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Need advice on 3-point seat belt

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  #31  
Old 03-27-2014, 08:52 PM
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This is a good reminder I need to stop working on 3 pt engine supports and start working on 3 pt seat belts.
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2016, 10:16 AM
functionoverfashion functionoverfashion is offline
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I am working on this for my new-to-me '61, and I have a question about the upper mount point for the shoulder belt. What do you all think about tapping that plate with threads, rather than using rivets? Is that an extremely hard steel? Or does that seem feasible. I'm only thinking this because I don't have a rivet gun but I do have a tap & die set...

I am also considering just making my own backing plate out of aluminum, because I have a big piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick aluminum that I'm sure I could easily tap. Then I'd just have to bolt the shoulder mount on somehow (I mean, get a nut behind it), because I wouldn't love the threads going into aluminum only.

Thoughts?
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  #33  
Old 04-04-2016, 02:10 PM
James_Western_Canada James_Western_Canada is offline
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You could probably drill & tap the plate, & use countersunk machine screws to attach it (6-32, 8-32, etc), but a riveter, with a small assortment of rivets can be purchased for under $20.00. If you're playing with old vehicles, I can't imagine that a $20.00 outlay would be a deal breaker?? AND, once you own a riveter, you will find uses for it

riveter from Northern Tool + Equipment

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James

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Originally Posted by functionoverfashion View Post
I am working on this for my new-to-me '61, and I have a question about the upper mount point for the shoulder belt. What do you all think about tapping that plate with threads, rather than using rivets? Is that an extremely hard steel? Or does that seem feasible. I'm only thinking this because I don't have a rivet gun but I do have a tap & die set...

I am also considering just making my own backing plate out of aluminum, because I have a big piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick aluminum that I'm sure I could easily tap. Then I'd just have to bolt the shoulder mount on somehow (I mean, get a nut behind it), because I wouldn't love the threads going into aluminum only.

Thoughts?
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  #34  
Old 04-04-2016, 07:49 PM
markeyd markeyd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by functionoverfashion View Post
I am working on this for my new-to-me '61, and I have a question about the upper mount point for the shoulder belt. What do you all think about tapping that plate with threads, rather than using rivets? Is that an extremely hard steel? Or does that seem feasible. I'm only thinking this because I don't have a rivet gun but I do have a tap & die set...

I am also considering just making my own backing plate out of aluminum, because I have a big piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick aluminum that I'm sure I could easily tap. Then I'd just have to bolt the shoulder mount on somehow (I mean, get a nut behind it), because I wouldn't love the threads going into aluminum only.

Thoughts?
Using threads instead of rivets should be fine as long as they stay in place (thread seal). I think the rivets just hold the plate in place and the real function comes from the threaded bolt in the middle. But I am not a seatbelt expert . . . or engineer. That being said I would not make your own backing plate. Just use one made for this purpose. If you look at the backing plates and mounting hardware available from a seatbelt vendor (like seatbelt planet) that sell nothing else but seatbelts you'll see that they offer various grades of mounting hardware. They all look the same but have different strengths for different applications . . . point is that they were engineered a certain way and I wouldn't use just any piece of metal as a backing plate.

EDITED:

I imagine 1/4 inch thick aluminum with a nut and big washer would probably be fine, but who knows (again I am not an engineer), but metal does weird things in a collision when force is applied under high speed conditions . . . I've seen my fair share of collisions and have seen weird things so that is just my 2 cents. You'll probably be fine, . . . especially when the steel B-pillar is not super thick, but I'd just use the product that was made for this purpose and not worry about it.

Also, you can probably make threads because that center hole is threaded.

Hope this helps.
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  #35  
Old 04-04-2016, 07:54 PM
markeyd markeyd is offline
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And don't make the mistake I made: get the retractable seatbelts, not the cheaper ones.
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  #36  
Old 04-04-2016, 10:01 PM
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I concur, use a commercial made and tested support bracket. I think they are $7. My brakets were thick enough to tap and screw. The rivits hold the braket in place and keep it from rattling. The plate behind the corner support will do the work in an accident.


Also, carefully place you holes in the floor so you can use the complete ~2 inch backing washer. The reinforcements under the cab unfourtanely are not in the right spots for mounting the retractors so you have to place the mounting hole carefully. The top mount should be 1-2 inches above your shoulder.


I feel much better now I have 3 pt seat belts for me and my 2 boys. I also added disc brakes and a fully adjustable master cylinder. I think the total for both safety items was around $900. Cheap insurance cosidering what I have invested in the truck and in the precious cargo I drive around in it.
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  #37  
Old 04-05-2016, 10:32 AM
functionoverfashion functionoverfashion is offline
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Thanks for the replies! You're right James that it's not a lot of money to spend when we're talking about an expensive toy... and in particular it's a safety feature. For example, the brakes are OK but not wonderful. I'm going to work on them myself and then have a shop give it a once over before transporting my kiddos around.

I think I've come around to the idea of just using the backing plates that are available online. Partly it doesn't make sense spending 2 hours fabricating something that costs $7. With two young kids and a full-time job, free time is rather tight. Time is money!

Tapping the plates to use a small bolt seems a lot simpler than buying a rivet gun but then again... hmm.

Thanks also for the other tips. I'll update this if I come up with anything brilliant.
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  #38  
Old 04-06-2016, 09:16 AM
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So, I ordered some mounting hardware online yesterday. My friend is giving me some belts from an 80's ford pickup, so my total cost for this will be something like $30.

My 3 year old son asked me this morning, "When can we take the fire truck on the road? And I said "as soon as it's safe, buddy. Soon."
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  #39  
Old 04-06-2016, 10:02 AM
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My 64 does not have seatbelts. If I were to install them though, it would not make any sense to cheap out and use 30 or 40 year old used belts.

Nylon degrades badly after prolonged exposure to sunlight and chemicals, petroleum products etc weakens it severely. Use high quality new belts from a respected manufacturer made with new materials, or why bother?
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