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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 05-18-2010, 01:24 PM
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95 F-150 cut off on me on the highway

I was driving my truck on a ~20 minute trip when 10 minutes or so into the trip it cut off on me. The truck had been running fine, then all the sudden it was like I'd turned off the key, it cut off. Except the electrical stuff still worked fine. I shifted into neutral and managed to drift onta a side road, the truck would crank strongly but not start. After about 10 minutes I was about to give up, and then it started fine. I took it home and it ran fine all that way.

So I'm thinking something electrical. A little background. This truck has been strange on starting for a while. It will often crank but not start. I've found that when I turn the key I hear a "whir" which I assume is the fuel pump. If I keep turning the key off then on sometimes I will hear the whir, then a pause, then another whir. If I hear the second whir, then the truck starts fine. Does this ring any bells for anyone?
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:37 PM
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You may have a hi pressure pump mounted on the frame. That could be what you're hearing with the second "whir." I don't know specifics of the system, but I think the hi pressure pump remains inert until the truck is running and accelerating, then kicks in to compensate for the extra needed pressure for acceleration. Cycling the key on and off may be causing it to kick in.

As for what you may want to check, try the coil. If you have a multimeter you can test it. Here's the procedure outlined in my chilton manual-

1. Primary resistance is measured between the two primary [low voltage] coil terminals, with the coil connector disconnected and the ignition switch off. Primary resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms.

2. On dura spark ignitions, the secondary resistance is measured between the BATT and high voltage [secondary] terminals of the ignition coil with the ignition off, and the wiring from the coil disconnected. Secondary resistance must be 8000-11500 ohms.

3. If resistance tests are okay, but the coil is still suspected, test the coil on a coil tester by following the test equipment manufacturers instructions for a standard coil. If the reading differs from the original test, check for a defective wiring harness.

It goes on to describe other tests to be performed, but give the resistance a check and we can go from there. I suggest the coil because they can cause very funny issues when they start to go bad- random dying being a primary symptom.
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:31 AM
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Interesting you should mention the coil, a couple years ago I wasn't getting good throttle response so I replaced the factory coil with an Accel. I think I'll try putting the Ford coil back on!
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:01 PM
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Probably not a bad idea to switch coils. Different vehicle, but I've heard many complaints about Accel coils that were manufactured for 6-cyl Fords.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBGrif91 View Post
You may have a hi pressure pump mounted on the frame. That could be what you're hearing with the second "whir." I don't know specifics of the system, but I think the hi pressure pump remains inert until the truck is running and accelerating, then kicks in to compensate for the extra needed pressure for acceleration. Cycling the key on and off may be causing it to kick in.
In a 95, each tank has an FDM. His truck won't have a third frame mounted pump.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:47 PM
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In a 95, each tank has an FDM. His truck won't have a third frame mounted pump.
What is an FDM?

I only have one tank, it's a shortbed.
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Old 05-20-2010, 01:06 PM
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Fuel Distribution Module

It's the fuel pump/fuel level sender in tank. But yhea, no 2nd or 3rd pump on the frame on a 95.
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Old 06-01-2010, 01:25 PM
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Changed the coil, no help. That little "whir" sound that I hear before the truck will start, I usually get it to happen by turning the key from Off to Acc and waiting a few seconds. But I also found out it can happen just by leaving the truck on Acc, but it can take 30 seconds or a minute to happen! Any idea what that noise is?

I've had someone turn the key while I listened in the engine compartment, first I hear the fuel pump, then a click in the fusebox area, then a click or pop type noise from my air filter; I guess it's coming from the engine and travelling up the intake hose?
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dan1101 View Post
I've had someone turn the key while I listened in the engine compartment, first I hear the fuel pump, then a click in the fusebox area, then a click or pop type noise from my air filter; I guess it's coming from the engine and travelling up the intake hose?
Ok, i'll take a random stab at it. The click in the fusebox is the fuel pump relay opening back up after it primes and the click in the air box is the IAC opening up to help start the truck.

I've had the same situation happen to me a while back, truck dying and starting up later and it runs great the whole time. One of the thing that you might want to look at is the ICM. I know that they are prone to heat related failure. It's located next to your fuse box on the inside of the fender well by the brake booster. It ended up being my PIP sensor inside the distributor when it happened to me. They are pretty prone to heat related failure also. It is a bit of a PITA to get one that works right though (unless you get one from the dealer and replace it yourself). If your interested, you can read the thread that I had from a while back here http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/87...sometimes.html . It's a bit long but has a lot of good info. I hope that you get it all sorted out.

Also, the plug that connects to the coil is prone to failure. Make sure the wires aren't brittle and be sure that they are making a good connection to the coil.
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjoebob99 View Post
Ok, i'll take a random stab at it. The click in the fusebox is the fuel pump relay opening back up after it primes and the click in the air box is the IAC opening up to help start the truck.

I've had the same situation happen to me a while back, truck dying and starting up later and it runs great the whole time. One of the thing that you might want to look at is the ICM. I know that they are prone to heat related failure. It's located next to your fuse box on the inside of the fender well by the brake booster. It ended up being my PIP sensor inside the distributor when it happened to me. They are pretty prone to heat related failure also. It is a bit of a PITA to get one that works right though (unless you get one from the dealer and replace it yourself). If your interested, you can read the thread that I had from a while back here http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/87...sometimes.html . It's a bit long but has a lot of good info. I hope that you get it all sorted out.

Also, the plug that connects to the coil is prone to failure. Make sure the wires aren't brittle and be sure that they are making a good connection to the coil.

im with this guy. i had the same problem with my 95 351. some days it would crank and run fine all day long. then driving down the road, it would cut off and not crank. after a couple of tow bills and a few fuel related new parts that didnt work, i had someone give me a dizzy to try and she actually ran better then before.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:37 PM
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was the PIP sensor also on my 95. I just dropped in a new distributor,problem solved. You might try to run codes,when my truck did this,there was a PIP code in the computer after awhile.
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Old 06-02-2010, 12:24 PM
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Thanks guys, that sounds like a likely thing to try. And expensive but not terrible.
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:22 PM
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I decided to try the cheaper option and got a NAPA ignition control module. Other than it not coming with thermal grease I did try it out and the truck started 4 times in a row with no problems. I didn't let it run for long without the heatsink attached.

I went back to NAPA today to get the thermal grease but what was included was dielectric grease. I think I'll put computer heatsink compound on it since I know it works well on computer CPUs.
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:31 PM
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I decided to try the cheaper option and got a NAPA ignition control module.
Did you make sure that they gave you the same color one that came out? If you have a black one you have to make sure that they gave you another black one back to put in. If it was gray, you have to put a gray one. It does something with the computer and if you put the wrong one in, it throws a code. Just a heads up.
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:20 PM
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Did you make sure that they gave you the same color one that came out? If you have a black one you have to make sure that they gave you another black one back to put in. If it was gray, you have to put a gray one. It does something with the computer and if you put the wrong one in, it throws a code. Just a heads up.
Yep, luckily I did my homework. They first gave me a grey one and I took it back for a black one. I told them if they couldn't find the black one to look up the ICM for a 95 Mustang 5.0, that's what the part guy did. You'd think in a small rural town with lots of pickups they would have already known that.

Apparently one of the pins on the grey one goes to 12V, on the black one it goes to the ECM. Or vice versa.
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