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Winch Bumper: Roll Recovery

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  #61  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:44 PM
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you are gonna be so pissed when you do roll over and don't have a camera you damnwell better leave it on it's side until you get a camera cuz i want to see this rigged up rigging in action
 
  #62  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:46 PM
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Yeah sadly. I just want it nice for one summer as a cruiser to the lakes and ocean and stuff. come fall/winter its smash time
 
  #63  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:47 PM
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doing it your self or paying someone?
 
  #64  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:49 PM
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My camera is in my pocket 24/7. Its my i phone and this is how i post all my pics your looking at! If I reply to a thread during the day on a weekday I'm almost garanteed at work. Its just hard to post pics unless I'm on my laptop..
 
  #65  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
Yeah sadly. I just want it nice for one summer as a cruiser to the lakes and ocean and stuff. come fall/winter its smash time
Doing it myself. I'm getting some good quality paint and shooting it at my buddies indoor shop. The body is in such nice shape its literally a sand and paint. I wanna try to do it for $500 so I wont feel bad when I do wreck it.
 
  #66  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:54 PM
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I don't know much about real offroading, and even less about physics.

Here's my worthless 2 cents:

Thomas Edison probably ignored the same kind of people 73ford is ignoring.

I'd love to see this in a demonstration model. It's an interesting idea.

I'm a little bit worried by the outrigger bar structure. The anchor plates might actually tear. They don't look heavy enough. I also think that extension bar will twist and bend because of the pulley anchor point. The pulley point needs to be in direct line with the bar to prevent a catastrophic twist.

Have you considered running the winch line through the bar instead of outside it? I don't know how you'd get the hook through the center but that would at least prevent twisting.
 
  #67  
Old 05-17-2010, 09:57 PM
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Looking at your pictures again, to prevent the bolts pulling through the metal plates, have you considered longer bolts to sandwich the whole bar to the bumper?
 
  #68  
Old 05-17-2010, 10:03 PM
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The material is 2x3 1/4 wall HSS tube. As you can see the front one is setup on edge so the pulling force is on the 3" side. This gives it really strong strength. I had to mount it oppossite on the rear one though so I could fit it between the bolt holes and get enough weld on it. It still should be fine though. As you can see from earlier I tested it by lifting my 1200-1500lb ish welder to see what happens. There was no bend in the bar at all! It was able to pick it off the ground which is actually acting more like 3000-4000 lbs say with the extension leverage on it. So I know it is strong and can handle the weight. I figure it will take 2/3 of the wieght of truck to roll truck back on all 4's with the truck weighing 6000lbs and with now resistance from say stuck in mud suction or branches it will require 4000 lbs of pulling force to turn it over meaning each corner will have to be able to support at least 2000lbs which it has..Just crude math on me trying to figure it out
 
  #69  
Old 05-17-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dcf4x4
Looking at your pictures again, to prevent the bolts pulling through the metal plates, have you considered longer bolts to sandwich the whole bar to the bumper?
The bolts are on shear it has no pressure on plate on rear. front is trying to pull away but they are 3/8" plates!! I'm a welder,fabricator/iron worker I do this for a living. The bolts are 9/16 threads. I lift heay steel everyday at work I know its limits and capabilities pretty damn good..
 
  #70  
Old 05-17-2010, 10:13 PM
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OK, I was just checking.
 
  #71  
Old 05-17-2010, 10:19 PM
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If you were questioning this plate...

....the holes do have a tight edge distance and had to be tha way to work properly. As for do I think its weak? No. again its 3/8 plate and I bet it would take 100,000 lbs of force to pull that bolt though the plate. way more than I'd ever even be avle to accomplish. If the plate was 1/4 it may be closer to a concern. The bibbest concern here is the amount of weld to tube. If it was just to the side for only 2"s it would be iffy.. The front was welded on with it to the side but i got a 3" weld. This one needed the weld to go around tube for me to feel it was safe.
 
  #72  
Old 05-18-2010, 12:02 AM
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Those outriggers don't look long enough to me. But then again, longer they are the more leverage.

Damn, I can't wait to see this thing in action.
 
  #73  
Old 05-18-2010, 08:47 AM
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Well your normal mounting point for a roll over is usually the frame which is narrower than the body. These both stick out 28"s past the body equally not including the length that mounts to the bumper itself so it's quite a bit of more leverage than a standard pull..
 
  #74  
Old 05-18-2010, 09:39 AM
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Just make sure no one is in the blast range when those out riggers come flying off and turn into giant projectiles
 
  #75  
Old 05-18-2010, 12:11 PM
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Like I said before it's not the outriggers that would ever break my weak links would be cable snapping or the bumper itself. The bumpers are 3/16 not massively thick but sure keeps the weight down compared to 1/4. It's all about shape and where it is reinforced now to keep it strong. Even sheet metal can be strong if it has bends in it. I think I beefed it up pretty good on the inside and if it did fail it would only fold over and never snap.
 


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