2004 F250, FX4.
Looking for affordable, approx. $400.00 or less, LOUD train sound horns .
I was set to go Seige but can't open their site any more. Looking at the Maximus III on Train Horn kits. com BUT wonder if it is the best for the $$$.
I am a volunteer firefighter and sometime even 2 electronic sirens don't penetrate other vehicles. I want something that will get thru (hopefully without breaking the windows, but if necessary so be it). A siren simply says "theres an emergency vehicle behind me and wants me to move", wheras a large loud horn says "there is something big and ugly behind me and will run over me if I don't move"!
I don't intend to use them for "scare toys", but as a tool for traffic avoidance.
I am wide open to suggestions, cussin's, discussin's.
I do, but it just doesn't seem to have the same effect.
i agree. when running code 3 in the engine, most cars still dont hear us until i hit the Q or blast their eardrums out with the air horns. i have 2 100w speakers on my pov and still have a hard time moving people. id love to have a set of train horns added to each engine and tanker we have that blew with the emergency horns.
__________________ FOUR WHEELING - certainly the most fun you will have with your clothes on!!!
We have Grovers and Q's on our primary engines, they will generally move traffic.
I run 2 SVP 400's (100/200w)w/air horn, 1 with 2 spkrs, 1 with 1 spkr. Run both on "Phaser" and sometimes you you'll get the attention of the oblivious. Generally I find people will yield if they know you're behind them BUT todays vehicles attentuate so much sound then add the radio/cd, cell phones, kids yelling and you damn near have to break the windows to be heard.
I beleive the more racaus, deeper sound of a LOUD train horn stands a better chance of cutting thru the vehicle sound proofing and the distractions. Once they realize you're back there they "hear" the siren and see the lights, they generally move over.
Thats why I am looking for "affordable" REALLY LOUD train horns.
Thanks for the comments and info., keep them coming.
Wide band or dual band jamming could be the ticket. knock out cell phones, fm radio reception. Now if you could just send out EMI to fuss up the pre-amp signal you'd be set. Lower freq are harder to dissipate, so more of the sound makes it through the car. But then you're competing with the subwoofers, a couple thousand watts in a confined space is hard to top even with train horns. You'll need a couple of notes (freqs) to get a range that will attract attention.
I think this is probably the problem you're having with the electronic horn. It's producing notes in the cheaper speaker range. So you're having to compete with car's audio and the insulation. You may want to look at very high frequency ear splitters or ultra low shaker type noises, or both for the double wammy.
for good train horns, nothing beats nathans. but they are expensive, in the 6-9 hundred dollar range.
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Nathan Airchime K5LA can be found around $600, just mounted mine and they are extremely loud!
Keep searching ebay or craigslist, I found mine for $630 on ebay, maybe you can let them know it's for an emergency vehicle and get a discount? Curt makes seperate mounts so you don't have to use the manifold, it's huge! I bought the seperate mounting kit but ended up not using it.
If Nathans are too much $, you can get the shockers from http://www.hornblasters.com/products...-and-air-horns for the $ you're looking at spending, not as loud or deep as K5LA's but they will move people. The key here is to find a set that runs off minimum 1/2" valve, stay away from the smaller, you'll end up wanting the bigger ones.
No, videos are not of my truck. I do not have shockers but do have the real train horns. As for cost, well it's been a few years of saving and just buying piece by piece, go with a shockers kit if all you want is to be heard. Here's a copy of a post with pics of what I have.....
Xmember for comp mount......
5 gal. tank / filter/reg........
Quick connect on front for filling up or air tools, etc......also have one at the rear bumper.............
3rd battery, deep cell utility.........
Battery isolator....only connects when voltage is above 12.?volts so the oem system doesn't get drained........
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