What is needed for 500 HP powerstroke?
#61
Yes I know, people just commonly refer to compound turbos as twins. Joe was talking about a big single is hard to DD at 600, so I figured he was talking about the turbo setup.
#63
This is kinda what I'm looking for as well... except not that much power. I'm pretty much set on stage-2's, a 38R, 17* HPOP, DP-Tuner, etc. That's should get me at about 400HP and 800ft/lbs of torque. I was talking to Clay at Riffraff and he said 400HP is kinda the line between underpowered and dancing with danger. I want ALOT more power than stock, but not so much that I'm GREAT:Y reducing engine life and taking a chance at blowing the motor as well. Just my $.02...
#65
Originally Posted by CSIPSD
400??? LOL
I would say 500hp is the place to get worried.
I would say 500hp is the place to get worried.
#66
Ooop, just posted and thought I was replying to another thread, LOL......
But to answer your question 400 is still pretty much in the green but you're starting to rid the yellow range. 400 should be pretty easy to get to without breaking the bank.
Cold air Intake, 4" exhaust (lowers exhaust temps too), 6.0 IC, stuff like that. Just make it more efficient and you'll get it there without dropping your MPG.
But to answer your question 400 is still pretty much in the green but you're starting to rid the yellow range. 400 should be pretty easy to get to without breaking the bank.
Cold air Intake, 4" exhaust (lowers exhaust temps too), 6.0 IC, stuff like that. Just make it more efficient and you'll get it there without dropping your MPG.
#67
Truer words were never spoken. Just browsed through 4 pages real quick and thought I would add my .02. I am working on my 4th 7.3 in the same truck, each progressively more built($$$$) then the last. My last 7.3 was putting down about 480 at the tires and around 900 torque. I used this truck as a daily work truck. I hauled gravel, raced it, towed the 15Klb TOy hauler across the country, and simply put my truck to work. TO make a long story short, after 1 year and about 30k miles, I split 3 cylinder walls and two main journals on the stock forged rod bottom end.
If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!
Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!
Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
#68
#69
Truer words were never spoken. Just browsed through 4 pages real quick and thought I would add my .02. I am working on my 4th 7.3 in the same truck, each progressively more built($$$$) then the last. My last 7.3 was putting down about 480 at the tires and around 900 torque. I used this truck as a daily work truck. I hauled gravel, raced it, towed the 15Klb TOy hauler across the country, and simply put my truck to work. TO make a long story short, after 1 year and about 30k miles, I split 3 cylinder walls and two main journals on the stock forged rod bottom end.
If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!
Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!
Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
#71
CSIPSD,
Where'd that turbo come from? What's it got the 38R doesn't? Is that why your truck always whistled so loud in your videos? Is it louder than the 38R?
#72
Im going to be building a compound setup for my truck because I dont like to wait for boost, and the 38r seems to spool nicely. You basically get to keep everything you have now, only add way more air with the big turbo, or procharger.
#73
#74
#75
Truer words were never spoken. Just browsed through 4 pages real quick and thought I would add my .02. I am working on my 4th 7.3 in the same truck, each progressively more built($$$$) then the last. My last 7.3 was putting down about 480 at the tires and around 900 torque. I used this truck as a daily work truck. I hauled gravel, raced it, towed the 15Klb TOy hauler across the country, and simply put my truck to work. TO make a long story short, after 1 year and about 30k miles, I split 3 cylinder walls and two main journals on the stock forged rod bottom end.
If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!
Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
If you will not use your truck for actual work, then 500 with the OEM forged bottom end is fine. If you actually use your truck as a truck, then you WILL NEED A MAIN GIRDLE!!
Or plan B. I have about $30k wrapped up into my current 7.3 longblock. And I am still not done. The 38R I currently sport is way too small, but can not afford more air for now. However if I had it to do again I would honestly figure out how to transplant a 6.4 into my truck. Those motors STOCK are capable of reliable 500+ on Diesel only and still be a good daily driver. And the transmission can hold the power without a rebuild.
Tuning can control the need for a girdle.
Wish I could say more but my hands are tied.
You can have a 700hp work truck, if your dumb enough to drive around towing 20k in a 700 tune, well you get what you get. 350hp is all anyone needs in a truck to pull anything legal for our trucks.
How much HP do you think OTR trucks have???
Good lord some of you guys have a- way to much money or b- like koolaid way too much...