 100% by the pic.
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  #100  
Old 06-04-2013, 09:10 PM
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Ya that's it. I saw that pic also. Can't believe they seriously had a miserable time trying to figure it out. As if I asked the meaning to life question. If I thought I had to do their job for them I would have yanked the sensor and shown them. Hopefully they got the right one coming in. Kind of a pain in the ars riding back and forth on the bike in almost 100 degree weather. Would like the option to take the truck.
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  #101  
Old 06-04-2013, 09:18 PM
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[/QUOTE]but it didn't work.my bad!sorry man.i would never had guessed he would have just lost his computer and went 100% by the pic.[/QUOTE]

Its all good bro, not a big deal at all. I just appreciate having you guys available to bounce questions off of. I'd be much further behind with much more money/time wasted without the answers I get here. Hopefully we got it now and tomorrow the poopy hand I've been dealt will start to change.
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  #102  
Old 06-05-2013, 09:03 PM
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I installed the new MLP tonight and tested it with the meter. All gears now land about dead center in the acceptable ohm range where drive and park earlier had inconsistent readings. Took Ol' Sasquatch out for a drive and 27 miles later she's still shifting smooth. Hopefully that did it.

For my next question...... Would any of you put the stock PSOM back in?? I would prefer to have the stock mileage.
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  #103  
Old 06-05-2013, 10:42 PM
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I would drive it for a while just make sure and then put it back in.
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  #104  
Old 06-14-2013, 11:10 PM
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First of all, a MAJOR THANKS to all those who guided me thru the diagnosis of these problems I was experiencing. After a couple of days of driving it I have finally determined what was causing the shifting problems.

1. I believe the speed sensor could have possibly been bad because once replaced the speedo started bouncing badly. Seems with the proper signal the PSOM had issues.

2. The Neutral Safety Switch was the main cause of my problems. This bad sensor made my transmission clutch when it wasn't supposed to, slam back into gear and change gears at inconsistent rpm/speed ranges.

3. The PSOM was also bad. With the new PSOM and Neutral Safety Switch it shifted smoothly and accurately. I drove it a few days like this and had no problems. Then I swapped back to my original PSOM and it shifted hard, not like it did with the Neutral Safety messing up, but more rough than desired and the speedo jumped again. Went back to the new PSOM and she's golden again.

So, in my situation:
Bad PSOM - caused rough shifting thru all gears and speedo needle jump mostly at 50-60mph

Bad Neutral Safety - caused random clutching followed by neck breaking re-engagement, very hard irregular shifts and lack of power with feeling of hesitations.

Possible bad Speed Sensor - speedo/PSOM didn't start bouncing until this was replaced.
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  #105  
Old 08-19-2014, 06:21 PM
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Shifting problem

I had the same problem.
It turned out to be a dirty connection at the wiring harness connection at the transmission.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:21 PM
 
 
 
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