First off, the block you have is one of the better ones. It was the same block used with the CJ/SCJ engines in 1971. It came is 2 bolt and 4 bolt (SCJ) configurations and it has the thick main webs that can be converted to 4 bolts with aftermarket main caps. Some say, with a sonic map, you can bore these blocks to 4.500" or do an .080" overbore without a sonic check. I would tend to think the deck height on this block is 10.300", possibly 10.310" but I doubt it and it is definately not 10.320" deck height.
As you have probably read in other threads here and other forums, outside of the CJ/SCJ and the D2OE PI heads, the D0VE heads are the next bext choice for power and torque. The key to these heads is putting the larger valves in them (2.19 intakes and 1.76 (I think) exhaust). Along with opening the valve throats when you install these valves. I have a set of new Ferrea comp plus intakes and a good used set of Ferrea comp plus exhausts up for grabs and a set of good used silcon wire springs for a hydraulic or flat tappet cam.
The rods might be the 'football' design on the rod bolts or they could be the broached variety. You will have to look and see. The timingh chain set might be the pre-72 or might not be, but you want to get either the pre-72 set or a set that allows you to advance the cam 4 degrees.
If the pistons are dished, then you probably have a 460 crankshaft making the motor a 460.
It sounds like someone built this motor and put it in the 72 model car. If it was the original engine (unless it was a very early into the production year), then would probably have had the D1VE-A2A block or the D1VE-A2B block with the D2VE heads.
Do the heads have guide plates with positive stop screw-in studs with stamped steel rocker arms? Outside chance it was a left over 71 PI engine someone put in the car or maybe Ford.
Cool. I must have gotten a good deal as well. I pick up basically the same engine(less the intake,carb,alternator,p/s pump) for $150. It is stuck and probably needs an over bore. Mine's a 429, broached rods(square head bolts) flat top 2 valve relief 429 pistons and this engine has never been apart.
You can get D0VE-A and D1VE-AA blocks pretty cheap, you just have to dig for them. Seen one at wrecking yard the other day, block, crank, D6 rods and standard pistion. The sad thing about it was the wrecking yard was going to send it out as scrap, I asked them how much for it and they said 40.00 bucks, so there out there, just have to dig!
I've always like Tom Monroe's 'How To Rebuild Your Ford V8 351C, 300M, 400, 429,460'. It provides all the torque values, clearances and just about everything you need to rebuild the 385. He has some mistakes in the interchange section, but its a very handy book for anyone who likes these engines. I believe the online store on this site stocks it.
I finally got started tearing this engine down. The dove-c heads look great. Screwed in studs, and it looks like only one is leaking. (I am going to have them machined anyway) The pistons in the block have two valve reliefs in them. They were all carboned over and one had oil on the top. (The leaky valve's piston of course.) By having the screw in studs already, what would be involved to switch over to the roller rockers? Will I still need machine work to do it right? I haven't gotten to the crank yet. So I am still unsure if I have a 460 crank or a 429 crank. The piston walls looked to be in very good shape. Any suggestions on the best set up as far a rockers? i.e. brand, supplier, part numbers... (sorry for the long post).
I've used a couple of sets of Harland Sharpe roller rockers with no problems. Jegs and Summit carry them for about $200.
You will need guideplates, use 3/8" guideplates and push rods. Don't buy the push rods until you have the heads done, on the block and can use a push rod length checker to determine what length you need. Most people have .125" taken off the rocker seats to compensate for the guide plates, about $35 when they're at the machine shop.
Consider a new set of ARP rocker studs for your assembly. The original studs are 30+ years old and $40 is cheap insurance.