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What is needed for 500 HP powerstroke?

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  #61  
Old 05-06-2010, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
un common for twin turbo on a 7.3...compounds is smaller feeding a larger..twin would be 2 of the same..
Yes I know, people just commonly refer to compound turbos as twins. Joe was talking about a big single is hard to DD at 600, so I figured he was talking about the turbo setup.
 
  #62  
Old 05-06-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jeff7825
Yes I know, people just commonly refer to compound turbos as twins. Joe was talking about a big single is hard to DD at 600, so I figured he was talking about the turbo setup.
you are right..I just read his post and I think he did mean compounds.. Joe is always so politically correct...without reading his post I just assumed he was talking about big oil..
 
  #63  
Old 05-06-2010, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JonathanN
This is kinda what I'm looking for as well... except not that much power. I'm pretty much set on stage-2's, a 38R, 17* HPOP, DP-Tuner, etc. That's should get me at about 400HP and 800ft/lbs of torque. I was talking to Clay at Riffraff and he said 400HP is kinda the line between underpowered and dancing with danger. I want ALOT more power than stock, but not so much that I'm GREAT:Y reducing engine life and taking a chance at blowing the motor as well. Just my $.02...
Hey, just out of curiosity how is your fuel economy with all your mods?
 
  #64  
Old 05-06-2010, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
PC= pro charger
Twins= big oil

Twins as in Compounds... just didnt feel like typing it out...
 
  #65  
Old 05-06-2010, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
Hey, just out of curiosity how is your fuel economy with all your mods?
HAHA!!! That's what I WANT to do... I'm still dreaming.

Originally Posted by CSIPSD
400??? LOL

I would say 500hp is the place to get worried.
Well, I want power, but I wanna maintain my reliability. Why do you think I love my 7.3L? I don't have money to just throw around. Seems to me that 400+ HP is plenty of power, but still in the safe zone... right?
 
  #66  
Old 05-06-2010, 09:40 PM
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Ooop, just posted and thought I was replying to another thread, LOL......

But to answer your question 400 is still pretty much in the green but you're starting to rid the yellow range. 400 should be pretty easy to get to without breaking the bank.

Cold air Intake, 4" exhaust (lowers exhaust temps too), 6.0 IC, stuff like that. Just make it more efficient and you'll get it there without dropping your MPG.
 
  #67  
Old 05-07-2010, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by HD Rider
Prolly should throw a girdle in there to.
Truer words were never spoken. Just browsed through 4 pages real quick and thought I would add my .02. I am working on my 4th 7.3 in the same truck, each progressively more built($$$$) then the last. My last 7.3 was putting down about 480 at the tires and around 900 torque. I used this truck as a daily work truck. I hauled gravel, raced it, towed the 15Klb TOy hauler across the country, and simply put my truck to work. TO make a long story short, after 1 year and about 30k miles, I split 3 cylinder walls and two main journals on the stock forged rod bottom end.

If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!

Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
 
  #68  
Old 05-07-2010, 01:18 AM
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Maybe even I should consider a girdle but I don't tow a lot, just a 7K boat and maybe a 15K trailor every now and then but none the less sounds like a girdle is just a good idea.
 
  #69  
Old 05-07-2010, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by FN74
Truer words were never spoken. Just browsed through 4 pages real quick and thought I would add my .02. I am working on my 4th 7.3 in the same truck, each progressively more built($$$$) then the last. My last 7.3 was putting down about 480 at the tires and around 900 torque. I used this truck as a daily work truck. I hauled gravel, raced it, towed the 15Klb TOy hauler across the country, and simply put my truck to work. TO make a long story short, after 1 year and about 30k miles, I split 3 cylinder walls and two main journals on the stock forged rod bottom end.

If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!

Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
Well, I'm gonna be working my truck... and HARD too! It's gonna have to hold up and that much power is taking a chance on destroying my motor, then forget it. I don't have that kinda money! At 400 or so HP, would I need a girdle? What is that anyways? What does it do?
 
  #70  
Old 05-07-2010, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JonathanN
Well, I'm gonna be working my truck... and HARD too! It's gonna have to hold up and that much power is taking a chance on destroying my motor, then forget it. I don't have that kinda money! At 400 or so HP, would I need a girdle? What is that anyways? What does it do?
answer is in post 11...no 400 you dont need one unless you got cash to though around...
 
  #71  
Old 05-07-2010, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
answer is in post 11...no 400 you dont need one unless you got cash to though around...
Ok... thanks. I thought it was in here somewhere. Yeah, I want it to be safe... and I've found that going higher than 400HP gets to be more expensive and more money than I care to spend. But like I said, it's gotta hold up... that's why I have the 7.3L. I would love than kinda power, don't get me wrong... it's just two much money for a College Student!

CSIPSD,

Where'd that turbo come from? What's it got the 38R doesn't? Is that why your truck always whistled so loud in your videos? Is it louder than the 38R?
 
  #72  
Old 05-07-2010, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by FN74
The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now.
No would you go with a large single turbo, which will lag a lot, or will you go with the procharger setup, or maybe compound.
Im going to be building a compound setup for my truck because I dont like to wait for boost, and the 38r seems to spool nicely. You basically get to keep everything you have now, only add way more air with the big turbo, or procharger.
 
  #73  
Old 05-07-2010, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
Hey, just out of curiosity how is your fuel economy with all your mods?
I've gotten 22+ on the highway with mine. Not sure about CSI-Joe...
 
  #74  
Old 05-07-2010, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
I've gotten 22+ on the highway with mine. Not sure about CSI-Joe...
I think your telling Stories. Lol.
I barely can manage 16mpg on hyway.
 
  #75  
Old 05-07-2010, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by FN74
Truer words were never spoken. Just browsed through 4 pages real quick and thought I would add my .02. I am working on my 4th 7.3 in the same truck, each progressively more built($$$$) then the last. My last 7.3 was putting down about 480 at the tires and around 900 torque. I used this truck as a daily work truck. I hauled gravel, raced it, towed the 15Klb TOy hauler across the country, and simply put my truck to work. TO make a long story short, after 1 year and about 30k miles, I split 3 cylinder walls and two main journals on the stock forged rod bottom end.

If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!

Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.

Tuning can control the need for a girdle.

Wish I could say more but my hands are tied.

You can have a 700hp work truck, if your dumb enough to drive around towing 20k in a 700 tune, well you get what you get. 350hp is all anyone needs in a truck to pull anything legal for our trucks.

How much HP do you think OTR trucks have???

Good lord some of you guys have a- way to much money or b- like koolaid way too much...
 


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