Rewiring my 1960 F100 Custom Cab
#16
#17
#18
Summer Reading
Just got back from 3 days R&R in beautiful Redondo Beach, CA. While there I picked up this book:
...available at Borders, I highly recommend it for those new to automotive electrical like me. I read it cover-to-cover 3 times. The author presents everything in a way that made complete sense to me. A great resource in my opinion.
...available at Borders, I highly recommend it for those new to automotive electrical like me. I read it cover-to-cover 3 times. The author presents everything in a way that made complete sense to me. A great resource in my opinion.
#20
#21
transmission trouble
OK, maybe I should change the name of this thread to "Restoring my 1960 Custom Cab", because when I see something that needs to be addressed, I can't seem to let it be. Anyway, my plan for this past weekend was to finally be able to spend some rare, uninterrupted time working on the truck. I've decided to pull the motor out, clean out the water passages (which I've suspected for some time may be clogged to some degree), install new freeze plugs(my local NAPA has brass feeze plugs in stock), clean/seal/paint the motor, finish painting the engine bay, frame, steering linkage, etc and then continue with the wiring. So Friday night I pulled the drive shaft out, cleaned it up and painted it. Then, as I was pulling the transmission out, I heard this voice yelling at me, saying, "What the $%@& are you doing working on the pile of crap on a Friday night?" Turned out to be a surprise visit from an old college buddy that was in town for a convention. It sure was good to spend the weekend with him, but obviously I didn't get much done on the truck. I did manage to get the hood off, which was a real PIA by myself in the 108 degree heat!
When I got the transmission out, I noticed that the input shaft had quite a bit of play in it. I replaced the clutch maybe 6 months ago and used the alignment tool that came with the new clutch. I also resurfaced the flywheel and used a new pilot bearing. I hadn't noticed any noise or thumping during recent drives, but obviously something has caused the bearing supporting the input shaft to become sloppy. What would cause this besides a loose-fitting pilot bearing? As I recall, I test fit the bearing when I replaced the clutch and it was snug...also, how easy a fix is replacing that bearing, if that's all it is? I've never torn apart a transmission, but I'm not really afraid to try. I also have another 3-speed transmission available to me that could possibly work as a replacement. It looks exactly like my original, except that it has a long tailshaft housing on the back of it. The casting numbers differ as well. My original reads: AF-7006-D 20, while the other reads: 27 AF-7006-D. If this is a car transmission, might it have a more street friendly first gear? Does the tailshaft housing just slip on to the output shaft of the trans directly, so that if I removed that housing the female, splined end of my driveshaft would hook right back up? The dimensions of the 2 transmissions appear to be the same.
Hood removed...
...after wrapping myself into a pretzel shape several times, I decided to remove the seat for easier access to the wires under the dash...
...here is the new fuel tank I installed...
the painted driveshaft...
... I appreciate any info provided on the transmission...
Hey, I just thought of something while previewing this post...when I changed my clutch, I didn't own a torque wrench at the time, I've since bought 2 of them a 3/8" and a 1/2" drive. Could the cause of the bearing play be that I didn't "guess" good enough when tightening down my flywheel, so that it might be spinning slightly unbalanced? Just a thought...
When I got the transmission out, I noticed that the input shaft had quite a bit of play in it. I replaced the clutch maybe 6 months ago and used the alignment tool that came with the new clutch. I also resurfaced the flywheel and used a new pilot bearing. I hadn't noticed any noise or thumping during recent drives, but obviously something has caused the bearing supporting the input shaft to become sloppy. What would cause this besides a loose-fitting pilot bearing? As I recall, I test fit the bearing when I replaced the clutch and it was snug...also, how easy a fix is replacing that bearing, if that's all it is? I've never torn apart a transmission, but I'm not really afraid to try. I also have another 3-speed transmission available to me that could possibly work as a replacement. It looks exactly like my original, except that it has a long tailshaft housing on the back of it. The casting numbers differ as well. My original reads: AF-7006-D 20, while the other reads: 27 AF-7006-D. If this is a car transmission, might it have a more street friendly first gear? Does the tailshaft housing just slip on to the output shaft of the trans directly, so that if I removed that housing the female, splined end of my driveshaft would hook right back up? The dimensions of the 2 transmissions appear to be the same.
Hood removed...
...after wrapping myself into a pretzel shape several times, I decided to remove the seat for easier access to the wires under the dash...
...here is the new fuel tank I installed...
the painted driveshaft...
... I appreciate any info provided on the transmission...
Hey, I just thought of something while previewing this post...when I changed my clutch, I didn't own a torque wrench at the time, I've since bought 2 of them a 3/8" and a 1/2" drive. Could the cause of the bearing play be that I didn't "guess" good enough when tightening down my flywheel, so that it might be spinning slightly unbalanced? Just a thought...
#23
UPDATE
Got the motor out and to the machine shop. Almost finished cleaning up engine bay, etc...just about ready for paint. A few questions:
1. Would it be OK to drill 3/16" holes in either side of the bottom of the crossmember that supports the rear of the motor as weep holes? I just removed decades of crud from this thing and want to be able to spray out the engine bay in the future and have these areas drain. The structure looks plenty beefy enough to me, but would appreciate some other opinions. In the photo, where the water has accumulated...
2. Learned how to disassemble the 3-speed trans (I have a spare w/bad gears).
I now have the input shaft out. This shaft had no play in it when the retainer was on. If, when I open up the other transmission(the one with the wobbly input shaft), everything besides the input shaft bearing looks good, would it be OK to just swap the two input shaft assemblies--or is it better practice to have the bad bearing pressed off the original shaft and a new one pressed on?
3. I feel confident now that I can disassemble/reassemble my original transmission...except--how do I keep the rollers in place inside the input shaft? Vaseline? Grease? The manual just says to install them...any tips or tricks passed on regarding this are appreciated...
1. Would it be OK to drill 3/16" holes in either side of the bottom of the crossmember that supports the rear of the motor as weep holes? I just removed decades of crud from this thing and want to be able to spray out the engine bay in the future and have these areas drain. The structure looks plenty beefy enough to me, but would appreciate some other opinions. In the photo, where the water has accumulated...
2. Learned how to disassemble the 3-speed trans (I have a spare w/bad gears).
I now have the input shaft out. This shaft had no play in it when the retainer was on. If, when I open up the other transmission(the one with the wobbly input shaft), everything besides the input shaft bearing looks good, would it be OK to just swap the two input shaft assemblies--or is it better practice to have the bad bearing pressed off the original shaft and a new one pressed on?
3. I feel confident now that I can disassemble/reassemble my original transmission...except--how do I keep the rollers in place inside the input shaft? Vaseline? Grease? The manual just says to install them...any tips or tricks passed on regarding this are appreciated...
#24
Just a suggestion: you might want to start new threads about all these different items. You'll probably get better responses that talking about your transmission in a thread titled wiring. You'll probably find the last roller kind of "Snaps in" anyway and they will be a little tight.
On an inside surface, hold the bearings in with grease. On an outside surface ..the trick is...when you re-install the roller bearings back in that cage (like the freewheeling unit in an overdrive transmission), you use a rubber band to hold it all together.
The rubber band will snap apart the first time the O/D is engaged.
On an inside surface, hold the bearings in with grease. On an outside surface ..the trick is...when you re-install the roller bearings back in that cage (like the freewheeling unit in an overdrive transmission), you use a rubber band to hold it all together.
The rubber band will snap apart the first time the O/D is engaged.
#25
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