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  #61  
Old 09-15-2010, 04:26 AM
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Well I was praying I could add a VERY valuable part to this excellent writeup......and I can. First, great writeup, I'll send ya some rep.

Next, the actuator removal...............Ford engineers nailed this one, and most people don't know it. It's rediculously easy.

You don't need to remove a handle, or pry on anything......watch this.

Once you get the door panel off and you have access to the actuator, position yourself where the door latch is in front of your chest. Where you can reach in and grab the actuator with one hand, and in your other hand, you need a slender straight slot screwdriver......Here's the engineering marvel.... Before you get ready to grab the actuator, look at the door skin just below the latch on the door itself. You will see a small slit, and I believe it has some rubber around it. I'm at work and don't have a reference, but that's what I remember. Anyway, this slit is there so you can push the "TAB" that holds the actuator on that funky tab inside the door. Once this tab is pushed with the screw driver from the outside, the actuator just simply slides off it's holder on the inside of the door. It's that easy, no prying, no latch, or handle removal. And it slides back on just as easy. Once you know about that slit, and how to push that tab, the whole mount of the actuator will make sense. Trust me, have a look at it. And I really hope that helps all you guys.
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  #62  
Old 09-15-2010, 08:11 AM
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OH MAN!!! Now I wanna go take 'em out and put 'em back in again! Besides, I need to see if my rivet repair is holding up (I tend to play with the horn while locking the truck... I get a good laugh outta my friends anyways). Reps to you!
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  #63  
Old 09-15-2010, 09:14 AM
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I KNOW!!! When I first started reading the thread, I was like"Oh please tell me someone hasn't told them about the slit!" I wanted to add it. LOL But on the flip side, I think it would have saved a few guys some headache taking them out. But I went through the same headache. I sat and looked at a door for about an hour before I said to myself, "Damit, if I could just stick a screwdriver through here........OH DAM!!!" lol The first time you remove them like this, you are gonna be like..."That is rediculous EASY".
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  #64  
Old 09-28-2010, 01:34 AM
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Just as an update to my post. The slit is actually IN the door latch it'self. So if you look in the door latch on the bottom side, you'll see it. Poke it with the screw driver, and walla!
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  #65  
Old 09-28-2010, 05:36 AM
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Thanks for the info.

Excellent PICS.

I tried to repair based on an old post, no photo's, and couldn't figure out.

I will be back at it with your post and get it done.
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  #66  
Old 10-03-2010, 09:47 AM
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I did it. All five went out on mine.
Pulled locks complete
Cut metal to replace old resistor.
Lubed locks etc.


Cleaned inside of doors any layed in 2 coats of POR-15.
It took me 2 yrs to get to this project VERT HAPPY it's done.

COULDN'T OF DONE IT WITHOUT YOU GUYS.

THANKS
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  #67  
Old 10-03-2010, 09:50 AM
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So you found the little slit in the door latch? It's rediculous easy isn't it. LOL
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  #68  
Old 10-03-2010, 11:44 AM
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I didn't find it.
After I pulled the lock assembley I could see how the acuator was held in with it tab and linkage rod.
For the Ecursion rear gtae lock it took a little more time, patience but I got it.
If there is a slit for the rear gate then that would make that one a whole lot easier.
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  #69  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:17 AM
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is there a really nice detailed post about replacing the rear hatch lock actuator? Jealous of the nice pictures too...(i have 2004 V8 Excursion.)

Thanks!
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  #70  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:35 PM
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I was pretty nervous about trying this until i saw this thread.
I just fixed all 4 doors and it worked like a champ, thank you very much I really appreciate it.
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  #71  
Old 11-12-2010, 03:00 PM
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I'm trying to find the secret tab, but it isn't coming together for me. I removed the trim and liner to see this-

Click the image to open in full size.

From the edge, it looks like this-

Click the image to open in full size.

I can find the door handle removal hardware, just not the easy button to pop the actuator off for repair. Ideas?
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Last edited by jeronlines; 11-12-2010 at 03:02 PM. Reason: wrong picture
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  #72  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:21 PM
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Okay, I'm sorry it took so long. Here are pictures of the slit you poke the screw driver through. And the last pic is the tab on the actuator that you are pushing back. Once you push the tab back you will be sliding the actuator twards the outside of the door.
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  #73  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:26 PM
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Jeron, your right there, just look right inside the latch where it hits the striker post.
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  #74  
Old 11-13-2010, 08:06 AM
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DELETED cuz I figured it out- while applying pressure with the screwdriver to the slot (which is actually pressing against the actuator) slide the actuator towards the door's outside. I had to remove the outside door handle to see this work, and it takes a fair amount of pressure to get it moving.

Last edited by jeronlines; 11-13-2010 at 09:06 AM. Reason: Figured it out
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  #75  
Old 11-13-2010, 08:39 AM
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Can't seem to delete the post, so I have to edit it. Made a replacement resistor from tin foil and wedged it in there, got the motor back in the right orientation (unlocks when asked vice locking), tie warped the actuator in case I'm back in there again, and back in the door. Sweet "tab" secret should make the next three that much easier, thanks for the help!
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Last edited by jeronlines; 11-13-2010 at 11:25 AM. Reason: did it done!
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:39 AM
 
 
 
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