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'51 F-1 Spring Under Conversion???

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Old 05-21-2010, 09:36 AM
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'51 F-1 Spring Under Conversion???

I searched several pages of threads using the search bar, but I didn't find anything about this (maybe that means it's a dumb idea?). I'm coming from a four-wheeling background when it comes to trucks, so i'm used to lifting them and throwing big tires under there, but i'm ready to make a street truck.

So instead of the usual off-road Spring over conversion, I see the springs are on top of these trucks, what about a spring under conversion? It looks like it would get me a few good inches lower and it should keep the same stance I have now between the front and rear.

Has anyone tried this on here? Any drive angle problems? Would you have to have the driveshaft shortened a little?

TIA - You guys know your stuff and are the best!
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:48 AM
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I did exactly that to my 51 F1. I can't remember if I have before and after pics in my gallery but I removed the rear springs, cut the spring perches off and welded new perches on the bottom of the axle. I also took a couple of leafs out of each spring and ended up with a 9 inch drop. I believe when you weld in the new perches you want to have a 4* angle for the drive shaft. Hopefully others will come along and help out with this question. Good luck.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by twise
I did exactly that to my 51 F1. I can't remember if I have before and after pics in my gallery but I removed the rear springs, cut the spring perches off and welded new perches on the bottom of the axle. I also took a couple of leafs out of each spring and ended up with a 9 inch drop. I believe when you weld in the new perches you want to have a 4* angle for the drive shaft. Hopefully others will come along and help out with this question. Good luck.
Wow, 9" seems like a lot, but maybe that's just in my head. How was the ground clearance? Also, which leaves did you take out? The rear seems plenty stiff for a 1/2 ton, I wouldn't mind losing some of them...
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:13 AM
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There are posts about this, I will see if I can find it at work this afternoon. The drop is considerable, I have not finished doing mine using mustang springs and a 9 inch but it must be close to that, its loooooooooooooow. (like a snakes belly in a wagon track).

The pinion angle should not exceed 3 degrees, I think.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:44 AM
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Spring under

My 50 has springs under axle; pics in my gallery ;under rear suspension.

Can't remember drop but I'd like more lift in my MII front end; to get closer to stock heights
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:47 AM
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TCI has a super nice kit. It is all bolt in. Very complete. All brackets and hardware. Get the kit and it will be super super easy!!!!
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lvin4jc33
Wow, 9" seems like a lot, but maybe that's just in my head. How was the ground clearance? Also, which leaves did you take out? The rear seems plenty stiff for a 1/2 ton, I wouldn't mind losing some of them...
Ground clearance was not a problem, the fenders fit nicely over the rear tires. I took out the second and fourth leafs. When flipping the springs under you automatically get the drop of the spring perch and axle width.
I have an after picture in the garage section of my profile. but will try to fit it in here. The rear was really high and stiff so it didn't hurt to take those leafs out.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:59 AM
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I have not done that since I did not want to C the frame rails and make changes to the floor of the bed. Without doing these I believe that you will run into suspension travel problems. You should try to maintain the better part of a 3 inch suspension travel for loads and bumps.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:16 PM
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I did not want to C-notch either so I went ahead and did the work and came out with about 2 1/2" of clearance. The rear springs are pretty stiff. I weigh 250lbs so I got on the rear frame rails and bounced pretty hard and still did not come close to bottoming out. Without the shocks installed either.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 02:15 PM
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by twise
Ground clearance was not a problem, the fenders fit nicely over the rear tires. I took out the second and fourth leafs. When flipping the springs under you automatically get the drop of the spring perch and axle width.
Confused, if you have to re-weld a perch on the bottom, how does it give you extra drop? When you say 2nd and 4th are you talking about from the bottom up? This truck has 11 leaves in the rear, it's insane! I weigh 260 and I can't hardly budge them, much stiffer than my DD 2001 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins.

Also, when you moved the springs under on the front end, did it interfere with the steering linkage right behind the front axle? Looks like it'd be close, maybe not...

Originally Posted by Old F1
That looks awesome, perfect stance.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:07 PM
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i could be wrong,but i dont think you can do that on the front.
isnt the front perch part of the front axle?if so how would you switch it?
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:55 PM
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You can do it actually, I had considered it but decided not to. I found the info on the H.A.M.B.
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lvin4jc33
Confused, if you have to re-weld a perch on the bottom, how does it give you extra drop? When you say 2nd and 4th are you talking about from the bottom up? This truck has 11 leaves in the rear, it's insane! I weigh 260 and I can't hardly budge them, much stiffer than my DD 2001 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins.

Also, when you moved the springs under on the front end, did it interfere with the steering linkage right behind the front axle? Looks like it'd be close, maybe not...



That looks awesome, perfect stance.
I used a 3" dropped axle and removed a couple of leafs from the front. On the rear I took out the 2nd and 4th leafs from the top.(main leaf being #1)
When you put the rear spring under the axle you will automatically get the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the perch that is welded into place. That alone could be about 4 1/2" anyway. I then removed the leafs from the spring pack which had I believe 10 really arched leafs to aquire the 9" drop that I got. Just like you, I weigh 250 and jumped up and down on the rear of the frame and it still doesn't budge. By the way I didn't even have to C-notch the frame. I waited to see if I was going to have to and I didn't. Got lucky I guess and got the stance I wanted.
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by twise
I used a 3" dropped axle and removed a couple of leafs from the front. On the rear I took out the 2nd and 4th leafs from the top.(main leaf being #1)
When you put the rear spring under the axle you will automatically get the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the perch that is welded into place. That alone could be about 4 1/2" anyway. I then removed the leafs from the spring pack which had I believe 10 really arched leafs to aquire the 9" drop that I got. Just like you, I weigh 250 and jumped up and down on the rear of the frame and it still doesn't budge. By the way I didn't even have to C-notch the frame. I waited to see if I was going to have to and I didn't. Got lucky I guess and got the stance I wanted.
Ok, so you didn't put a new perch on the bottom? Or it was thinner than the stock one?

Did you do anything to the front?

Thanks for putting up with all my dumb questions...
 


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