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Well I did not do so well, missed the picture with the screw driver and tab, read it just didn't see the picture. Should of had my glasses on when reading instructions. Broke part of the channell on the accuator 3 out of four times. Was enough left to put them in place and hold for now. Does the tab prevent accuator from going on easy, I had a hard time reinstalling. The resister was the easy part all went well with motor.
Bump. Another satisfied customer. It took me about 2 hours to get everything back together and working (cutting a piece of metal, or grinding in my case, to the right size took the longest) but the door lock works great! Thrilled that I don't have to jump across the truck to open the door.
A big thanks for the pictures & writeup. My passenger door automatic locks suddenly stopped functioning. I thought about the superb fix you and another have discovered, but in the end after learning I could get the "new & improved" actuators from Ed for approximately $37.00 each, I decided to install the newer actuators.
I made minor procedural changes to the R & R: I popped out the wire harness tab attached to the actuator (not it's own plug) since I had more leverage. I also had to remove a small plastic corner piece on the bottom inside righthand of the door which allowed me to move a gray cloth/plastic inner door cover out of the way.
Your mention of taping the outside of the door around the handle SAVED my paint job.....this is a must do. Thanks again & reps sent. The lock works again!
2002 True Blue F350 Ext Cab 4x4 7.3 PSD SRW LB
Rhino Line; 4" BDS Lift; Bilstein Shocks; Centerline Rims; Racor Ext Fuel/Enviro Bypass Oil/Magnafine Trans Filters; 8 Autometer Cobalt Gauges; AIS; Toyo 315/75R16 ATs; Banks Monster Exhaust, Mag-Hytec Trans & Rear Diff Covers; BTS; ATS: AIH Delete; Spearco CAC; DP Tuning; DI SS Ups 30 Yr USAF Vet
Just did this procedure with all the locks(4) using a piece of 1/2" copper tubing( left over scrap from jobs) folded in half and hammered flat. Cut to same size has piece that was in there. I didn't drill anything out. Just pryed it open on all sides except where the rivets are still attached. Left it in hanging in door and got the piece out. Used a tie strap to close it back up. I'm so happy I can use my locks again.
Anyone have or know of why my ignition key won't work in door lock to open or lock at door? Just curios why that is?
You wore it out after you wore the door locks out, maybe?
Actually, to the guy before, has it always been like that, or has it just be getting worse as time goes on? If it's always been like that, then I'd imagine that it might be different than the ignition key. If the cylinder was ever replaced, they may be keyed differently. I chose to key my cylinder so I wouldn't have that problem... who wants two keys anyways?
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