Thanks for alll the help thus far. It has calmed my nerves a bit. Another question though. I need to get this truck running while I wait for the generic valve replacement to get here. I checked the diagram out of the Haynes book and found one issue. It seems the factory valve uses diodes to control the power to the in-tank pumps. My original plan was to jumper the red and brown/white wires (for the rear pump) and the yellow/white to the yellow/lgt blue wires. After checking the diagram I am not sure this will work, thoughts?

 

I'm losing hope this thing will ever run again. This morning after posting the above message, I tore apart the old valve. I found the two diodes inside, one was bad and the other tested good with an ohm meter. So I went by the diagram specifically and soldered a jumper with the diode inline and installed it between the red and brown/white wires. I also jumpered the yellow/lt blue and yellow/white wires.

I jumpered the oil pressure switch and turn the key. The diode melts and nothing happens.

Now I am asking if there is any direct way to test the rear tank pump without tearing into the tank or using any special tools/gadgets. I really need to know that pump is good before I burn/melt anything else up.

 

Sure. Take a scrap piece of wire and hook it to the battery +(or get a small battery charger) and then hook the other end to the brown/white wire that goes to the rear tank pump. You should hear it run if it's working.

 

I put the brn/wht wire to the battery + and nothing. A friend suggested I check the fuel tank switch in the cab and when taking it out it fell apart (cheaply built) so now I have something else to replace.

Tomorrow I will drop the rear tank and make sure the wires are intact and then onto the pump from there.

 

Today I dropped the tank. There was algae in what was left of the gas and power to the pump didn’t do anything at the plug or directly so my guess it is bad (hopefully the red/black wires in the tank were the universal standards). Tomorrow I will clean out the tank with a gas/oil mix then replace the pump and hopefully get it working.

To get the engine purring like a 70 year old chain smoker, I will bypass the valve and run the lines directly and wire the cab switch to go with the rear tank only. I also plan on replacing the rear tank nylon lines (I hate them at this point) with rubber ones from the auto parts store with the same inside diameter. As with the start of this thread, my goal is to get the truck drivable albeit in a rigged state by this weekend.

I would rather go with an inline pump somewhere on the frame rail to make things simpler but OEM is the quickest way at the moment.

 

Okay, so I know this is 9 years later, but I now have the same issue on my 1986 F350 (see truck info below)

I also ordered the U70001 6 port TSV and it's not what i have on my truck. I have the E67B-9F271A-AA part. This part has a different electric plug (smaller than the U7001) and the ports are arranged differently. My question is this, can I use the U7001 on my truck? It was mentioned that the part i have is known for going bad and more importantly, I got the U7001 for $130 and I was told that the E67B-9F271A-AA part would be over $300. Any ideas on where to find a plug for the new part?

1986 F350, crew cab, V8 460, carb

 

Marked with ID number: E67B-9F271-AA = Ford part number: E5TZ-9189-B .. Fuel Tank Selector Valve ~ 6 ports / Available from Ford

MSRP: $319.85 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $221.11.

 

O.k. sorry to hijack this thread. I'm having similar issues on my 1986 F-250 XL, dual tanks, gas not diesel, and it has a mechanical fuel pump on the engine. Every selector valve I see is the AC delco U7001, and seeing as I just got it running off the rear tank by splicing it and bypassing the valve, I can't afford to be without my truck.

I'm lost as to what part to use, and my hopes of doing away with the selector valve are kinda quashed with a fella saying I can't just "T" them together.

 

How many line connections does your valve have(3 or 6)? How many wires does the valve have(1 or many)? What engine do you have?

 

I'm not sure to tell you the truth, It's too snowy to get under and look at the moment. I have the 460 engine 7.5L. I had no idea there were multiple options, It's carb'd and has mech fuel pump. Don't know if that helps. I'll check asap and get back to posting what I find

 

You can probably get by with a 3 port valve, I don't think the mechanical fuel pump models had the return lines. Just make sure that the valve and gauge are correct for the switch position.

 

But some do. They have a third port coming off the mechanical fuel pump for the return. You can look it up at Autozone's site and see what I am talking about. I can't explain why they had so many versions, and both versions ran side by side through the years, it's not like they got rid of one and started using the other.

 

I have the return or 3rd port off the mechanical fuel pump, this I know for sure.

I take it then it is a 6 port valve I am wanting/needing. I'll look to make sure but I certainly have the return off the fuel pump.

So in my estimation, there is a return to each fuel tank (2) and a draw (2) then a draw from valve to pump, (1) and a return from pump to valve (1) for a total of 6, is that about right?


or:


From From
Rear Front
------\-----\---------/to fuel pump----------/-----------------
| |--------------|
| |-------------|
|-------/----/--------\return from fuel pump-----------\------
To To
Rear Front
(Return) (Return)


/ or\ = port and -- = fuel line


Where as only 3 ports at any given time are active, 1 draw, 1 return, 1 to fuel pump with the valve being the intermediary.

 

You are correct, you have to return fuel to the same tank you are pulling it from. I don't know if your truck would need the infamous motor driven valve that also changed the sender selection. All of the 460s I have had to deal with had the hot fuel handling package.

 

Not familiar with either of those. Motor driven as in non electrical?