Ok, bad news.. I just went to take a run to the office and a lot of stuff in my truck does not work.

Doesn't work:
Radio, power windows, dome light, door open or lights on bell, 4x4(but I head the hubs moving), gauges.

Does work:
Door locks, power mirrors, all exterior lights, wipers, heater/blower, cluster lights, cig lighter.

I checked fuses, didn't find any blown ones.

We just had a heavy rain storm with lots of wind. My windows were open a crack but I have vent visors, no signs of water on the dash or seats(it's been snowy so my huskyliners are wet. I suppose it's possible some rain got in. Worst thing is it's cold and my windows are open a crack!

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have a lot of work to do tomorrow and won't be able to go to the dealer until Friday at the earliest.

-Jay

 

Does the horn work?
If not one of your batteries could be bad. The horn draws a lot of amps. So, if it sounds funny or does not work. Then it is time to buy 2 new batteries. Assuming you have a diesel.

 

Has nothing to do with the batteries. Most of those things are powered by a computer or module. Water leaks have caused havok with these modules. This may be your problem. I would check fuses in the truck and under the hood first..


Dick

 

99f350sd, I'm sure you mean everything is controlled by a computer or module. I can assure you everything is powered by the batteries.

 

Ok, I took it to the dealer.. I can't be without the truck. Luckily I got a good tech. He came out and showed me the schematics he had.

Turns out everything that's not working is powered by one breaker behind the fuse box. This breaker is not getting power. There are a couple relays involved in getting power to this breaker. The one that is most likely bad he's having trouble physically locating, he thinks it's actually inside the instrument cluster, and that did seem logical based on the diagrams he shared with me.

It escaped me at the time, but all the things that don't work are the things that stay on when you turn the ignition off as long as you don't open the door. I still don't know WHY it failed, but at least we have a good general idea of what's wrong.

Thanks for the replies.

-Jay

 

They only stay on for the delay .He may be looking for the accessory delay relayor battery saver relay as its called sometimes.
Did the dash get totally soaked with water?
Its my understanding that this is not a changeable relay the whole instrument cluster has to be changed if the relay is bad(k115)
Rich

 

Thanks for the clarification...


Dick

 

Yep.. that's what he was thinkin.. the one that's in the cluster. Dash was NOT soaked.. in fact I couldn't really find any trace of water other than on the floor mats.

I'm hopin it's warranty but we'll see. I did leave the window open after all.

-Jay

 

Jay - Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I am having the same problem I think, The other day I went out to start my truck before work and all it did was click at me. So off I went and dropped 140 on a couple of batteries seemed everything was fine till last night when my anti-lock light came on shortly after that my radio went out, a few minutes later my gages dropped to nothing then at stop lights my climate control went out at the same time as my airbag light came on. So I thought maybe shutting off my truck and restarting it would help. Well then I needed a jump and everything was normal for about 10 minutes and it started all over. When I got home I put it on the charger and when it was done I checked the voltage at the batteries and it was 12.3 VDC I then proceeded to start the truck and watched the voltage drop to 8.2 VDC this makes me think I have a bad alternator. The funny thing is that every other light besides the battery light was on as a matter of fact the battery light never came on. So what good is the Batt light when the only time it lights up is immediatly when I turn the key to on?? Or do I have another problem that is not letting my alternator charge the battery??

TIA - Chris

 

Battery voltage during charge or running should be near 14.5 volts with a good battery. A good battery fully charged and the surface charge removed should be about 12.5 volts. You need to get that fixed first.


Dick

 

OP: Your problem deffinitely sounds like a charging system problem. I was not having a voltage problem at all.. truck running was around 14.4v. My problem WAS the accessory delay relay and it was replaced under warranty. I never needed a jump, I never had a problem starting. We deffinitely have different problems.

Good luck.

-Jay

 

I'm bumping this to the top. Oil-Pig, I'm having the same problem as you, did you find the problem? I just bought two new batteries and an alternator about 9 months ago. Wondering if you got your rig fixed? Thanks.