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  #676  
Old 01-26-2012, 07:58 AM
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Kirbys73F100 Kirbys73F100 is offline
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No, I've got one built but haven't found time to put it on yet.
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Travis, 1965 F100 Custom, 2wd 429 C6, 2500 stall, spool, 4.11 gear
1973 F100 Ranger 2wd, built 351w C6, Cragars, 3.73 gear, Detroit Locker, QTP electric cut-outs
1979 F250 Custom, 4x4 460 C6 NP205, 2.5 tons, 53's
1979 F150 SuperCab Custom, 4x4 460 T18 NP205
2000 Ranger XLT, 2.5l 2wd, 5 spd
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  #677  
Old 01-26-2012, 08:36 PM
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ask and you shall receive

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Travis, 1965 F100 Custom, 2wd 429 C6, 2500 stall, spool, 4.11 gear
1973 F100 Ranger 2wd, built 351w C6, Cragars, 3.73 gear, Detroit Locker, QTP electric cut-outs
1979 F250 Custom, 4x4 460 C6 NP205, 2.5 tons, 53's
1979 F150 SuperCab Custom, 4x4 460 T18 NP205
2000 Ranger XLT, 2.5l 2wd, 5 spd
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  #678  
Old 01-26-2012, 08:45 PM
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Kirbys73F100 Kirbys73F100 is offline
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Anti-wrap bar works great and built it all for the low cost of free! Now just to get those overloads and crappy shocks outta there...

Figured I'd share a picture of the dual battery setup I put in the cab tool box. I wired the truck front to rear with 4-0 aluminum wire to accomodate the winch. Just have to find some large plugs for quick disconnects.

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Travis, 1965 F100 Custom, 2wd 429 C6, 2500 stall, spool, 4.11 gear
1973 F100 Ranger 2wd, built 351w C6, Cragars, 3.73 gear, Detroit Locker, QTP electric cut-outs
1979 F250 Custom, 4x4 460 C6 NP205, 2.5 tons, 53's
1979 F150 SuperCab Custom, 4x4 460 T18 NP205
2000 Ranger XLT, 2.5l 2wd, 5 spd
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  #679  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:00 PM
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Looks like you pulled a late nite thrash showto get er on Bra! Lol

Got couple issues! Traction bar will work fine the way you got it but I think it's gonna limit your flex. The swing shackle is good but at the top end of bar instead of a bushing you really should have a threaded link so it can slightly twist in a tighten/ loosen motion to allow axle to twist.

Here what I did..

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Other issue I got is that battery setup. Connecting them together like that WILL make them drain each other. From research I've done I found that unless batteries are same brand, age and size they feed off each other and drain each other. I would either run two same batteries or run a dual battery switch either like a marine style dial switch, isolator, or I run a painless 250 amp remote solenoid to disconnect from a toggle switch on dash.
Painless Performance: 250 Amp Dual Battery Current Control System
It's ok to have them together while running but after engine is off they need to be separate. That's why battery isolators have that name. They isolate the batteries. I like the switch so if my main is dead I flick to the aux. Trick is for the painless one is the power source to flick switch to go to aux needs to be wired to aux cuz if the main is dead , switch won't direct power from aux. I did this mistake first go around and had to run jumper cables to connect batteries together then flick switch.
Just trying to help if you didn't know this info..
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'73 F250/44's,428 Cobra jet,Dana 60/70, ARB front and CTM joints/Detroit rear,5:13's , rear discs,winches F/R.

'96 f350/ 39.5 Iroks,5.8L ,5speed. Pavement pounder!
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  #680  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:10 PM
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Thanks for the heads up. At this point the rear suspension is far too stiff to flex so I can't test the bar for that yet. My plan was to run it like this for a while and swap to a heim if I get binding. I had all this stuff around the farm already so that's what it got. I have another red top I'm gonna swap in for the dual batteries. Hopefully they will live.
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Travis, 1965 F100 Custom, 2wd 429 C6, 2500 stall, spool, 4.11 gear
1973 F100 Ranger 2wd, built 351w C6, Cragars, 3.73 gear, Detroit Locker, QTP electric cut-outs
1979 F250 Custom, 4x4 460 C6 NP205, 2.5 tons, 53's
1979 F150 SuperCab Custom, 4x4 460 T18 NP205
2000 Ranger XLT, 2.5l 2wd, 5 spd
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  #681  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:17 PM
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[quote

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[/quote]


No battery isolator?
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  #682  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:20 PM
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I've never had luck with the bolt down style terminals. they always seem to corrode. and eventually get sporratic.
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  #683  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:21 PM
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Another fix for wrap bar is a round slip tube. Small tube inside a bigger one. This will allow it to shorten/ lengthen for up and down suspension travel but also twist for flex. Trick is to find good snug fit tubes and put in a grease nipple. Threaded rod end is better!
Just to get your head spinning read this link on a bam bar

BamBar - Ultimate Anti-Wrap Solution - Jeepaholics Anonymous

For batteries even with two red tops I would still run a switch/ isolator

Marine is cheapest/ bulletproof no brainer solution
Marine Battery Switches - iboats
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'73 F250/44's,428 Cobra jet,Dana 60/70, ARB front and CTM joints/Detroit rear,5:13's , rear discs,winches F/R.

'96 f350/ 39.5 Iroks,5.8L ,5speed. Pavement pounder!
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  #684  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:26 PM
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Are you using the manual isolator?
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  #685  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:29 PM
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They're wired straight together. No issues so far.
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Travis, 1965 F100 Custom, 2wd 429 C6, 2500 stall, spool, 4.11 gear
1973 F100 Ranger 2wd, built 351w C6, Cragars, 3.73 gear, Detroit Locker, QTP electric cut-outs
1979 F250 Custom, 4x4 460 C6 NP205, 2.5 tons, 53's
1979 F150 SuperCab Custom, 4x4 460 T18 NP205
2000 Ranger XLT, 2.5l 2wd, 5 spd
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  #686  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekingofcows View Post
I've never had luck with the bolt down style terminals. they always seem to corrode. and eventually get sporratic.
Yeah I use marine style terminals with wing nuts. I solder on end lugs in a vise ,filling lug with solder and with mini torch boil then dunk cable. I use a solder with a high temperature melting point so if cables are getting hot from long winching/ starting uses the lug solder won't boil and fall off. Little details.
If you had a proper lug crimp that is best to avoid this problem
But that's a tool I don't own.

I made some custom battery boxes as well to lock em down as plastic lids are CRAP!
I have to be careful to not overtighten with 1/2 bolts to hold them down. Nuts are tacked under angle tabs

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'73 F250/44's,428 Cobra jet,Dana 60/70, ARB front and CTM joints/Detroit rear,5:13's , rear discs,winches F/R.

'96 f350/ 39.5 Iroks,5.8L ,5speed. Pavement pounder!
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  #687  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:33 PM
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Im building that ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ soon. That looks great. Are you running a manual isolator?
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  #688  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:36 PM
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I started soldering my connections a few years ago. I hate it when I get a 'new vechicle that someone has put the cheezy bolt down connectors on... I recently procured two industrial crimpers that I'm itching to try out. One looks bolt cutters, and the other looks like a drill.
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  #689  
Old 01-26-2012, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekingofcows View Post
I started my connections a few years ago. I hate it when I get a 'new vechicle that someone has put the cheezy bolt down connectors on... I recently procured two industrial crimpers that I'm itching to try out. One looks bolt cutters, and the other looks like a drill.
I'm doing a refit/steel fabrication overhaul on a tug boat right now and one if the electricians was wiring a battery bank and he had some big crimps with different dies that could be swapped to crimp lugs on any size cable. Pretty sweet but also probably worth 3-500$

I run that painless switch. The toggles are on my dash

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'73 F250/44's,428 Cobra jet,Dana 60/70, ARB front and CTM joints/Detroit rear,5:13's , rear discs,winches F/R.

'96 f350/ 39.5 Iroks,5.8L ,5speed. Pavement pounder!
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  #690  
Old 01-26-2012, 11:00 PM
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Here is one kinda like the one I have. It crimps with a few tons of pressure. Pipe nipples are no match for it!

The other is kinda like what your talking about the crimping dies rotate so you can crimp from like 4 ga to like 4/0. Amazing what you can get at pawn shops...
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Old 01-26-2012, 11:00 PM
 
 
 
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