Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Who needs a speedometer anyway

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  #16  
Old 04-22-2010, 03:22 PM
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I am curious to know the outcome of this ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
I am curious to know the outcome of this ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
So am I.


-Matt
 
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:28 PM
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Pulled the Tcase today. I had to pull the entire thing anyway to replace the gasket between the tranny and Tcase, and I'm also going to pull the tranny and replace the clutch.

Anyway, I have removed the yoke and seal, and now... I can't figure out how to get the drive gear off. If it's like the bw1356 linked above, there's a retaining clip behind the gear that will be a PITA to remove and replace.

And yes, the gear is SHOT.

-Matt
 
  #19  
Old 05-10-2010, 05:37 PM
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Update: It pulled right off!

Now the green gear is stuck on a metal collar. I'm guessing they separate but i'm not for certain here. The collor/gear unit came off as one piece.
 
  #20  
Old 05-10-2010, 09:42 PM
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The green gear is hot melted to the collar do not remove!

The replacement should look exactly the same except maybe different color (i doubt it though)

Did you have to pull the back of the TC off, or were you able to get the gear out by just pulling the yoke and seal???

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
  #21  
Old 05-11-2010, 01:04 AM
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Pull the yoke, then the seal, then an o-ring, and then the collar and gear will slide right off.
 
  #22  
Old 05-11-2010, 01:23 AM
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so lemonshindig when i do my ball joints and tie rods you coming up?lol i have jack for steering and suspension repair experience.bein you seem to like to tinker.
 
  #23  
Old 05-11-2010, 03:58 AM
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Mebbe a stupid question, but I gotta ask...is it possible to grease the speedo cable?

I ask 'cuz the truck we just bought, well, the speedo does nothing until the latter half of 4th gear and then it jumps up to 35 and starts bouncing.

Same issue (the gears) or something else?
 
  #24  
Old 05-11-2010, 12:15 PM
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You can remove the cable from the truck, then pull the center cable from the sheath. Soak a rag in ATF and drag the cable through it. Also make sure you dont have any sharp curves in the routing of the cable as that is usually the cause of a bouncing needle.
 
  #25  
Old 05-11-2010, 01:55 PM
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Well this is odd. I noticed that some of the bolts on the crossmember didn't match, suggesting it had been toyed with before. Then when i got the gear out, it's a 6 tooth.

I found a gear calculator online, and apparently I should have an 8 tooth drive gear with an 18 tooth driven, 3.55 gears, and 235/85/r16 tires. So I'm guessing the transfer case has been swaped out and the PO ignored swapping the speedo gear. That might explain the wear, if the threads are opposite on the gears. Anyway, a new gear is like $65, so I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow.

Rupe, I'm already in Spokane for the summer. All of this carnage is taking place on 14th off of Adams.
 
  #26  
Old 05-11-2010, 04:22 PM
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This is what Ford gave me ... Same package as you. 235/85-16, 3.55.

EOTZ-17285-C - 7T Drive Gear, $26.35
CODZ-17271-A - 16T Driven Gear, $3.03

Lot of work for another junk gear.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
  #27  
Old 05-11-2010, 09:42 PM
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I want to see how this ends up. I might have to do this.
 
  #28  
Old 05-11-2010, 10:55 PM
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For $65, it better be a steel gear. Ford bought me a steel gear for my mustang after ordering the wrong plastic one 5 times.
 
  #29  
Old 05-12-2010, 08:01 AM
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They are plastic.

Drive gear is plastic on a steel collar.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
  #30  
Old 05-12-2010, 11:56 AM
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Some of them are steel now though, hence the $65 price tag I would think it would be a steel gear as the plastic ones only cost around $20. It was a fiasco trying to get that drive gear for the toploader in my 67 mustang. The parts guy at ford was so tired of me coming in and saying "nope, wrong one" that they splurged and gave me a steel gear. I never knew how much it cost since they didn't charge me for it.
 


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