Hey there, I just signed up for my dad who is trying to replace a cracked head in his 89 ranger. I'm his daughter trying to help out after my dad suffered a stroke bout 2 years ago. I know a bit about car work having been raised the tom boy of the family but, we need to know what makes models years we can pull from at a yard? Im glad I found this sight to interact on because I know there will be more questions to come. It's an 89 V6 manual, nothing fancy or custom on it. Can anyone give me all the years, makes, models, of Fords that the head would be interchangeable to his? Thanks a lot, Chandra his kid.

 

Welcome to FTE. This is a great source of all kinds of good help. Your Ranger probably has a 2.9 L. engine. You can verify that either from 2.9 on the rocker arm covers or from the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). The VIN should be a letter code(T), seventh position from the left. Let us know if that is correct. If so, Ford used the 2.9 L. from 1986 to 1992.

Good luck on your search.

 

yep it sounds like a 2.9 actually im almost certain its a 2.9 as 3.0's are 91's watch out though them 2.9's though an ok motor have a problem with cracked blown heads might be easier to just get yours rebuilt

 

Yep the 2.9 is notorious for cracking heads. Finding a good used one is a pretty big gamble. What ever you get it would be wise to have it magnafluxed. I would hate for you to go to that much work to have to do it again because the head you put on was as bad as the one you took off.

 

If you go to a yard, for those heads, and a few others, [1.9, 2.3ohv], getting a used one is buying a pig in a poke. It would be worth your while to take the existing head to a machine shop for repair, or buy a re-manufactured head that has already been repaired and has had the valves replaced, seats ground or replaced, etc. As much time as you'd spend doing one replacement only to have to do it over again, it is worth it to get one that has been done already. Cost should be under $200, I *think*. You might as well get both done at the same time if you are going to put money into this truck. If you do, keep the valve train parts in order so they can go back to where they came from, especially valve lifters.
tom

 

The upper intake has "2.9" cast into it. Also, new, better made heads are available. Check with a local automotive machine shop to see if they can order them, if you want to go that route. Might also be a good time to get a "Chilton" or "Haines" repair manual that covers the Ranger you have.

 

it is very do-able. but you need to educate yourself. get a book about that engine, learn as much as you can about how that engine works. and know all of the parts that are inside of it, and how its designed. it would be like taking a computer apart, and attempting to work on it, when you have no idea whats inside of it, or how it works, where the motherboard is, and what the hard drive looks like. for instance.

spend money on tools. they will pay for themselves by saving you tons of money getting ripped off by a shop, and if you buy good tools, youll have them for life, and be able to work faster, safer, and easier.
write down everything you do, and the order you do it in. take note if you find a bolt longer than another, which directions something goes, which was it was facing when you took it off, all that stuff. proffessionals do all this stuff but they do it in their head. and half the time even they dont remember and have to use reference books! so write it down! also use plastic bags, paper brown lunch bags, and containers for all parts with labels on them. follow all torque specifications, and torque sequences. do not lube any bolts that have torque values associated with them or you will break bolts and strip threads.

finding what makes and models are something a book will also tell you. there are also so many diy sites, theres youtube, and parts resources. find out exactly what type of motor you have. what cylinder head(s) are on it, and go from there. f.i. i have a 3 liter v6 vulcan engine which is a cam in block design very similar to my 360 v8 in my f100.

 

Danger_Dave: do not lube any bolts that have torque values associated with them or you will break bolts and strip threads.


Gotta vote no on that one as an 'absolutely never'. It depends. Most bolts used to assemble an engine, its accessories, mounts and almost everything have a torque value assigned. Some body bolts also have a tightening specification.
Some bolts, i.e. head bolts, are specified to be 'clean and lightly lubricated with engine oil' for example. Some water pump or front cover bolts are to have pipe sealant on the threads because the drilled and tapped hole they screw into may intrude into the water jacket. Some spark plug threads are spozta be lubed with anti-seize, some are to be installed dry. Some sensors have a torque value and are to be installed with teflon tape or thread sealant.
It really does depend...
tom

 

Among other sources, if you are thinking of buying new heads, LMC Truck has 2.9 heads for $289.95 plus shipping. The headbolt kit is extra.

 

Yes by all means, lube them threads! There can be almost a 20% low reading if you don't torque them wet. Wait till you guys have to work on one of the new motors with the torque to yeild bolts.
Dave

 

Heck I take it one step further I chase all the head bolt holes and exhaust & intake manifold holes. Come to think about it I tend to do that on almost all the bolt holes on an engine when I am rebuilding one. It assures a more accurate torque reading and unless the maker says no I oil or anti-seize or locktite the bolts as needed.

 

Very good info! A lot of people use a tap instead of a tool meant to clean out the threads, chase the threads. Most anti-seize is good to over 2000 deg F, use it on anything.
Dave - 40 years as a mech designer, name a field