'51 F-1 Spring Under Conversion???
#1
'51 F-1 Spring Under Conversion???
I searched several pages of threads using the search bar, but I didn't find anything about this (maybe that means it's a dumb idea?). I'm coming from a four-wheeling background when it comes to trucks, so i'm used to lifting them and throwing big tires under there, but i'm ready to make a street truck.
So instead of the usual off-road Spring over conversion, I see the springs are on top of these trucks, what about a spring under conversion? It looks like it would get me a few good inches lower and it should keep the same stance I have now between the front and rear.
Has anyone tried this on here? Any drive angle problems? Would you have to have the driveshaft shortened a little?
TIA - You guys know your stuff and are the best!
So instead of the usual off-road Spring over conversion, I see the springs are on top of these trucks, what about a spring under conversion? It looks like it would get me a few good inches lower and it should keep the same stance I have now between the front and rear.
Has anyone tried this on here? Any drive angle problems? Would you have to have the driveshaft shortened a little?
TIA - You guys know your stuff and are the best!
#2
I did exactly that to my 51 F1. I can't remember if I have before and after pics in my gallery but I removed the rear springs, cut the spring perches off and welded new perches on the bottom of the axle. I also took a couple of leafs out of each spring and ended up with a 9 inch drop. I believe when you weld in the new perches you want to have a 4* angle for the drive shaft. Hopefully others will come along and help out with this question. Good luck.
#3
I did exactly that to my 51 F1. I can't remember if I have before and after pics in my gallery but I removed the rear springs, cut the spring perches off and welded new perches on the bottom of the axle. I also took a couple of leafs out of each spring and ended up with a 9 inch drop. I believe when you weld in the new perches you want to have a 4* angle for the drive shaft. Hopefully others will come along and help out with this question. Good luck.
#4
There are posts about this, I will see if I can find it at work this afternoon. The drop is considerable, I have not finished doing mine using mustang springs and a 9 inch but it must be close to that, its loooooooooooooow. (like a snakes belly in a wagon track).
The pinion angle should not exceed 3 degrees, I think.
The pinion angle should not exceed 3 degrees, I think.
#5
#7
I have an after picture in the garage section of my profile. but will try to fit it in here. The rear was really high and stiff so it didn't hurt to take those leafs out.
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#8
#9
I did not want to C-notch either so I went ahead and did the work and came out with about 2 1/2" of clearance. The rear springs are pretty stiff. I weigh 250lbs so I got on the rear frame rails and bounced pretty hard and still did not come close to bottoming out. Without the shocks installed either.
#11
Also, when you moved the springs under on the front end, did it interfere with the steering linkage right behind the front axle? Looks like it'd be close, maybe not...
#14
Confused, if you have to re-weld a perch on the bottom, how does it give you extra drop? When you say 2nd and 4th are you talking about from the bottom up? This truck has 11 leaves in the rear, it's insane! I weigh 260 and I can't hardly budge them, much stiffer than my DD 2001 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins.
Also, when you moved the springs under on the front end, did it interfere with the steering linkage right behind the front axle? Looks like it'd be close, maybe not...
That looks awesome, perfect stance.
Also, when you moved the springs under on the front end, did it interfere with the steering linkage right behind the front axle? Looks like it'd be close, maybe not...
That looks awesome, perfect stance.
When you put the rear spring under the axle you will automatically get the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the perch that is welded into place. That alone could be about 4 1/2" anyway. I then removed the leafs from the spring pack which had I believe 10 really arched leafs to aquire the 9" drop that I got. Just like you, I weigh 250 and jumped up and down on the rear of the frame and it still doesn't budge. By the way I didn't even have to C-notch the frame. I waited to see if I was going to have to and I didn't. Got lucky I guess and got the stance I wanted.
#15
I used a 3" dropped axle and removed a couple of leafs from the front. On the rear I took out the 2nd and 4th leafs from the top.(main leaf being #1)
When you put the rear spring under the axle you will automatically get the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the perch that is welded into place. That alone could be about 4 1/2" anyway. I then removed the leafs from the spring pack which had I believe 10 really arched leafs to aquire the 9" drop that I got. Just like you, I weigh 250 and jumped up and down on the rear of the frame and it still doesn't budge. By the way I didn't even have to C-notch the frame. I waited to see if I was going to have to and I didn't. Got lucky I guess and got the stance I wanted.
When you put the rear spring under the axle you will automatically get the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the perch that is welded into place. That alone could be about 4 1/2" anyway. I then removed the leafs from the spring pack which had I believe 10 really arched leafs to aquire the 9" drop that I got. Just like you, I weigh 250 and jumped up and down on the rear of the frame and it still doesn't budge. By the way I didn't even have to C-notch the frame. I waited to see if I was going to have to and I didn't. Got lucky I guess and got the stance I wanted.
Did you do anything to the front?
Thanks for putting up with all my dumb questions...