Still a messy headache old timer. Changed one a time or two. On tractors though.

Glad your happy. I have a parts dealer in town who refuses to sell the KN air filters for off road trucks as they wont pull the dirt out. He says too many people were scoring the bores and valves so he sells every one with a no money back screw you if you put it on a farm truck.

So yes, I do think they probobly filter better. I just hate the mess.

 

Let's see, I bought my '65 with 57K on the odom and now it has 328K on it. So that equates to 271,000 that I have put on it with an oil change every 3,000 miles. So that's 90 oil changes and I clean and replace the oil in the air cleaner every time, so far I have not made a mess. What are you doing that caused you so much trouble ? Steve

 

Lets see...you remove the oil bath air cleaner, separate the top that has the screen from the lower section, then rinse both out with kerosene, and then...when all is said and done, add a pint a oil.

This procedure should take no more than one half hour.

Autoparts stores sell a product called Protech (or sumtin' like that). Apply this stuff to your mitts before beginning, then when all is said and done, wipe the stuff off. Your mitts will be just as clean as when you started.

Since I owned the same rolling pile of miseries from March 1965 thru November 2009, I went thru this rigamarole countless times. Didn't bother me a bit.

 

Ive got the oil bath on mine...no issues here either...

Question for ya Bill...can the element portion be soaked overnight...for example in a cold tank or a hot tank...I recall on my 55 Buick I had that I had to either a cold tank or use some other kind of manual cold process as the breather cap I was cleaning had a brass or copper mesh filter in it which the heat would destroy.


Last time I had my oil changed in the beast I had the Oil bath serviced...as far as i know it hadnt been serviced in decades....


- cs65

 

I will consider trying this then. The old farmalls that had them have been a messy pig. You have to yank that oil "pan" to get it off and it almost always goes everywhere. That is always dirty oil. The stuff stains like none other. Then you have to clean it out with gasoline. Wipe it out and let it airdry for a bit. Add oil to the line. We always used used oil in it from the oil change. That is the way my dad and grandfather did it.

I will try this if someone can assure me that it will not run out at a 30 degree angle of attack. I will keep my eyes peeled for one as I go scraping.

 

I had a 5 gallon bucket of TIME, the carb cleaner everyone once used. I soaked that puppy every so often...the screen came out clean as a whistle.

flipklos: I know less about tractors than a mule knows about tap dancing!

 

Is TIME still available or ??? Did it evaporate semi fast like most modern carb cleaners ???

- cs65

 

Dunno, I haven't bought a can of the stuff since you were in diapers.

It didn't evaporate unless you left the top of the can off. This stuff burns the hades outta your skin, so you need to wear rubber gloves when using it...and eye protection!

It also works great as a paint stripper, and smells worse than a spavined skunk.

 

1)Tyme carb cleaner is still available. Bought a gallon can this february.
2)I dont think it is that bad of a smell nor does it burn (I am an industrial mechanic so I play with some realy nasty crap.) Though please wear your glasses and gloves as it is toxic to humans.
The stuff works great as a safe soak for nearly any metal. Strips grease, grime, varnish, and yes paint. Plus it softens rust for easy removal though it needs a few days soak to do so.

Battery acid will deoxide aluminium. Ronson lighter fluid will flatten touchup paint. Seafoam will disolve cosmoline. I have found nothing else that will do that!

 

I too is have a problem with my carburetor, I have a 1966 F350 352, the Caburetor number is C5TF-Y shows to be an Autolite 2100 1.14 manual choke (which I do not like) the caburetor is loading up when cellerating, i beleive the float is hanging up. However I did fine a rebuild kit for $23 bucks, but I decided to go with an automatic choke/Termo. I do have a question, what does the last letter stand for? Mine is -Y, I have seen -B, -D and a couple of others. ADAMSR52

 

I dont believe the last letter designation for your carb ID is terribly important. A carb produced earlier in the year than later would have a B as opposed to Y. There also may have been some minor engineering changes that occured throughout the year.

To use a thermatic choke a hot air source will be needed to feed the choke inlet. You can make a choke stove or buy one. Jegs has them listed on ebay, and they arent very expensive.

 

The one or two letter carb ID tag suffix identifies the type of carb, what its applications are.

The carb ID tag prefix of C5TF was used with many 1965 (1966/69) all series' of truck 1V, 2V & 4V Auto-Lite & Holley carbs.

If you don't have or know what the suffix is, you're SOL

Post 25: C5TF-B or Y = 1965 F100/250 352 Auto-Lite with M/T / No such thing as C5TF-D

A few more examples:

C5TF-C = 1965 F100/250 352 with A/T.

C5TF-H = 1965/67 F100/350 240 Auto-Lite 1V with A/T.

C5TF-N = 1965/67 F100/500 300 I-6 Auto-Lite 1V with M/T.

C5TF-AH = 1965/69 N500/600 240 I-6 Auto-Lite 1V with M/T.

C5TF-AU = 1965/66 F600/800 361 Holley 2V.

There's at least 30 more C5TF prefixes for other carbs.

 

AdamSR52, Y or B, you wont know the difference. The same carbs also work great on the earlier 292 powere trucks.

 

46yblock, I would be interested in selling the carb, however I double check the carb number and it's not what is on the paper I found in the glover box with other receipts. The Carburetors look alike, but the number is 9AC and may every well be the same. I will a have to research the number. Back to the selling part as soon as I fine suitable replacement with an automatic choke and the wife allows me to buy it. (she thinks I am putting to much money in an old truck, but she did buy me the new radiator for it as a Christmas present.) It's all about the timing when it comes down to the other half. I'll keep in touch. ADAMSR52

 

9AC would make it for a 1969 390 powered car with automatic. The full number would say C9AF C, if tag is present. It would work on the 352 with some proper setup, but would drop gas mileage a little, maybe. And the C9AF C has an automatic choke. Someone may have added a universal mechanical/hand choke, but that is easy to convert back to automatic.