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  #46  
Old 08-20-2010, 08:48 AM
rustydailey rustydailey is offline
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I did mine yesterday. I also fixed a broken window switch. I was pretty happy because I didn't get burned with the soldering iron.
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  #47  
Old 08-22-2010, 09:07 PM
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Well I did not do so well, missed the picture with the screw driver and tab, read it just didn't see the picture. Should of had my glasses on when reading instructions. Broke part of the channell on the accuator 3 out of four times. Was enough left to put them in place and hold for now. Does the tab prevent accuator from going on easy, I had a hard time reinstalling. The resister was the easy part all went well with motor.
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  #48  
Old 08-23-2010, 09:04 PM
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No, it shouldn't... it just holds it in there. Hopefully, you actuator won't push itself out. Time will tell... if it stays in there, don't worry about it.
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #49  
Old 08-31-2010, 08:18 PM
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Did my drivers side today,broke the plastic piece that holds the actuator in the truck. I got it on,but i guess we'll see if she stays! Drivers side lock works good though! I did the tinfoil..
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  #50  
Old 09-04-2010, 01:27 PM
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Bump. Another satisfied customer. It took me about 2 hours to get everything back together and working (cutting a piece of metal, or grinding in my case, to the right size took the longest) but the door lock works great! Thrilled that I don't have to jump across the truck to open the door.
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  #51  
Old 09-14-2010, 06:19 PM
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Jon,

A big thanks for the pictures & writeup. My passenger door automatic locks suddenly stopped functioning. I thought about the superb fix you and another have discovered, but in the end after learning I could get the "new & improved" actuators from Ed for approximately $37.00 each, I decided to install the newer actuators.

I made minor procedural changes to the R & R: I popped out the wire harness tab attached to the actuator (not it's own plug) since I had more leverage. I also had to remove a small plastic corner piece on the bottom inside righthand of the door which allowed me to move a gray cloth/plastic inner door cover out of the way.

Your mention of taping the outside of the door around the handle SAVED my paint job.....this is a must do. Thanks again & reps sent. The lock works again!
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  #52  
Old 09-14-2010, 07:04 PM
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Worked like a charm!

Just did this procedure with all the locks(4) using a piece of 1/2" copper tubing( left over scrap from jobs) folded in half and hammered flat. Cut to same size has piece that was in there. I didn't drill anything out. Just pryed it open on all sides except where the rivets are still attached. Left it in hanging in door and got the piece out. Used a tie strap to close it back up. I'm so happy I can use my locks again.

Anyone have or know of why my ignition key won't work in door lock to open or lock at door? Just curios why that is?
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  #53  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majikdog View Post

Anyone have or know of why my ignition key won't work in door lock to open or lock at door? Just curios why that is?

I have this SAME problem,i have to turn the key several times now to get the door to unlock on drivers side,anyone know why?
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  #54  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:31 PM
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You wore it out after you wore the door locks out, maybe?

Actually, to the guy before, has it always been like that, or has it just be getting worse as time goes on? If it's always been like that, then I'd imagine that it might be different than the ignition key. If the cylinder was ever replaced, they may be keyed differently. I chose to key my cylinder so I wouldn't have that problem... who wants two keys anyways?
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #55  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:43 PM
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No,the door always unlocked on the first turn till i did this fix.
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  #56  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:47 PM
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Hmmm... must've knocked a rod loose, or didn't snap a clip all the way. Did you look in there to see?
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #57  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:54 PM
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I did,but i didnt see anything outta wack?
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  #58  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:57 PM
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Weird... all I can say is check your rods and them funky clips that hold the rods into the end of the levers they attach to.
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Early 1999 F-250 Lariat 4x4 w/7.3L PSD, AT, SC, LB, 315/75/16's on 16x10's, 4" Lift, 4" Exhaust, HPx, Regulated Fuel Return, Hutch/Harpoon, NVK4 PCM, John Wood Valve Body, 6637 w/Pete's Cover, CCV, EBPV Delete, DP-Tuner, IssPro's - 332,000 miles!

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  #59  
Old 09-14-2010, 10:02 PM
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Yeah,obviously something is amiss,process of elimination now..
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  #60  
Old 09-14-2010, 10:15 PM
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Great thread. Is it possible to find another solid metal resistor to replace the worn out one?

What about these: VISHAY DALE|WSL2512R1000FEA|RESISTOR, METAL STRIP, 0.1 OHM | Farnell United Kingdom
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:15 PM
 
 
 
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