1986 F350 460ci Dual Tanks

I am stuck. I think I have it narrowed down that my issues are the Fuel Selector Relay/Valve. I can get one tank to pump up to the Selector Valve, no gage readings from either, and nothing makes it to the carb. Last thing I will do is pull it out and test it with a meter.

However I want to find where I can get another one when/if I find out the original one is bad. Most web sites that say they carry the unit, list the AC Delco U7001 and/or AIRTEX 8F1312 as the replacement but it doesn't match up with what I have.

Most I have found online have 2 lines facing upward and 4 facing downward and mine has a pair facing both up and down and a pair coming out of the rear of the unit (front tank supply/return). With the shape of the lines and connectors I need an exact match to what I have now.

The pic is what I have found all of them to be so far. The red "X" doesn't exist on mine and the red lines on the pic above it are where my ports are actually located. Sorry for the crude drawing but I was being quick about it.



Any ideas where I could find one. I prefer somewhere I can pick it up at a store since I need this in the next few days.

 

I took some pics today. I know the truck is rusty at the moment but getting the engine running is priority for the time being.

 

Go to JCWhitney and type in 15712G. That's the valve most people use.

 

Looks identicle to the AC Delco U7001 and AIRTEX 8F1312. To use it, I will need to run new fuel lines from the front tank since there is no play/give in the current lines to cut and splice 90 degree fittings on. I'm guessing the fittings will be hard to find also.

However I am guessing from the pictures that the part with the hoses can be taken off and reused on the new pump. There is a visible joint between them that looks like it can be seperated with ease. Anyone confirm this?

 

The lines have the quick-connect fittings on them on both ends, what you see at the FSV is what you have on the pump side too, so yes you can reuse the hoses after replacing the pump.

Your gauge issues could be cause the brass floats in the tanks filled with fuel and sank to the bottom, you'll have to pull the senders out to replace them which with a pickup bed means dropping the tanks..

 

I know about the hoses, I was talking about the section of the valve setup they connect to.

 

Got it out and found part number: E67B-9F271-AA

 

There are FOUR possible selector valves. Two have 3 ports, two have 6 ports, all have ID engineering (not part) numbers marked on them.

ID number: E67B-9F271A-AA (or E57B-9F271-BA ) = Ford part number: E5TZ9189B .. Fuel Tank Selector Valve.

This is the most common 6 port valve...and it's notorious for failing, I kid you not. When I first read this thread, I figured it was this little charmer.

MSRP: $216.35 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $155.77.

Parts Guy Ed = Ed Olson, parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle (Tukwila) WA

 

I already posted it with a picture of the model number on the unit itself.

 

I noticed that after I typed and posted. I've edited the post, it now contains the part number, prices and a comment.

 

Thanks for the help that is what I was looking for. I wish it were available in more places as the price is above my projected $100 budget on this item. I have found a universal one like the JC Whitney one posted above at AutozZone for $60. The only thing hanging my up with it is 1) making sure it comes with a male plug and 2) a schematic of the wiring to make sure it will work with the OEM wiring I have on the truck. The one I removed had no plug and each wire connected with spade connectors which was susprising.

 

Bill, what's the other 6-port valve, what applications does it fit, and is it any better design than what he has now?

The aftermarket ones that I have seen usually come with a connector and a few inches of wring, you cut your old wires and splice them into the new ones. I bet your factory connector disintegrated from old age or something, and whoever had the truck before you just put the wires one at a time in the order they were in the connector.

 

E3TZ9189C .. Fuel Tank Selector Valve-6 ports / Marked: E3TB-9F271-AA

Fits: 1983/86 E/F250/350 Diesel / 1983/86 E/F250/350 460 w/electric in-tank fuel pump / 1983/89 Ranger w/134 cid Diesel.

Is it any better? I dunno, I didn't sell anywhere near the same quantity as the POS E5TZ9189B valve, but if I were to venture a guess....

 

Here's some info I picked on a forum somewhere, and copied it for my records in case my valve ever went bad. Sounds like you do not have to worry about your original fuel lines kinking, since you have to cut them and retro fit rubber hoses anyway.

Here also is a link to the universal valve for more info, and it has a pdf you can download with some pictures.
http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitem...lve?&forward=1

first.this valve uses 6 ports.the engine to valve is obvious.connect the main tank (in my case the front) to the L port of the valve.
connect the R for your aux tank (in my case the rear.)
(i had this right)

pin 1 is NOT used.not by ford nor this valve.
you will see the blank spot in your old harness.
(i had this right)

Yellow/Blue Stripe = A
Yellow/White Stripe = B
Blue/White Stripe = C
Red = D
Black/White Stripe = E
None = F
(i had this wrong.like stated here,worked perfect for my '93)

feels good to know i saved a boat load on a new FSV,and wiring it up is quite easy actually when you pay attention to the old wiring harness.this should help those like me,who just want to match up the colors and keep it simple.


i should also state to help future researchers,a simple tip,despite your colors of wires,
just cut off your stock connector,then look at it.notice the blank spot in the connector(where there is no wire to connect.)
well,right next to this side(the first wire next to it) is your "E".then follow your stock colors on your connector,over.so your next color beside "E" will be your "D" then c,b,a as you go across to the other side.
so when you cut your stock connector off,leave enough tails on your wires to be able to see each color so you can match it up.
this will make sense when your doing it.very simple really this way.

also note,when you try to bolt it back to the frame rail,the spacing is slightly off.you can start each bolt and it will catch and tighten.however,it will kink the top rear fuel lines.
she's stalling out on me when i select the rear tank,and the line pumps clean from the front tank.(that would REALLY suck for you guys who haven't done the electric pump conversion yet.as you would have to crank,and crank to prime the system again!!! so make sure you don't kink off the line.)
so i think i can just use one bolt.i'l use the top bolt in FSV and the bottom bolt hole in the frame.this should hold it plenty and provide more room so the lines don't kink.( but if your worried,and or want to really do it "right",you could drill another hole in the frame down lower,so you have both bolts again.i think the one with rust up and hold forever just fine,the fuel lines hold it all there too,so its not like it could fall off or anything.)

also note,this valve,just uses standard hose connections.not the stock fuel connections.
all you need to do,is cut the end off the ends going into the FSV,and strip back the outer hose.you can now slide your rubber hose right on the stock fuel connector lines going into the tanks!just secure with standard hose clamps.its all low pressure,so no worries.

 

Okay, that's interesting - I have a '90 F-series diesel and while my TSV has never failed me, but lots of other folks absolutely hate them. So I take it is the TSV for the '87-'94 diesels is the bad design, probably a cheapified version of the '83-'86 setup?