Well I was praying I could add a VERY valuable part to this excellent writeup......and I can. First, great writeup, I'll send ya some rep.
Next, the actuator removal...............Ford engineers nailed this one, and most people don't know it. It's rediculously easy.
You don't need to remove a handle, or pry on anything......watch this.
Once you get the door panel off and you have access to the actuator, position yourself where the door latch is in front of your chest. Where you can reach in and grab the actuator with one hand, and in your other hand, you need a slender straight slot screwdriver......Here's the engineering marvel.... Before you get ready to grab the actuator, look at the door skin just below the latch on the door itself. You will see a small slit, and I believe it has some rubber around it. I'm at work and don't have a reference, but that's what I remember. Anyway, this slit is there so you can push the "TAB" that holds the actuator on that funky tab inside the door. Once this tab is pushed with the screw driver from the outside, the actuator just simply slides off it's holder on the inside of the door. It's that easy, no prying, no latch, or handle removal. And it slides back on just as easy. Once you know about that slit, and how to push that tab, the whole mount of the actuator will make sense. Trust me, have a look at it. And I really hope that helps all you guys.
OH MAN!!! Now I wanna go take 'em out and put 'em back in again! Besides, I need to see if my rivet repair is holding up (I tend to play with the horn while locking the truck... I get a good laugh outta my friends anyways). Reps to you!
I KNOW!!! When I first started reading the thread, I was like"Oh please tell me someone hasn't told them about the slit!" I wanted to add it. LOL But on the flip side, I think it would have saved a few guys some headache taking them out. But I went through the same headache. I sat and looked at a door for about an hour before I said to myself, "Damit, if I could just stick a screwdriver through here........OH DAM!!!" lol The first time you remove them like this, you are gonna be like..."That is rediculous EASY".
I didn't find it.
After I pulled the lock assembley I could see how the acuator was held in with it tab and linkage rod.
For the Ecursion rear gtae lock it took a little more time, patience but I got it.
If there is a slit for the rear gate then that would make that one a whole lot easier.
Okay, I'm sorry it took so long. Here are pictures of the slit you poke the screw driver through. And the last pic is the tab on the actuator that you are pushing back. Once you push the tab back you will be sliding the actuator twards the outside of the door.
DELETED cuz I figured it out- while applying pressure with the screwdriver to the slot (which is actually pressing against the actuator) slide the actuator towards the door's outside. I had to remove the outside door handle to see this work, and it takes a fair amount of pressure to get it moving.
Last edited by jeronlines; 11-13-2010 at 08:06 AM.
Reason: Figured it out
Can't seem to delete the post, so I have to edit it. Made a replacement resistor from tin foil and wedged it in there, got the motor back in the right orientation (unlocks when asked vice locking), tie warped the actuator in case I'm back in there again, and back in the door. Sweet "tab" secret should make the next three that much easier, thanks for the help!
Jeremy, PAA #105
220. 221. Whatever it takes.
'00 Ex LTD: 7.3, 4WD, 190k+, AFE Big Boost 6637 w/ RDP cover, RDP CAC boots, plenum reinforcing inserts, FRx, HPx, CCV with catch filter, Autometer 4 Pod with EGT, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Press; 4" Dynaflow after stock muffler
Last edited by jeronlines; 11-13-2010 at 10:25 AM.
Reason: did it done!
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